Radiator support replacement project with pics

[Just Scott]

I started this about 8:30am this morning, took a break from 10-12:30 and was showered in time to watch the playoffs at 3:30pm.

The driver's side took some time, feeling my way through it. The passenger side took about 30 minutes from start to finish.

Tools used: Reciprocating saw, 4-1/2" grinder, Harbor Freight spot weld cutter, hammer and flat blade screwdriver (or chisel).

Take your time when using the spot weld cutter. Pop a mark with a punch, drill the center a little and then hold on to the drill. I found that putting a screwdriver between the panels would pop them apart as soon as it cut through. Learned that after I drilled straight through the one - oops. It's a pretty handy tool for $5.

While its this far apart, it will get a new timing belt, gaskets, hoses, general degrease, etc... Should make it a whole lot easier with this much access. The hood is safely stored in the master bedroom. The Missus wasn't too shocked, been keeping parts in there for years...

[Just Scott]

pics

[Just Scott]

I sent the following out in an email to another member and thought I should include it in the thread.

Basically, the core support is welded to the "frame rails" and the inner fenders. Not sure these terms are the right ones, but the pics show it below.

Take the headlights, grill, front bumper, valence, hood and everything else off.

Remove the screws on the top of the fenders. There should be some sealant near the windshield, you'll probably have to break that loose - pull on the fender or gently pry with a screwdriver. You shouldn't have to pull any other screws out or remove the fender. My driver's fender was jacked up, so its sitting in the bed of my Model A.

There are about 10 spot welds at the inner fenders. Half on top, half below - clean the area up and you'll see or feel them. I got a spot weld cutter from Harbor Freight for $4.99. Take your time with that thing - you can see where I went through the inner fender in the one pic. I only drilled the top ones, the bottom ones came out with a chisel and hammer. The metal tore around the spot weld and I ground the tears down flat - be careful and its pretty easy. I don't know if my drill could have gotten in there.

Where the support is welded to the frame rails, take your time. I used a sawzall because I have one and I love it. Cut small pieces, think about what you're doing, don't cut through the harness or something vital. As your cutting the support up into small pieces, make sure not to cut through all the little brackets, clips and what not. Pull all that off and save it. You never know what the replacement will or won't have with it.

The core support has one or two 1-3" long welds and a couple of spot welds underneath per side - clean the area and you'll see or feel them. Between the sawzall and a cut-off wheel, you can get trim the core pretty tight to the frame rails. Then I used a flap wheel in my 4.5" grinder to finish cleaning up the metal and the welds. Very easy.

The AC component was just twisted up and out of the way. I'm really hoping I can snake it back through and remount it without having to evacuate and open the system.

I've got another core support coming from a parted out car. The plan is to cut off the frame and inner fenders and get it ready to weld on. I should be able to just drill the spot welds out on the replacement since I don't care about the part its welded to. That should make it a little cleaner. I'll use my Hobart 182 MIG with some 0.030" or 0.023" wire. Its supposed to be off a brilliantrot car, so I should only have to do spot painting.

I've never done body work on a modern car, so this is new to me. But the basics are the basics. Cut off everything that is "crap" and weld some "nice" back on.

[nando]

yeah, I don't think a core support replacement is that bad. it's not as easy as an E36, but it doesn't mean the car is dead.

I didn't do the cutting/welding, but here's all the pics of what my car went through:

http://www.325ix.com/photos/index.php?dp=2007/