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Ground control & strut housing modifications

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  • dirtyEthirtyIX
    replied
    Welp just bought some 8610 1436 for up front

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  • dirtyEthirtyIX
    replied
    So I'll need to return the sports and buy some koni races if I want to go really low? Can the sports be run if I'm not going too low? I'd like a .75" drop total. Nando you should open a ix helpline so we can just call you with our IX problems.

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  • nando
    replied
    there's no travel up front unless you shorten the housings. I mean, you basically can't really lower the car at all and have acceptable ride quality. I don't think the race inserts even cost all that much more.

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  • dirtyEthirtyIX
    replied
    Sports on all for corners.

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  • Chrisbike
    replied
    Originally posted by dirtyEthirtyIX View Post
    Since I'm not going super low I should be fine with the sports right?
    If your talking rear yeah most likely. I'm not certain but I think the rears are the same between sport and race besides valving

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  • dirtyEthirtyIX
    replied
    Originally posted by Chrisbike View Post
    This is what I got from ground control, Koni SA's. Just in case they cross reference or whatever.

    8641-1547SPGC Ground Control Custom Valved Koni Strut Insert, Top Adjust
    8041-1289SPGC Ground Control Custom Valved Koni Rear Shock, Top Adjust
    Since I'm not going super low I should be fine with the sports right?

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  • dirtyEthirtyIX
    replied
    Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
    Doesn't even need to be chomoly. I have repaired many strut tubes and just use 2"x1.20" wall tubing. The tap I bought (48mm x 1.50) was about three hundred bucks, not exactly a one time use item, though.
    What do you charge for a service like that? I found a tap for 80$ but figured I'd need 2 just get one strut threaded. I also have some question about my 2.8l build as far as the crank bolt and washer are concerned, I already have a crank spacer you made. But a recent post on r3v fb mention the washer needing to be shaved down to 1.25mm

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  • Chrisbike
    replied
    Originally posted by dirtyEthirtyIX View Post
    What rear struts did you use?
    This is what I got from ground control, Koni SA's. Just in case they cross reference or whatever.

    8641-1547SPGC Ground Control Custom Valved Koni Strut Insert, Top Adjust
    8041-1289SPGC Ground Control Custom Valved Koni Rear Shock, Top Adjust

    Leave a comment:


  • dirtyEthirtyIX
    replied
    Originally posted by AWDBOB View Post
    IMO I would not section your new housings. Those things are so expensive and it'll kill the value. I want to say I shortened my housings 2.1" but I'm not certain on that. I was using the race insert. Grab some rwd housings and hack the sleeves off and have your fabricator weld those onto your knuckles at the desired height. And yes I'm pretty sure you can just use the "M3 style swaybar mounts" that garagsitic sells so it's less cutting. They're slightly different but I'm pretty sure they'll work one in the same.

    If you're using regular iX Konis you don't have to section anything and can just hack the perch off and weld the new GC speech/ring on.

    Edit:

    The Konis I used are 2.1" shorter than standard iX struts, so that is the length you'd need to shorten your housings.

    P/N: 8610-1436race

    Also, when ordering these struts you need to order special Koni gland nuts with them too, as they don't come with them since they're not actually iX struts.

    P/N for gland nuts:

    73.25.01.003.1 (M48 x 1.50)
    What rear struts did you use?

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  • dirtyEthirtyIX
    replied
    I sourced some strut housings to cut up locally!

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  • ForcedFirebird
    replied
    Originally posted by dirtyEthirtyIX View Post
    Couldn't I buy some chromoly tube and have one end threaded to 48x1.50?
    Doesn't even need to be chomoly. I have repaired many strut tubes and just use 2"x1.20" wall tubing. The tap I bought (48mm x 1.50) was about three hundred bucks, not exactly a one time use item, though.

    Leave a comment:


  • dirtyEthirtyIX
    replied
    Couldn't I buy some chromoly tube and have one end threaded to 48x1.50?

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  • nando
    replied
    yeah, keep the new housings - use the rusty ones to build your new struts.

    My original housings were mint, and I regret cutting them up. My second set used the rusty housings from my parts car, definitely the way to go.

    Leave a comment:


  • AWDBOB
    replied
    IMO I would not section your new housings. Those things are so expensive and it'll kill the value. I want to say I shortened my housings 2.1" but I'm not certain on that. I was using the race insert. Grab some rwd housings and hack the sleeves off and have your fabricator weld those onto your knuckles at the desired height. And yes I'm pretty sure you can just use the "M3 style swaybar mounts" that garagsitic sells so it's less cutting. They're slightly different but I'm pretty sure they'll work one in the same.

    If you're using regular iX Konis you don't have to section anything and can just hack the perch off and weld the new GC speech/ring on.

    Edit:

    The Konis I used are 2.1" shorter than standard iX struts, so that is the length you'd need to shorten your housings.

    P/N: 8610-1436race

    Also, when ordering these struts you need to order special Koni gland nuts with them too, as they don't come with them since they're not actually iX struts.

    P/N for gland nuts:

    73.25.01.003.1 (M48 x 1.50)
    Last edited by AWDBOB; 03-28-2018, 01:42 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • dirtyEthirtyIX
    replied
    No I saved them. So I can just have the perches and sway bar welded on and at the stock height and I'm good to go? Awesome! At least I have a set to fall back on now in case something happens.

    Leave a comment:

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