Rubber shadowline paint

[MexicanDragon]

Another though...

What about the cheap bastards who's front plate holder was knocked off and lost off a DB and has a now unsightly silvery strip in the front. I wonder if that would be happy being black? Hmmm...

**BRENT**

[rodrigo]

I don't agree with that. I messed it up the first time, the whole passenger side, had a bunch of runs all over. I let it dry overnight, and peeled it all off the next day in 5 minutes, with each section almost in all one continuous piece. It's not hard to remove at all.

I did the aluminum/chrome inserts of my side moldings using adequate sanding, self etching primer, and SEM trim paint. Within 6 months, there were chips everywhere in it.

my trim is holding up really well so far...we'll see what the winter does to it. thats interesting that it comes off so easily...you think it will stick to the shadowline longterm??

maybe the stuff just sticks to ABS a lot better that to the anodized finish on the trim.

[Jand3rson]

Its can BITCH to get off.

i wouldn't use it on the shadowline, but grilles, spoilers, the black oil cooler vent trim, mirrors, etc. shadowline: never.

I don't agree with that. I messed it up the first time, the whole passenger side, had a bunch of runs all over. I let it dry overnight, and peeled it all off the next day in 5 minutes, with each section almost in all one continuous piece. It's not hard to remove at all.

I did the aluminum/chrome inserts of my side moldings using adequate sanding, self etching primer, and SEM trim paint. Within 6 months, there were chips everywhere in it.

And removing the window trim isn't the hard part. It's getting it back on without bending it that's a bitch. At least it was in my experience.

[rodrigo]

Well youd have to take them off the car, and from what i understand, that is a bitch and risky

it takes time to remove the trim, but it's not too bad. Removing the trim, I think, is also the proper way to do it. its not too bad, but you'd need to get some clips for the c-shaped piece on the rear window winglet...they seem to always break. :-/

and the joiner piece on each rain gutter!

use a wood spatula and a few towels strategically placed and everything comes off!

[Stephen]

i've used this stuff a lot on grille modifications for Volvos and it works well, but god forbid you need to remove it completely, especially in hard to get areas like tight corners. also, if it ever does get chipped (which it probably will) you will need to remove ALL of the stuff from that entire piece or else you will always notice the chip mark as a divit in the coat of material. I experienced that on several grilles I modified. Its can BITCH to get off.

i wouldn't use it on the shadowline, but grilles, spoilers, the black oil cooler vent trim, mirrors, etc. shadowline: never.

black SEM trim paint and etching primer are still the best i think. if it gets hit with a chip, hit it with some black magic marker until you can paint it again.

has anyone in here consider looking into sanding and powder coating for the shadowline?

Well youd have to take them off the car, and from what i understand, that is a bitch and risky

[rodrigo]

i've used this stuff a lot on grille modifications for Volvos and it works well, but god forbid you need to remove it completely, especially in hard to get areas like tight corners. also, if it ever does get chipped/scraped (which it probably will since we park in parking lots) you will need to remove ALL of the stuff from that entire piece or else you will always notice the chip mark as a divit in the coat of material. I experienced that on several grilles I modified. It can be a BITCH to get off.

i wouldn't use it on the shadowline, but grilles, spoilers, the black oil cooler vent trim, mirrors, etc. shadowline: never.

black SEM trim paint and etching primer are still the best i think. if it gets hit with a chip, hit it with some black magic marker until you can paint it again.

has anyone in here consider looking into sanding and powder coating for the shadowline?

[Jand3rson]

It's not going to be crystal clear, and it's also going to be textured. It will probably come out looking like frosted glass.

[Stephen]

i see. i guess everyone will just have to find the limits on their own. my first experiment will be coating the headlight/foglight lenses with the clear plasti-dip. i hope it will fill the pitting a bit and also be a thick enough layer for protection, like lamin-x.

Post pix after. Id like to protect my ellips, at least a little

[straight6pwr]

Nope, it starts to solidify VERY fast. And you can't do heavy coats with this stuff, it runs like a mother if you pile it up on a vertical surface.

i see. i guess everyone will just have to find the limits on their own. my first experiment will be coating the headlight/foglight lenses with the clear plasti-dip. i hope it will fill the pitting a bit and also be a thick enough layer for protection, like lamin-x.

so the solution for a stencil may be a paper stencil held against the surface, versus tape. tape it around the edges to hold it down, then youll have no tape in contact with the paint. may be a less than perfect edge, but since it rubs right off, that can easily be cleaned up.

[Jand3rson]

i imagine youd only need one heavy coat right? let it dry for a minute or two so it doesnt run, then pull tape.

Nope, it starts to solidify VERY fast. And you can't do heavy coats with this stuff, it runs like a mother if you pile it up on a vertical surface.

[straight6pwr]

The only thing is if you were going to do it on your paint, you'd have to make sure you have the stencil good and flat, like with painter's tape, and remove it immediately after each coat, otherwise it will stick to the stencil and just all peel off, and you don't want to use a razor blade after it's dry. But you could do it on your side-window glass, then using a razor wouldn't be a problem.

I might have to get some white tomorrow and give this a shot.

i imagine youd only need one heavy coat right? let it dry for a minute or two so it doesnt run, then pull tape.

[Jand3rson]

Because this is more fun, dammit!

[guibo09]

why not just use the tested and true magnetic numbers?

[Jand3rson]

The only thing is if you were going to do it on your paint, you'd have to make sure you have the stencil good and flat, like with painter's tape, and remove it immediately after each coat, otherwise it will stick to the stencil and just all peel off, and you don't want to use a razor blade after it's dry. But you could do it on your side-window glass, then using a razor wouldn't be a problem.

I might have to get some white tomorrow and give this a shot.

[straight6pwr]

Ok, I'm intrigued. I've gotta see pics of post-removal on the paint. I'm thinking if it dries fast enough, a can of white + a couple stencils would make a great setup for numbers for autocrossing. Would look better than painter's tape, no?

**BRENT**

Holy shit, that's genius.

couple thoughts on what this stuff could replace:

3)vinyl car graphics. just mask, spray with appropriate color, viola! instant hood motorsports flag. maybe some some ///m pinstripes?

i'm the genius here.