If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
with the right products, a lot of time and a lot of work its possible. i've seen paint thats shape is more bad than yours. for example my convertible before and after:
*** For sale: euro stuff, BBS steering wheels, smoked tail lights, bunch of rare wheels (5x120 and 4x100) ***
nice fucking job nick. was that single stage brillianrot though?
im pretty sure lagunengrun has a clear coat. you cant bring that back the same way as a single. that said, his doesnt appear anywhere near close to how bad yours was.
So I know I'm a asking noobie questions but I've searches on youtubes, forums, google, everywhere, but can anyone give me a step by step process? And tell me the products they used?
Please and thanks guys I really want to get my car looking good and painting it is way tok pricy as I'm still in high school
"Do what you love, and love what you do" -Ray Bradbury
Your best bet is going to be to pay someone to detail it for you. Without the proper tools and knowledge you will get mediocre results and could even damage your paint worse.
nice fucking job nick. was that single stage brillianrot though?
im pretty sure lagunengrun has a clear coat. you cant bring that back the same way as a single. that said, his doesnt appear anywhere near close to how bad yours was.
Thank you, it was. The hood was supposedly hellrot but it looks the same to me (untrained eye for paint codes?).
So I know I'm a asking noobie questions but I've searches on youtubes, forums, google, everywhere, but can anyone give me a step by step process? And tell me the products they used?
Please and thanks guys I really want to get my car looking good and painting it is way tok pricy as I'm still in high school
For my car I used a my Griots Garage dual action polisher with 3M perfect it compounds and polish. For the really bad spots, the hood and trunk lid, I wetsanded with 2000grit then with 3000grit. It's easy to wetsand right through the paint or clear so you need to go slowly. After that, I hit each panel with 2 passes of compound, then 2 passes of machine polish. It's fairly simple but is time consuming and take practice. A dual action buffer is much more forgiving than a direct drive rotary buffer when it comes to burning paint. For single stage you will need to keep up on light polishing periodically it will start to haze again and always keep wax on it, once a month atleast is what I do.
I learned alot of techniques and products from this site here
I live close to elk grove, but I'm alllllways in the north part of Sacramento, that's how I've put 4k miles in a little under 2 months lol I try to keep it clean, spend 4 hrs on my interior with water and 3 packs of mr.clean magic eraser haha that thing works miracles, I'm gonna post pics soon of that. Cannnnnot wait to make this thing shine..
"Do what you love, and love what you do" -Ray Bradbury
Base/Clear will NOT have the same results, and as mentioned, there is a good chance you will damage your paint if you just got at it without knowing what you are doing, and that product is not going to produce the kind of results you want. Particularly since those cars are different colors.
Spend some time on autopia, or just have a professional look at it. A REAL paint correction pro, not some car wash near your house that offers "details". Most of those produce cars that look like shit with shiny tires.
If your clear is peeling (looks like it might be on the top surfaces), I doubt even the best paint correction specialist can help... It'll need to be recleared.
Good luck!
Originally posted by FunfGan
My car is so racecar it makes peoples head's hurt. Literally.
Originally posted by lambo
This is r3v, your logic is useless. We went race-prepped, factory-built, street cars for the price of a loaf of bread.
Comment