Ground control & strut housing modifications
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So I'll need to return the sports and buy some koni races if I want to go really low? Can the sports be run if I'm not going too low? I'd like a .75" drop total. Nando you should open a ix helpline so we can just call you with our IX problems.Leave a comment:
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there's no travel up front unless you shorten the housings. I mean, you basically can't really lower the car at all and have acceptable ride quality. I don't think the race inserts even cost all that much more.Leave a comment:
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Since I'm not going super low I should be fine with the sports right?Leave a comment:
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What do you charge for a service like that? I found a tap for 80$ but figured I'd need 2 just get one strut threaded. I also have some question about my 2.8l build as far as the crank bolt and washer are concerned, I already have a crank spacer you made. But a recent post on r3v fb mention the washer needing to be shaved down to 1.25mmLeave a comment:
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This is what I got from ground control, Koni SA's. Just in case they cross reference or whatever.
8641-1547SPGC Ground Control Custom Valved Koni Strut Insert, Top Adjust
8041-1289SPGC Ground Control Custom Valved Koni Rear Shock, Top AdjustLeave a comment:
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What rear struts did you use?IMO I would not section your new housings. Those things are so expensive and it'll kill the value. I want to say I shortened my housings 2.1" but I'm not certain on that. I was using the race insert. Grab some rwd housings and hack the sleeves off and have your fabricator weld those onto your knuckles at the desired height. And yes I'm pretty sure you can just use the "M3 style swaybar mounts" that garagsitic sells so it's less cutting. They're slightly different but I'm pretty sure they'll work one in the same.
If you're using regular iX Konis you don't have to section anything and can just hack the perch off and weld the new GC speech/ring on.
Edit:
The Konis I used are 2.1" shorter than standard iX struts, so that is the length you'd need to shorten your housings.
P/N: 8610-1436race
Also, when ordering these struts you need to order special Koni gland nuts with them too, as they don't come with them since they're not actually iX struts.
P/N for gland nuts:
73.25.01.003.1 (M48 x 1.50)Leave a comment:
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Doesn't even need to be chomoly. I have repaired many strut tubes and just use 2"x1.20" wall tubing. The tap I bought (48mm x 1.50) was about three hundred bucks, not exactly a one time use item, though.Leave a comment:
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Couldn't I buy some chromoly tube and have one end threaded to 48x1.50?Leave a comment:
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yeah, keep the new housings - use the rusty ones to build your new struts.
My original housings were mint, and I regret cutting them up. My second set used the rusty housings from my parts car, definitely the way to go.Leave a comment:
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IMO I would not section your new housings. Those things are so expensive and it'll kill the value. I want to say I shortened my housings 2.1" but I'm not certain on that. I was using the race insert. Grab some rwd housings and hack the sleeves off and have your fabricator weld those onto your knuckles at the desired height. And yes I'm pretty sure you can just use the "M3 style swaybar mounts" that garagsitic sells so it's less cutting. They're slightly different but I'm pretty sure they'll work one in the same.
If you're using regular iX Konis you don't have to section anything and can just hack the perch off and weld the new GC speech/ring on.
Edit:
The Konis I used are 2.1" shorter than standard iX struts, so that is the length you'd need to shorten your housings.
P/N: 8610-1436race
Also, when ordering these struts you need to order special Koni gland nuts with them too, as they don't come with them since they're not actually iX struts.
P/N for gland nuts:
73.25.01.003.1 (M48 x 1.50)Last edited by AWDBOB; 03-28-2018, 12:42 PM.Leave a comment:
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No I saved them. So I can just have the perches and sway bar welded on and at the stock height and I'm good to go? Awesome! At least I have a set to fall back on now in case something happens.Leave a comment:

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