Shift console broke

[The Dark Side of Will]

Anyone who's done it know if the "shift rod joint" at the transmission can be replaced without removing the T-case? I was able to remove the shift support rod/shift console with the T-case in place.

I need to order parts, and need to know if I should order a replacement Trans to T-case guibo as well.

[The Dark Side of Will]

Thanks! I need to snap a pic of the end result as well... it's even holier than this ;)

My T-case bushing is basically destroyed, so I need to add one of those to my parts list.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=27_0001

[Eskie]

Dear god, that is beautiful. I just took a angle grinder to mine. ;D

[The Dark Side of Will]

Found a cutter to use to clearance the flywheel dust cover for the thicker guibo upgrade to the front driveshaft & diff.





Took it down 0.240 in 0.060 cuts... I was being very careful because I wasn't very sure of the way we had the part clamped down.



This *did* open up a hole into the clutch space... we'll see what I end up doing about it. Maybe nothing. If there's enough clearance to the bolt heads with the new guibo, maybe duct tape.
The hole opened up on the last pass, so cutting it down 0.180 would not have opened the hole.
Also, there was a helicoil in the affected bellhousing bolt hole... not sure what that means, other than that it made interesting noises as we cut it.

[The Dark Side of Will]

I was noticing while removing it that my T-case mount bushing is completely trashed and was wondering if that put enough repetitive strain on the part to cause a fatigue failure. The fracture surface does indicate a fatigue failure.

[AudioNToxication]

I bought a DSSR from UUC then bought a new shift coupler, milled it down to fit the correct width and put a oiled metal bushing in it.
its been working great ever since.
That said in order to get that to fit i did slightly grind the shift console right around where yours broke.
That said i would suspect wheel hop or drivetrain bouncing to have broken the part you have.
what kind of shape is the transfer case mount in?

[The Dark Side of Will]

Found the thread on using the rear Guibo in the front: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=280972

I didn't realize that the rear part of the pan was just a fancy flywheel dust cover... I can do the clearancing operation in a mill this weekend for that oh-so-sexy machined finish.

Dssr is worth it. Replace the selector joint while you're at it, the bushings should last longer too.

I've been wanting to try making one from 1/8" wall 1" square tubing. That sure beats $80 for something that's ten times as hard to make as it needs to be.

I have the Z3 1.9 shifter. A previous owner glued the shift knob to the shifter, so I can't get it off, and the boot is basically shredded. That means I need a new boot and new knob. The rubber bellows below the shifter boot is also shredded, so I need a new one of those. The best price I've been able to find for the shift console is ~$140... With all that plus guibos and a mirror glass, I'm at $250 for this round of repairs without the DSSR.

[nando]

Dssr is worth it. Replace the selector joint while you're at it, the bushings should last longer too.

[The Dark Side of Will]

Three hours later:



A previous owner appears to have glued the knob to the shifter. <Sigh> I had to bring it out the top.

Getting it out took about three hours. I had to separate the cat-back from the catalyst. The catalyst had been welded to the headers during a previous owner's header installation.

I tried doing the job without separating the rear driveshaft, but I saw how the guibo was getting twisted up as I was lowering the back of the transfer case and decided I needed to take the rear driveshaft loose. The rear U-joint is worn out and needs to be replaced anyway.

I found that I needed to take the front driveshaft out in order to fit my hand far enough up into the trans tunnel to remove the pivot pin that secures the shift console at the transmission end. At least I can check my splines.

Does anyone have the part number for the thicker guibo and associated centering pin for the front driveshaft? I replaced the rear guibo when I replaced the gas tank, so it's ok. I haven't touched the front, and it looks like it's been bombed.

Here's the parts list I'm working on:

From: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=25_0074

01	SHIFTING ARM					1		09/1989	25111220606	$37.80
02	Bearing sleeve, round		L=26MM		1	06/1986	09/1989	25117519669	$11.92		
07	Rubber boot					1		09/1989	25111221214	$24.07
11	Plastic washer			10X16X0,9	2	06/1986	09/1989	25111220439	$0.25	
13	Gear lever cover		SCHWARZ		1		09/1989	25111220204	$31.91
01	Gear shift knob plastic/5-speed	SCHWARZ		1	09/1987		25111434495	$24.50

From: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=26_0040

10	UNIVERSAL JOINT			LK=78MM/10	1			26201701094	$57.29
13	Covering cap					1			26201226007	$6.55
17	Gasket ring			38X3		1			26201701106	$0.61

[The Dark Side of Will]

So... this happened:



#1 here:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=25_0074


I have the Z3 1.9 shifter from my wrecked E34 (already removed) which I can recycle into this application.

What reasonably priced DSSR shifters are on the market?

Garagistic has one that's iX specific: https://store.garagistic.com/e30-325ix-dssr-190mm
Has anyone here used it?

The shift console has to be replaced anyway... I can drop in a $40 part, use my Z3 shifter and be on my way.

The Z3 shifter worked fine in the E34 and I thought it was a nice sporting setup for a daily driver. I'm having a hard time justifying spending $80 on the DSSR and another $40 or so on the "rod joint" at the transmission, in addition to the $40 for the shift console.

Of course there's always AKG... :devil: https://www.akgmotorsport.com/produc...30-m3-325-318/