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    Help with a little rust.

    So I thought I'd get some of you guys opinion on some of the rust on my e30. The first is located on the driver side rear pop out window. I'm not to familiar with rust repair so I'm open to any help.







    My second spot is my driver side trunk well. This spot is pretty intense, I've found the leak and fixed it so I'm not worried about water getting in this well any more. Most of what you're seeing is just color. But there is some really bad spots in there. The metal is still pretty solid on both walls and the floor, and by solid I mean I'd have a hard time poking a screwdriver or something threw it. Advice on how to go about this would be appreciated.











    The final area is in my battery tray. Again there is a lot of color here so don't let that fool you. With this area I think I'm going to wire grind it then rust treat it and do a rubber under coat on it. I've found the cause for the leak and fixed it as well.









    Would a grinder and wire brush take care of some of this?

    #2
    I would clean those areas up first to get rid of the rust stains and see what you've got. I'm thinking your battery tray might actually be fine. Looks like a little minor pitting on the bottom, and not much else. The other two spots will most likely need patches welded in though, especially the driver's side of the trunk. Clean the rust stains out, and take a wire wheel to the remaining rusty areas. Your inner wheel well lip looks pretty rusty, and will likely need replacement. Can't quite tell how bad the rest of it is. I see two areas that might need replacement, or might just be a little pitted. The spot by the window looks pretty badly pitted as well.

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      #3
      Originally posted by rturbo 930 View Post
      I would clean those areas up first to get rid of the rust stains and see what you've got. I'm thinking your battery tray might actually be fine. Looks like a little minor pitting on the bottom, and not much else. The other two spots will most likely need patches welded in though, especially the driver's side of the trunk. Clean the rust stains out, and take a wire wheel to the remaining rusty areas. Your inner wheel well lip looks pretty rusty, and will likely need replacement. Can't quite tell how bad the rest of it is. I see two areas that might need replacement, or might just be a little pitted. The spot by the window looks pretty badly pitted as well.
      Yeah, that lip in the drivers side is really rusty. It was actually rust to the point that I could break peices off with my fingers, I alreay broke off all that were able to be broken off. For the lip, I was thinking about just cutting the lip itselfs off and having someone weld it together. As far as the sport on the wall its still very solid from both the inside and outside. I'd have a pretty hard time poking a hole in it. With this spot I was thinking a wire brush shout take care of most of it. And as far at the spot on the window I was hoping I could get away with just a wire brush but like you said I think cutting it would be the better way to go to actually solve the problem. I'll get it cleaned up and take some more pics.

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        #4
        OP here

        A little update, I went ahead and hit my trunk with the wire wheel and these are the results. My battery tray side is pretty good, when I really have a good day I'll get in there and really get all the surface rust off and start the sealing and rubber undercoat process.



        The drivers side on the other had is a lot worse. I hit the side wall pretty good with the wire wheel just to see how far the rust is in the metal. It seems pretty deep but not deep enough that I can't get to bare metal with the wire wheel. By the lip I was also able to poke a small hole through with my finger, it'll most likely need to be cut out. By the looks of it, it seems as if the entire left jack stand compartment will have to be cut out. This is were I need advice. Should I just find a junk car with a rust free left trunk pocket,or should I have someone do it all with sheet metal except for the outer left portion (the curved/rounded part). I'd appreciate and possible advice on ways to handle this. Here's some pics.







        Here's the inner right wall.



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          #5
          Depends how much needs to be replaced. If the whole box needs to be replaced, then yes, get a body cut from a parts car. If you can do it with patches, I think I'd just use sheet metal. Clean those rusty areas up with a wire wheel and see what you have. Also it depends how nice you want the final product to be. If you want it absolutely perfect with no pitting, then obviously you're going to be replacing more metal than you would otherwise.

