Rust delete-best method?

[E30volk]

Hey R3V.

Paint's expensive.
Or at least that's what I found out today. I was planning on doing a respray in the next few months but after getting some quotes, it's gonna be a bit longer than I thought.
To be straight, my paint isn't even that bad, it's just a few rust spots that are really bugging me. And living in a place with salt caked roads doesn't seem to be helping. The amount of damage after one winter driving here has been mad scary, especially when I think about what's going to happen the next few winters.
So the plan now is to do a full plasti-dip. I'm not a huge fan of dipped e30's, but now that there are so many additives and ways to customize dip, it seems like people are getting some wicked results. Either way, I need something that'll protect the car until I can get a proper re-spray
My dilemma is this though; I gotta get rid of the rust before dipping the car. aand I'm not totally sure how to go about it.
I was thinking about grinding it down with a rust wheel sort of thing and then filler primer+body filler if needed, then just throw down some colour matched spray bomb. It doesn't have to look perfect colour wise since it will be getting dipped.
Another buddy of mine suggested just grinding it down a bit and por-15'ing the thing since it won't be seen anyways..
If anybody's got any suggestions or experience with this I'd love to hear your two cents
cheers

[E30volk]

Here's some cell pics of the worst spots:

[jalopi]

Sand the rust spots down to the bare metal, then primer and rustoleum. Wouldn't waste your money on por-15, I remember seeing something on hotrod.com or one of those restoration websites about how you've got to get the metal clean to have lasting results with it... besides, that's a kinda expensive chassis paint, not really meant for body stuff.

[Sea Aych]

yup, those seem to be in places (mostly) where a bit of paint lines from your new spray won't be too too noticeable (in the door area, and on corners).
For rock chips you could stick some sandpaper on the eraser of a pencil and grind it away and use some touchup paint (or drcolorchip if you can get it shipped up from the us for a reasonable price). I know i'm going to be doing a lot of this when the snow melts over here!

[agent]

Sand the rust spots down to the bare metal, then primer and rustoleum. Wouldn't waste your money on por-15...

Rustoleum is an okay short term solution, though just know that if you do that the car will again have to be taken down to bare metal on those spots before it can ever be (successfully) resprayed. Not that it's a big deal, just an FYI.

The rust spots around Klaus' tail lights got treated with POR-15 (after going down to clean, bare metal). He's garage-kept these days though I fully expect that to be the last place he'll see any rust in the future.

[jalopi]

ya but this dude wants to plasti-dip his car, so doing it the right way doesn't seem like it's important to him - cost seems to be the major factor here.

[agent]

Good point.

[E30volk]

Hahaha yeah, I just need something to keep it from getting more rusted until I can afford a proper respray. thought I might see what I can do with dip
Thanks for the replies guys!

[MaxBell]

Paint it yourself! I did. If you go slow you can do it easy. My car was ruuuuuusty and I got a welder from a friend, paint sprayer (HPLV) from Princess Auto and paint from the local depot.

A couple weekends, it was done and cost like $800 in the end. It looks fucking minty too! Sand well and go slow.

[jalopi]

Pics of the finished job?

Also, how messy was the HPLV? I hear their spray goes EVERYWHERE compared to a HVLP. I'd like to do a HVLP for the paint use efficiency, but my concerns about getting a HVLP for my project is that their air consumption is 2-3x as much as a HPLV and I only have a 20 gallon 5ish cfm compressor.