-
jesus tapdancing christ, this is the greatest rebuild thread i've ever seen. someone sticky this! -
Holy shit, I'm in love.
Makes me want to throw the 3.73 open back on and take a crack at rebuilding the S3.73.Leave a comment:
-
Im leaving the house right now to play the lottery.
Im going to win the lottery.
Then Im going to open a shop with you to build cars...
Lovely work, keep it up.
ZMLeave a comment:
-
and ta-daaaaa.....
With the box overhauled it was time to turn the attention to the outside
bit's and pieces. First up, gearlinkage. When I got this car the gear change
resembled stirring a bowl of porridge with a large wooden spoon, it
was vague to say the least. I changed one little bit of the linkage
at the time, which helped, but I knew there was more to fix at some
stage. So now the day has come.
Theres 4 places where the linkage can get worn, and my car proving
as helpful as ever was w*nked in all 4 places......
position 1
This bit is probably familiar to most e30 owners as it's the bit
that wears most. It's cheap enough from the main dealer (p/n 25117503525)
and it's handy enough to change.......
Position 2
Was a bit surprised to find so much wear here. The bolt had
started to chew it's way through the bracket. Elongating the hole
and wearing down the bolt....
Position 4
This is the little ball the the gearlever rotates on. As the ball is metal
it doesn't wear, but the plastic bushing it sits in does.
New bushing main dealer p/n 25111220600......
Position 3
The little bush just under the ball on the gearlever.....
as you can see in the exploded part of the pic theres only a small
bit of wear here, but it doesn't take much to make the lever feel
sloppy. Theres no bush to change here, the only remedy is a new
gear lever. Thankfully I had a spare Z3 one which was good to go....
So, rob the post office on the way to the main dealer's......
Z3 lever fitted.....
new rubber bush in the end of the stabilizer bar as it was worn too....
fresh bracket and bolt fitted onto the new bush....
and then time to fit back the lower link. Two new plastic washers
fitted on the inside (p/n 25111220439 they're important and they're
also the cheapest part you'll ever buy from a main dealer)......
pop the link bar back in one end, with another plastic washer on the
outside before refitting the circlip........
slide in the other end of the link........
pop another fresh washer on......
and then the circlip......
If them circlips are loose sliding on, then replace them, there should
be a tight "click" as they pop on. If they fall off down the line, you'll
loose the ability to change gear, and it won't happen close to home,
it'll be in the middle of nowhere, it'll be dark and raining and you'll
be the tight arse fool walking back up the road, in pitch black darkness
looking for a lost clip that you were to tight to change. (yes, I wore that t-shirt).
And then finally, rebolt the stabilizer bracket to the box with the
two long bolts that are a pig to get to when the box is fitted in the car....
after that, reverse light switch goes back in with a new washer....
wires attached.....
and clipped on here.....
and here....
before magically reappearing inside the rubber boot.....
(the wires in the above picture were the old ones and since
fitting them and posting this up I've had a very helpful pm
from a member over on E30zone to say that the old wires can
short out due to age and in his case actually cause a fire.
The wires are now being renewed tomorrow.)
There was something not quite right about the geabox rubber
mountings, but I just couldn't put my finger on it.....
so I replaced them to be on the safe side....
bellhousing bolted back on along with the little bracket to support
the exhaust downpipe......
clutch fork, retaining spring and clutch release bearing back on.....
a lick of silver paint.....
and thats a brief description of how we overhauled my gearbox.
If you've made it this far, congratulations, most of what you've just
read is probably wrong. But sure there was nothing better on tv
anyway.
Till next time.......Leave a comment:
-
and then finally the last one's, again a ball between the two shafts and
the final one sits on top of its spring and is depressed in it's recess
to let the shaft by (at this stage you'll either be a pro at
this or have set fire to the garage out of rage, if you look carefully
you might just notice the fire extinguisher fumes in the background
of this pic).....
when you've finally succumbed to the rage and decided to beat them all into
place with the sledgehammer this is where all the balls should end up
(red circles = the balls, blue circles = the end of the selector shafts)........
when they're all in place and all the rods are covering them, the casing
can be tapped the final half inch home. Then the collection of 5 little
plugs can be tapped back in, to cover all them drilling's in the casing.....
