Paint recommendations for daily driver that is not garage kept

[ZeKahr]

My car appears to be on what looks like the original paint. I’m amazed at how well this paint job held up over 35 years. However, the paint is slowly starting to fall apart and there is surface developing in various areas of the shell (which is still highly intact). I am looking to address this ASAP (ideally before the upcoming winter) before paint/bodywork turns into a money pit on its own.

I am looking for recommendations on a paint job (brand of paint, paint methodology, and price point) that is as strong as possible, looks presentable (joe average across the street thinks its a good looking paint job), and isn’t too costly. I am not going for a show quality job, but something that looks good from 10 feet away and won’t need lots of maintenance to keep looking good. This car will not be garage kept and will be living outside in an open driveway on the Northeast (specifically central NJ), so the paint will have to hold up well to rain, sunlight, snow, and road salt; this car is also a daily driver.

According to the research I’ve done, these cars used oil based paint, which is no longer available due to environmental regulations (unless its available thru the black market wink wink nudge nudge). However, I’ve heard that there are modern-day paint formulas that far exceed the durability of the original oil based stuff. Paint/bodywork experts, please weigh in with your suggestions.

[e30vert]

Are you able to use a DA sander and multiple grits of sandpaper to prepare the surface of the vehicle?
Prep is everything!
If you could sand with a DA and then shoot a coat of bonding primer in your garage after some basic disassembly and masking this could go a long way towards reducing the cost of the paint job. Rolling a primered and wet sanded vehicle with areas masked off into a paint booth so that the painter can lay down some base coat clear coat will go along way in cost savings. The ability to wet sand it and compound/polish after the vehicle has been painted also saves $

[Vincenze]

Most body shops will use their own preferred paints.

Even Maaco will paint decently, but they will paint over windshield rubber trim, etc because their prices are low.

How about the paint that Jordan used?

https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/general-forums/members-rides/the-project-forum/372494-project-wei%C3%83%C5%B8er-regen-91-318is-restomod/page26#post6967913

[ZeKahr]

Are you able to use a DA sander and multiple grits of sandpaper to prepare the surface of the vehicle?
Prep is everything!
If you could sand with a DA and then shoot a coat of bonding primer in your garage after some basic disassembly and masking this could go a long way towards reducing the cost of the paint job. Rolling a primered and wet sanded vehicle with areas masked off into a paint booth so that the painter can lay down some base coat clear coat will go along way in cost savings. The ability to wet sand it and compound/polish after the vehicle has been painted also saves $

Unfortunately, I don't have a garage and live in a gated community that is somewhat strict on auto maintenance so I will have to get a shop to paint my car. I will most likely end up going to Maaco but will look at alternatives. I will be paying a bit more to make sure that they do good prep work.

Most body shops will use their own preferred paints.

Even Maaco will paint decently, but they will paint over windshield rubber trim, etc because their prices are low.

How about the paint that Jordan used?
https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/for...26#post6967913

Never heard of that brand of paint, but I'll give that stuff a look.

I also found this article (https://www.cartalk.com/blogs/craig-...eum-and-roller) of a guy who painted his 1979 Blazer with Rustoleum oil-based protective enamel and a foam roller and it came out looking pretty respectable. It also has a classic car paint look to it, which I think could work well on an E30. Not sure how long it will last given the paint and methodologies he used.

I'm thinking after I get the car painted, I'll probably get a ceramic coating applied to strengthen the finish even further.

[e30vert]

Just make sure to allow the paint to "cure" at least a month before any compounding and polishing is done. The clear coat will be too soft if not allowed to cure. Have them spray some extra coats of clear so that you can compound and polish. I would not go with the roller method personally.

[Sunnyledge]

E30s were originally painted with acrylic lacquer. Today most cars are painted with either a one or two stage urethane paint. Prep and paint work is expensive. A quality paint job with prep work in central NJ might cost 2x the value of your car.

[Vincenze]

Unfortunately, I don't have a garage and live in a gated community that is somewhat strict on auto maintenance so I will have to get a shop to paint my car. I will most likely end up going to Maaco but will look at alternatives. I will be paying a bit more to make sure that they do good prep work.

I also found this article (https://www.cartalk.com/blogs/craig-...eum-and-roller) of a guy who painted his 1979 Blazer with Rustoleum oil-based protective enamel and a foam roller and it came out looking pretty respectable. It also has a classic car paint look to it, which I think could work well on an E30. Not sure how long it will last given the paint and methodologies he used.

You can rent a paint booth with air if you want to DIY.

I think the guy used a paint that blends well with the previous layers of it. Essentially, you put a rather thick paint layer with a foam, then use a sanding block to sand off 75% of it to flatten the surface. Then you repeat again and again up to 12 layers. It's a rather laborious process.