Rust, how much becomes to much

[Burza]

Hello to all,

I am considering the purchase of a 1988 E30 325. I am seeking some advice as to do I buy a car with some rust issues. Knowing that to find a clean rust free car in my area (New England) is impossible at a sub $10k price.

The car in question has some rusting spots. Most are along the bottom of the door panels and edges of the fenders. The spots are light discolorations, no blistering or flaking. The spots I am concerned about are near to the front strut mounts. Not at the struts, yet over 9 inches away. And a large whole in the trunk next to where the jack is kept. or the well on the driver's side.

I shall try to attach picts if I can.

My intention for the car is HPDE driving. No street driving. I intend to repair the body sections over the next 2 years. However, for this coming year (summer) I would like to drive the car at events. At what amount of rusting areas will it make the most sense to walk away from the purchase?

Seeking some options from others that use there E30 for track use.

Cheers

[Andy.B]

I would say that it largely comes down to your abilities. If you have a welder and a lot of time, then it becomes a question of what your time is worth it to YOU.

If you are going to pay to get rust repair done, then I would seriously consider traveling to find a clean shell.

[dannyyisntt]

Work on a rust free car then work on rusted one. The answer will come to you

[ddavidv]

Let's be clear about what we're talking about.

'Light discoloration' with no bubbling, flaking, graininess, etc sounds like surface rust, a term many people use incorrectly. That's rust from the outside of the panel where the paint has failed. You see this mostly on areas where the paint has been worn off (rock chips) or burnt off (tops of cars in the southwest). That is no big deal; clean, prep, seal, paint.

The door bottoms give me pause. That's a place where two pieces of metal come together and will trap moisture. That's inside-out rust, and a place with no access to the inside. No way to permanently fix that once it starts.

The pocket in the trunk floor is fairly easy to fix, mostly because it's not seen so your work can be ugly but effective and nobody but you will notice. :)

The important part is the 'strut area' stuff...need photos to understand what you're looking at there. Also keep in mind there are areas you can't easily see, like the floorpans. These cars like to rust above the catalytic converter and in the junction of the floor/toe board which is hard to see without the carpet pulled up. Also check the jacking points...if they are rusting through there, run.

For a HPDE toy or race car, the outer panel 'cosmetic' stuff like the fenders is inconsequential; what you need to concern yourself with the most is structural stuff, the parts of the car that are the welded 'shell'. Floor and trunk patches as I said can be ugly, so they don't worry me much. Rocker panels, aprons, structural rails, suspension mounts...those are things you want to see rust-free.

[jeffnhiscars]

Let's be clear about what we're talking about.

'Light discoloration' with no bubbling, flaking, graininess, etc sounds like surface rust, a term many people use incorrectly. That's rust from the outside of the panel where the paint has failed. You see this mostly on areas where the paint has been worn off (rock chips) or burnt off (tops of cars in the southwest). That is no big deal; clean, prep, seal, paint.

The door bottoms give me pause. That's a place where two pieces of metal come together and will trap moisture. That's inside-out rust, and a place with no access to the inside. No way to permanently fix that once it starts.

The pocket in the trunk floor is fairly easy to fix, mostly because it's not seen so your work can be ugly but effective and nobody but you will notice. :)

The important part is the 'strut area' stuff...need photos to understand what you're looking at there. Also keep in mind there are areas you can't easily see, like the floorpans. These cars like to rust above the catalytic converter and in the junction of the floor/toe board which is hard to see without the carpet pulled up. Also check the jacking points...if they are rusting through there, run.

For a HPDE toy or race car, the outer panel 'cosmetic' stuff like the fenders is inconsequential; what you need to concern yourself with the most is structural stuff, the parts of the car that are the welded 'shell'. Floor and trunk patches as I said can be ugly, so they don't worry me much. Rocker panels, aprons, structural rails, suspension mounts...those are things you want to see rust-free.

Great response

[jalopi]

Might be cheaper/easier/better to buy a car out of state, cars tend to become more rust free the further you go south of the mason-dixon

[M-technik-3]

this is in the boston cca site.

1986 325es VIN WBAAB5406G9677577 Delphin Gray, Black leather interior, 5 speed manual, 218K miles. This was the top of the line 3 series in 1986. Leather sports seats, M-Tech 1 steering wheel, 13 button OBC, front and rear spoilers, sunroof, ABS, LSD differential, cruise control, A/C, 2.7 liter six cylinder engine. I am the third owner and have service and repair records from new. This car is in great condition. Everything works - A/C blows cold and is converted to R134a, dash is not cracked, leather is excellent. Many recent new parts including Timing belt/waterpump, radiator, front control arms, fan clutch, alternator, battery, rotors and pads. It is lightly modified with H&R OE sport springs/ Bilstein HD shocks (1" lower than stock), D'Sylva performance chip (raises redline to 5300rpm, bhp to 141 and torque to 190 ft/lbs), 3.25:1 LSD differential, Stainless steel cat-back custom exhaust (not loud - just a slightly deeper note), 1987 325is front spoiler, 325is 20mm front swaybar, leather shift knob. Currently sitting on 15"x7" Borbet style C wheels with 205/50/15 Dunlop Direzza Z1's. The car handles great and is surprisingly quick for an eta powered E30. There are some minor rust issues, but overall the car presents very nicely. $5,500 obo on the Borbets or $5,000 obo on 14" bottlecaps needing tires. Contact Colin