Inexpensive paint for under body suspension parts?

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  • Earendil
    E30 Mastermind
    • Jun 2009
    • 1662

    #1

    Inexpensive paint for under body suspension parts?

    I'm not positive there is a course forward for what I'd like, but if anyone knows, you guys do :)

    The last time I had my rear subframe off I really wish I had on hand the material and knowledge to paint it. There was no rust, and what was there wasn't altogether bad, it was just dull/faded and had enough little dings in it that dirt and oil didn't just wipe off, it had to be scrubbed pretty good.

    Where I live salt isn't a big deal, and the underside (at least the suspension parts) aren't rusted. So I'm not looking to cure rust or prevent it. What I'm looking for is an inexpensive paint that will make the parts look newer, while also making them easier to clean and inspect in the future. Call it a feel good project instead of a practical one.

    Any thoughts on good paints to use? We're talking black here, no fancy colors desired. Unless someone wants to convince me otherwise, I'm probably looking for a $10-$20 one hour solution (rattle can?). It's really a "while I have it apart" sort of project :)

    Cheers!
    -------------------------------------------------
    1989 - E30 - M20B25 - Manual. Approx 300,000+ miles - Track Rat & Weekend Fun
    2000 - E46 - M52TUB28 - Manual. Approx 130,000 miles - [not so] Daily Driver

    sigpic

    I'm looking for a Lachssilber Passenger Fender and Hood. PM if you have one or both to sell!
  • oliver.r
    No R3VLimiter
    • Mar 2012
    • 3839

    #2
    for your price range rattle can is your only option.
    i used dupli color engine enamel on some stuff in semi gloss and it makes everything look brand new

    Comment

    • Earendil
      E30 Mastermind
      • Jun 2009
      • 1662

      #3
      Originally posted by oliver.r
      for your price range rattle can is your only option.
      i used dupli color engine enamel on some stuff in semi gloss and it makes everything look brand new
      Engine enamel I have lots of. Obviously the high temp heat isn't required, but does it bond, protect, or clean any better then just any old outdoor "all weather" can from the local hardware store?

      One consideration is that while I can can clean and rough up the surface, I'm not looking to have the parts sandblasted. Will the paint adhere well enough to the already painted (and pitted) surface? Would a primer be appropriate, or just not worth it?

      $20 buys a nice rattle can :)

      Edit: In case anyone was wondering, I'm a complete paint noob. I don't yet know the different types of paint and what bonds well to what.
      -------------------------------------------------
      1989 - E30 - M20B25 - Manual. Approx 300,000+ miles - Track Rat & Weekend Fun
      2000 - E46 - M52TUB28 - Manual. Approx 130,000 miles - [not so] Daily Driver

      sigpic

      I'm looking for a Lachssilber Passenger Fender and Hood. PM if you have one or both to sell!

      Comment

      • ZM Blue Devil
        Forum Sponsor
        • Dec 2006
        • 13836

        #4
        get it powder coated...
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        Comment

        • nrubenstein
          No R3VLimiter
          • Feb 2009
          • 3148

          #5
          Originally posted by Earendil
          Engine enamel I have lots of. Obviously the high temp heat isn't required, but does it bond, protect, or clean any better then just any old outdoor "all weather" can from the local hardware store?

          One consideration is that while I can can clean and rough up the surface, I'm not looking to have the parts sandblasted. Will the paint adhere well enough to the already painted (and pitted) surface? Would a primer be appropriate, or just not worth it?

          $20 buys a nice rattle can :)

          Edit: In case anyone was wondering, I'm a complete paint noob. I don't yet know the different types of paint and what bonds well to what.
          The basic problem is that pretty much nothing in a rattle can will stand up to oil and brake fluid all that well. If the paint just looks old, but isn't compromised, leave it alone.
          2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD 4WD LBZ/Allison
          2002 BMW M3 Alpinweiß/Black
          1999 323i GTS2 Alpinweiß
          1995 M3 Dakargelb/Black
          - S50B32/S6S420G/3.91
          1990 325is Brilliantrot/Tan
          1989 M3 Alpinweiß/Black

          Hers: 1996 Porsche 911 Turbo Black/Black
          Hers: 1988 325iX Coupe Diamantschwartz/Black 5spd

          sigpic

          Comment

          • Earendil
            E30 Mastermind
            • Jun 2009
            • 1662

            #6
            Originally posted by ZM Blue Devil
            get it powder coated...
            Thanks for the suggestions!

            While I'm aware that powder coating is something that people do to valve covers and the like, I'm not sure what advantages it would offer in my particular case. Could you elaborate on your suggestion? Also, Wouldn't each piece need to be sandblasted first, before powder coating? I want to guess that the cost for this endeavor for a subframe and two trailing arms is going to be well over $100, maybe even over $200?