          That bit by the wheel well seam will need to be cut and welded for sure though.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by rturbo 930 View Post
            Depends how much needs to be replaced. If the whole box needs to be replaced, then yes, get a body cut from a parts car. If you can do it with patches, I think I'd just use sheet metal. Clean those rusty areas up with a wire wheel and see what you have. Also it depends how nice you want the final product to be. If you want it absolutely perfect with no pitting, then obviously you're going to be replacing more metal than you would otherwise.

            That bit by the wheel well seam will need to be cut and welded for sure though.
            I've been thinking of buy the new sheet metal from bmw themselves. They have all the parts available. I was going to but the entire drivers rear fender, this way I'll be taking car of the rust under the driver rear window as well as the rust on the wall and floor of the jack storage. They also have the inner right piece to the jack storage as well. And just to be safe I was going to buy the outer and inner wheel arches as well. If I go this route I probably won't nee the inner rear arch though, the small section that has rust could be patched probably.

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              #7
              I actually have the same rust situation in my battery well in the trunk. Although it's a cabrio, and they instead bolted a massive weight instead of a battery. I cut some metal from a donor car and will keep you posted on my welding progress.


              Last edited by domotang; 09-10-2015, 05:05 AM.

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                #8
                Great man! This'll really help me out, I was going back and forth on weather to cut my battery tray or not.

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                  #9
                  So I though I'd update the thread and possibly get some opinions from you guys. So today I took the carpet out of my car just to see if I had any rust on my floor panels and here's what I got. The passengers side is pretty clean and rust free (at least to my eyes) the driver side however has a little rust. When I was taking out the carpet I notice that the carpet behind the accelerator pedal was damp, and only in this spot. The rest of the carpet on the drives side was completely dry. Judging from the looks of the rust on the drivers side it looks like all I'll have to do is just cut the square piece out and patch it. I'm kind of debating rather I should just fix my rust of find another car that has no rust. The floor board is not what has me thinking about this its my trunk jack storage compartment that has me worried. I also took the time to look in my front drivers wheel well to see if I could see any rust and thank god I didn't, j decided to take a look seeing as all my rust seems to be on the drives side. Here some pics. Also, can anyone give me some help on what could be causing the leak on my drivers side? My cowel drains as well as my sunroof drains are not clogged and are draining properly.







                  I don't think this is rust I'm pretty sure it's just that apoxy or glue that bmw used mixed with dirt. It's pretty sticky.



                  passenger side, nothing much to see here.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Well, it's your call as to whether or not you wanna get another car. I don't see anything there that's super hard to fix, the jack area being the most difficult, probably. But, it depends on what your skills are, your experience, who is going to be paying for it, and of course your budget. I'd get a quote from a shop (if you want to go that route) to repair the gas pedal area, the jack storage area, and that bit under your window, and go from there. Then compare that to the cost of getting a rust free shell.

                    Originally posted by Rouvld View Post
                    I've been thinking of buy the new sheet metal from bmw themselves. They have all the parts available. I was going to but the entire drivers rear fender, this way I'll be taking car of the rust under the driver rear window as well as the rust on the wall and floor of the jack storage. They also have the inner right piece to the jack storage as well. And just to be safe I was going to buy the outer and inner wheel arches as well. If I go this route I probably won't nee the inner rear arch though, the small section that has rust could be patched probably.
                    Replacing the entire driver's side rear quarter seems like an incredible amount of work (and expense) to fix a relatively small rust problem.

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                      #11
                      As I discussed previously, I'm about to tackle my battery/weight box in my trunk. Odd enough, after reading your new post regarding your floor pans, I just repaired mine! This is the first time I've ever welded. Using a MIG, I patched the rusted area from a piece I cut from a wrecked donor car.



                      [IMG]ttps://farm1.staticflickr.com/607/21214661209_fd99aa2b37_k.jpg[/IMG]

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                        #12
                        So today I hit my trunk again really good with the wire wheel. I specifically focused on the inner right wall, the wall was solid but I went under the car just to look and say that part of the other side was rusted as well and that I could see sunlight through a small crack. So most likely I'll need to cut the entire trunk well out and have a new one welded in.

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