Then it's on to the bearing support ring and them two long m6 bolts
sticking out the back. The five bolts get a wee dab of thread lock....
The 2 long m6 studs sticking out the back should have kept
all the holes aligned allowing you to fit 3 of them into the 3 empty holes
,finger tight, and then the two long bolts are taken out and replaced
by the other 2 proper bolts......
When they're all in then tighten them up evenly.
Front casing is nowhere near as dramatic. Stick the gasket on with
some gasket goo either side, heat the centre of it up so it sides on
easily over the bearings and then just batter it on.....
When it's on this little collection of crap.....
is battered into this hole,
professionally......
After that the rear output flange goes on. A little gasket goo rubbed
on the inside of the splines helps keep it oil tight.....
special tool p/n 959rustybar makes a return to hold the flange while
the nut in the centre is torqued up.....
The nut no longer needs that brass type lock ring placed over it
next, as the factory revised the procedure to just use loctite on the
nut instead.
After that and it's back to the front end to do the final bit of measuring
and shimming.
The spacer ring is first slipped onto the bit of the input shaft bearing
thats sticking out.....
followed by the circlip that snaps into the recess cut in the
outside of the bearing.....
when all thats fitted, a few soft taps inwards on the end of the input
shaft to make sure it's fully home. (that circlip should be tight up against
the spacer ring, which in turn should be tight up against the housing.
With that done the little cover thats going to go over these bearings is
preped. The cone/tube "thingy" that the clutch release bearing rides on
(black yoke below) fits into the cover....
a tiny smear of gasket goo on the cover where the cone sits into
to keep it oil tight. The cone also has a notch on it so it'll only
sit in fully in one position....
with that in, the input shaft seal is fitted in to it (30x42x7mm, big money
from main dealer for some reason, available for buttons aftermarket)......
and then the measuring. The idea of this cover is that the 2 bearings
will sit into the two recesses in the cover. The recesses have to be
shimed so that when the cover is bolted on tight theres no wiggle
room left for the bearings. So to figure out what size shims are needed
first up we measured the depth from the face of the cover to the bottom
of the hole (the face of the cone/tube thingy)......
and that came out at 7.1mm, and then measured how much bearing
was sticking out of the box......
and that came out at 6.8mm.
So, from the hole depth..........................7.1mm
take away the bearing height...................6.8mm
and you get the size of shim needed ........0.3mm
Only theres one other thing to take into account,
that cover may have a gasket (some do, some don't)
and when you fit a gasket it brings the cover back another
tiny bit away from the bearing. So the manual says add
another 0.2mm for the thickness of the gasket.
So now the hole is..........7.3mm
minus bearing height.......6.8mm
equals shim thickness.....0.5mm
Same sort of deal for the bottom hole/bearing.
Measure the recess.......
That came to 5.2mm, and then measure how much the
bearing protrudes......
which came out at 4.7mm
So once again,
hole depth............................................. .....5.2mm
plus the bit for the gasket..........................0.2mm
equals............................................ .............5.4mm
minus the amount the bearing sticks out....4.7mm
leaves you with the shim size needed........0.7mm
Only it doesn't, because the manual says this bottom shaft
needs 0.1/0.2mm endfloat. Which means it needs a little space
to move around and stretch it's feet. So from the shim size of
0.7mm (which would have packed it tight) you subtract 0.1mm
to leave the true shim needed at 0.6mm (now the shaft has 0.1mm
of space to move around in as speced).
And if you understood all that, fair play to you, cause i'm writing it
and it's making fu*k all sense to me as I read it back.
Anywho, gasket goo'ed on, shims greased in place, it's time to throw
the cover on....