            I've also thought about giving the protective panels under the car a spray of something, as they never had anything protective on them and are always a pita to clean up. Since they are closer to the exhaust I thought I'd just use engine enamel here. I suppose powder coating would work on this area as well, but again the cost is high for this processes, isn't it?
            -------------------------------------------------
            1989 - E30 - M20B25 - Manual. Approx 300,000+ miles - Track Rat & Weekend Fun
            2000 - E46 - M52TUB28 - Manual. Approx 130,000 miles - [not so] Daily Driver

            sigpic

            I'm looking for a Lachssilber Passenger Fender and Hood. PM if you have one or both to sell!

            Comment

            • Earendil
              E30 Mastermind
              • Jun 2009
              • 1662

              #7
              Originally posted by nrubenstein
              The basic problem is that pretty much nothing in a rattle can will stand up to oil and brake fluid all that well. If the paint just looks old, but isn't compromised, leave it alone.
              This is sort of the answer I thought I might get. Though, if one is leaking that much brake fluid then the question of rattle can vs powder coating is one of the least of your concerns ;-)

              In thinking about it, perhaps I'll experiment on the under panels. I have both black engine enamel and black "outdoor" semi-gloss which I could apply to both panels and see how they are after a Seattle Winter.

              Maybe even a tiny bit of POR-15 black paint, since the internet appears to swear by it. The stuff isn't cheap though, and needs to be brushed on.

              But I understand that it looks like there isn't a path forward for what I desire, at least not with the current set of restraints.

              Thanks for the feedback everyone!
              -------------------------------------------------
              1989 - E30 - M20B25 - Manual. Approx 300,000+ miles - Track Rat & Weekend Fun
              2000 - E46 - M52TUB28 - Manual. Approx 130,000 miles - [not so] Daily Driver

              sigpic

              I'm looking for a Lachssilber Passenger Fender and Hood. PM if you have one or both to sell!

              Comment

              • nrubenstein
                No R3VLimiter
                • Feb 2009
                • 3148

                #8
                Originally posted by Earendil
                This is sort of the answer I thought I might get. Though, if one is leaking that much brake fluid then the question of rattle can vs powder coating is one of the least of your concerns ;-)

                In thinking about it, perhaps I'll experiment on the under panels. I have both black engine enamel and black "outdoor" semi-gloss which I could apply to both panels and see how they are after a Seattle Winter.

                Maybe even a tiny bit of POR-15 black paint, since the internet appears to swear by it. The stuff isn't cheap though, and needs to be brushed on.

                But I understand that it looks like there isn't a path forward for what I desire, at least not with the current set of restraints.

                Thanks for the feedback everyone!
                Well, brake cleaner and fuel are other examples of chemicals that get all over these parts. POR15 is pretty resistant to chemicals, but it doesn't stand up to UV. Not a huge issue, but it is expensive and the return on investment if the paint just looks crappy is fairly low.
                2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD 4WD LBZ/Allison
                2002 BMW M3 Alpinweiß/Black
                1999 323i GTS2 Alpinweiß
                1995 M3 Dakargelb/Black
                - S50B32/S6S420G/3.91
                1990 325is Brilliantrot/Tan
                1989 M3 Alpinweiß/Black

                Hers: 1996 Porsche 911 Turbo Black/Black
                Hers: 1988 325iX Coupe Diamantschwartz/Black 5spd

                sigpic

                Comment

                • 89AlpineM3
                  E30 Addict
                  • May 2010
                  • 548

                  #9
                  I have found that while it is costly, you go through alot of time to take everything apart and clean and paint it only to have it not stand up and look crappy after a while. Save up and have them powder coat them. The heat shields are Stainless Steel and can clean and polish up pretty nice.

                  Comment

                  • mulletman
                    E30 Modder
                    • May 2012
                    • 801

                    #10
                    You're in the Seattle area... check out a place called Art Primo. They're a 'street art' store with many different kinds of aerosol paints. I used them to acquire some Belton Molotow paints for my motorcycle. Awesome paint. The same company makes a product called 'Coversall.' It's bitumen in a can. The stuff can be sprayed onto a piece of metal or wood with visible water droplets, and it still sticks. Version 2 is not glossy, version 3 is. If this stuff doesn't stick to it, nothing will...

                    http://artprimo.com/catalog/molotow-...l-2-p-868.html

                    In any case, give the guys at Art Primo a call and tell them what you're trying to do. They'll probably have a recommendation for you.

                    Comment

                    • jeffnhiscars
                      R3V OG
                      • Jun 2011
                      • 6010

                      #11
                      I've used this stuff and at $8 or so a can seems very suitable for a subframe primer followed a good rattle can rust resistant paint. I did use it on my heat shields which is actually quite the boob move since Im quite sure they are aluminum which always winds up on the short end of a galvanic relationship with zinc. Good thing its only a heat shield since I expect it to disintegrate soon :-)

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