OEM BMW paint for restoration?

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  • nmlss2006
    E30 Modder
    • Aug 2006
    • 910

    #31
    I do not see a problem in matching the OE color as it came from the factory, any decent paint shop will be able to do that. AFAIK the laws about solvent-based-paints are global (well, Europe+NAFTA anyways).

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    • dirtysix
      E30 Modder
      • Aug 2006
      • 806

      #32
      Solvent based is all good down here.
      It is a lot softer and less durable than 2part paints/clears.
      sigpic

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      • sixsixii
        Wrencher
        • Jun 2009
        • 273

        #33
        Originally posted by dirtysix
        Solvent based is all good down here.
        It is a lot softer and less durable than 2part paints/clears.
        Is it? My 20 year old metallic oem paint + clear is x2 stronger than my 2 year old paint! Durability of the new paints is questionable, to say the least.

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        • koole30
          Noobie
          • Jan 2010
          • 28

          #34
          Six you might be comparing apples to oranges...there are different quality of clear coats out there PPG, (AKZO)Sikkens, Dupont are about the top of the line and in those lines they have different levels of quality. The clear coat is the most important item in a paint job with regards to longevity (there currently is not a water base clear). To be safe stick with PPG 4010, or Sikkens.

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          • deansbimmer
            Mod Crazy
            • Feb 2005
            • 674

            #35
            You won't be using waterbase, so people should stop discussing it here. Waterbase doesn't mean its any less durable. Its quite good. Its an "green, eco friendly" modern solution for oem/high production, blah blah..meh

            10+ years durability rules out single stage. Modern single stage is good but not that good. SS will never look like a nice wet two stage application. Hello Maaco..

            BC/CC is your option, and you'll find PPG or Dupont will probably be your best option as you can find them anywhere, as opposed to sikkens, Glasurit, etc. (may be different in Canada). I use PPG because that's what is sold near me. Dupont and others have great paint too, but to an extent its a ford/chevy decision. Shops that use one or the other usually use it because they get better service or pricing. Color matching by paint codes is just fine you're doing a full repaint. If you're repairing a section or painting a single panel to match the originally applied paint then you can still match by code and hardly notice any difference in most colors.

            Paint coverage depends on the model line you choose. Higher solids = better hiding and therefore quicker coverage. To paint the car yourself you'll need around 3 quarts to get good coverage, (a gallon to be safe and have leftovers if you're doing an Mtech II set or lots of other trim) or a little less with good paint. A gallon of clear will give you enough to do 4 or 5 coats. Buy some REAL filler (not walmart bondo), some 2k primer/sealer and lots of solvents, cleaners, and prep materials, and a couple books on how to paint your own car since it sounds like you might could use some help. Go to an English Color or other local paint store and they'll help you.
            Last edited by deansbimmer; 05-31-2010, 10:56 PM.

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