7 little bolts, 3 long for the top, 4 short for the bottom, get them the
wrong way around and the long ones will screw in the bottom
and right through the casing and burst your bearing inside, which
is nice.....
Last edited by xworks; 02-27-2011, 04:51 AM.Leave a comment:
-
One of the final things to go on the shaft is the last of the bigger
main bearings. But before it can go on we needed to do a bit of
measuring with it first. The bearing will be fitted on the shaft and
when the rear casing is offered up and pushed on it will sit inside this
recess in the casing.....
and this support ring will bolt it tight into that recess inside the box....
if you just dropped the bearing into the casing recess and bolted on
the cover above what you'll find is that it doesn't clamp the bearing
real tight in there. The bearing will actually be able to move back
and forth a little. So what you've got to do is measure how much
"slack" is in there and pack it up with shims so that the support ring
clamps the bearing tight when bolted up.
To do this first we measured the depth of the recess in the casing
(13.1mm).....
and then fitted the bearing into the support ring.....
and measured how much stuck out (12.9mm)......
13.1mm of a hole minus 12.9mm of a bearing to stick into it is
going to leave you with 0.2mm of a gap in there, so, a 0.2mm shim
is fitted under the bearing before it's sat into the support ring like so.....
Now when all that is bolted together, that bearing is going to be
clamped nice and secure between the ring and the casing.
With the shims figured out and fitted between the bearing and the
ring, the bearing could now be slid onto the shaft.
The heads are cut off two long m6 bolts and these are screwed in to
two of the five threaded holes of the support ring, for reasons you'll
see in a while.....
centre of the bearing is heated with the heat gun and slid onto the shaft.....
and finally this little spacer is slid on.....
After that it's time to get the rear casing ready for going on.
Output flange seal is changed
(available after market for buttons, size: 40x55x8mm)......
and then the selector shaft seal (size:15x21x5mm).....
and then refit the reverse idler shaft stuff.....
the shaft sticks up out of the rear casing and onto it is dropped, bearing,
spacer,bearing.....
followed by the idler geared shaft.....
and then a fat little spacer with a corner cut out.....
As usual the cut out piece has to be in a specific location when the
rear casing is offered up to the box and the chances of it staying as
pictured when you lift the whole lot up is zero to none.
So, fat blob of grease on the back of the spacer and stick it in place in
the box instead....
The 2nd last thing needed in the rear casing before it can go on, is this....
There's five of these balls and three springs in total for the rear casing,
only one spring is needed at the moment, and it slides in through
a little drilling in the casing marked by the green arrow.
(you can just about see the spring in place, red arrow).....
And finally just before the rear casing is offered up,
bit of gasket poo and gasket is stuck to centre casing side....
And then just as your ready to offer the rear casing up, these 4 little
roller/spacer thingies (*may not be correct technical name)
are stuck into place on the selector shaft with the aid of four
blobs of grease....
don't be shy with the grease on those, the little fu*kers love to drop off
and head off for a wander while your shoving the rear casing on.
And then at long last the rear casing can be offered up,
but, it can only go on this far (because that'd be far to simple).....
quick check to make sure them 2 little m6 bolts that were screwed
into the bearing ring have come through the casing in the right place.....
and then the reason why the casing can't slide all the way home yet.
That little spring is in the way of the selector fork rod sitting into
it's final resting place.....
So, one of the little balls like pictured below is placed on top of the
spring in the casing and is pushed back into it's hole to let the rod by......
that sounds so simple when written, but in reality can provided hours
of entertainment for all the family. And when you've mastered
that one, it's on to the one next door, same idea, spring drops down
from the top into place, ball on top and squeeze down to allow the
next rod to push through, and, as if that wasn't challenging enough
you've also got to place a ball directly between the two selector shafts aswell
(that ball is hidden in this pic, the final pic in this sequence makes it a little
easier to see where they all end up!)......
Leave a comment:
Leave a comment: