De-locking doors

[Jozi]

Has anyone de-locked their doors?

How did you go about doing it? Make a plate the same profile as the lock hole, weld it in, grind it flat and use fillers to make it smooth again?

I tried the above on a scrap door, I think I warped the door skin a little as a result I'm not worried about damaging paint, she's going in for a re-spray this summer.

[Jozi]

Anyone at all? :D

[Van Westervelt]

You have to do it slow in order not to warp the panel too badly. You have the right premise.

[Jozi]

I think I may have done it to fast on the scrap door. Any point in recessing the in-fill plate a little to leave a bit more room to layer the fillers?

[Van Westervelt]

You want as little filler as possible, so no.

[Jozi]

Ok, thanks for the advice. Just thinking, I might cut the in-fill piece from the scrap door, save me bending the metal a little and at least have some use for it :P

[StereoInstaller1]

Yes, use metal from a scrap door, but use JB weld to attach it so you don't get the warps.

Scuff and clean the metal on the inside and the scrap you are gluing in. Such a tiny space should never crack or distort, so this should be an easy and troublefree way of shaving the locks. I would not do that handles like that, it is too big an area.

[Jozi]

Why JB (not sure what it is but I assume adhesive?) weld and not weld with the mig welder? A side from having to do it slow to prevent warping.

Keeping the handles, would look odd to have them missing. Key lock's are small enough to not notice, keeping the rear lock though for emergencies!

[evoDRichie]

jb weld will work fine no need to get heat involved

[StereoInstaller1]

Why JB (not sure what it is but I assume adhesive?) weld and not weld with the mig welder? A side from having to do it slow to prevent warping.

Keeping the handles, would look odd to have them missing. Key lock's are small enough to not notice, keeping the rear lock though for emergencies!

Ah, gotcha, did not notice the UK location.

JB weld is a paste-type epoxy adhesive, roughly double the viscosity of normal epoxy adhesives, and is far more "workable" than typical epoxy adhesives.

There has to be a similar product on your side of the pond, I just have no clue what it is.

GL!
Luke

[Jozi]

Ah yeah there more than likely is something similar, possibly even by the same name. I'll have a look in the motor factors the next time I'm in there.

I'm still tempted to weld though :oops: but the chances of warping the door skin are of putting. Bit more welding to keep me busy before I can move onto the doors.

[AndrewBird]

If you have the welder, weld it. Do it a tack at a time and let the panel fully cool before the ext tack. I mean cool to the touch with a bare hand.

JB welding anything is pretty ghetto in my book. I reserve JB weld for repairs that are temporary or there is no other option.

[StereoInstaller1]

If you have the welder, weld it. Do it a tack at a time and let the panel fully cool before the ext tack. I mean cool to the touch with a bare hand.

JB welding anything is pretty ghetto in my book. I reserve JB weld for repairs that are temporary or there is no other option.

That is just silly. We are talking about a 1" hole in a door skin, and you will spend hours fixing the warps no matter how careful you are. The factories glue stuff like that in, hell the whole body is glued together already!

[Stephen]

yea but Luke, you didnt grow up in a body shop

[StereoInstaller1]

yea but Luke, you didnt grow up in a body shop

oh shit, I forgot that line, dammit!