yes they're still available. I posted pics early up in the thread. If you're keeping your E30 I highly recommend the full key repair kit. Price has dropped recently, though it's still $200+. Includes every single lock and all of the keys brand new. Of course the dealer coding for your car will no longer be valid at that point.
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E30 OEM KEY OCD Thread
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I BUY/SELL REFURBISHED CM5907s & CM5908s
HOWTOs:
DB vert plastic bumpers
OEM Keys
MTech1 docs
88 ix Lach/Card
91 ic Calypso 3.1
86 Cosmo 2.7
OEM+ or bust!
reelizmpro: I will always be an e30 guy.. I still do all of my own labor
TrentW: There's just something so right about a well-built M20 in an E30
e30m3s54turbo: I save my money for tuner parts.
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Agreed. I do this for any E30 I plan to keep
Originally posted by bradnic View PostYou can also replace ALL your locks with brand new parts by ordering 51-21-1-904-727. THEY WILL NOT BE KEYED LIKE YOUR ORIGINAL KEYS THOUGH. Comes with the full set of 4 BMW keys. Hat tip to@jph for the ECS link. https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/51211904727/
I BUY/SELL REFURBISHED CM5907s & CM5908s
HOWTOs:
DB vert plastic bumpers
OEM Keys
MTech1 docs
88 ix Lach/Card
91 ic Calypso 3.1
86 Cosmo 2.7
OEM+ or bust!
reelizmpro: I will always be an e30 guy.. I still do all of my own labor
TrentW: There's just something so right about a well-built M20 in an E30
e30m3s54turbo: I save my money for tuner parts.
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Make your own "Valet Key"???
I hate going to the dealer, just a PIA and hassel for them to tell me everything I need has to be ordered
I Just took possession of a 89 e30, only came with 2 keys "S type with plastic" these will open/close all the locks and "dead bolt" the drivers door lock.
So I am missing the "Valet" and the "Wallet" key and the "key code"
I was thinking of just going to the hardware store and having two keys cut from the ones that I have.
One of them I would just cut out the "handle part" and make a wallet key no big deal...
With the other one I would file down key cuts at the end from key pins 4 on and also shorten the key i bit to match what a standard "I" length key is.
From what I understand from this post is that the "Thickness" of the "I" only prevents it from being inserted into the glove box and trunk cylinders. But does the length and ground down key pin areas prevent from turning in the glove box, trunk cylinders, and dead bolt the drivers door lock?
I might have to get a blank "I" standard key and have it cut and modified by grinding down in key pins just to have it not be able to be inserted into the glove box and trunk???
What are your thoughts???
TIA!!!
Ok here's my update, After obtain a copy from the hardware store I ground down the tip of the key and the last three pins landings. I used a BMW lock refurb kit to see where the last three pin would line up. The key still goes into all the locks, ignition, door, glove box, and trunk and still was able to turn it. The only thing I was not able to do is to "deadbolt" the driver's door.... So I think the "standard I key" with the thicker ridge is the only thing preventing insertion into the glovebox and trunk... Now onto finding a blank for that key...Last edited by DaveH91e30; 03-02-2019, 04:08 AM.
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I have a few questions for the key gurus out there.
1] I recently bought a rebuild kit for the driver side lock. It worked great. I haven't had time to put the new lock back in and last week I lost the only key I had. Meanwhile, I installed remote CL, but can't go anywhere without the key. Will a locksmith be able to cut a new key if I take apart the lock and give him the 11 digit code? I actually wrote it down when I rebuilt the lock, but I'll take it apart and check just in case.
There are 6 pins on top and 5 pins on bottom. Is the code from the inside out in a zig-zag pattern (top-bottom-top-bottom...).
I'll give them the lock to test out.
2] There are two part numbers for the illuminated key -
General key illuminated (blank) 51211151014 *CODE 5000
General key illuminated (blank) 51211900894 CODE* 10001
Wtf does code 5000 and 10001 mean?
3] I will also buy the no thrills cheapest blank (32321109801). As I understand, this also opens the doors, just not the trunk and won't deadlock, correct? I want the locksmith to first try on this one since the damn illum. key now costs $90.
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So after some digging, it seems that CODE 5000 and 10001 are key codes up to 5000 or over 10001, in other words locks with 9 (?) wafers or 11 wafers.
So some locks had less wafers I guess due to no central locking or no dead lock.
Also the "general" key with plastic head can be used on all locks as long as a locksmith does it for you, since the only difference I can see in the very first post/picture is that the key that's not supposed to open the trunk and glovebox has a few positions at their lowest setting, otherwise the key shape and length seems to be the same.
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Ok so keys were bought, cut. Locks rebuilt.
Now I have a problem with the ignition barrel.
Does anyone know how to get the "CODE" of the locks based on the wafer numbers?
I don't know if my car has original locks and am afraid to order based on VIN.
I do know all the wafer numbers, and the barrel can be ordered with the key code. But I have no idea how to get that code. Any ideas?
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AFAIK you cannot order an individually coded ignition lock. You can get a new key set, but not a custom/specifically coded ignition lock. If I’m wrong on that I hope someone posts a correction.I BUY/SELL REFURBISHED CM5907s & CM5908s
HOWTOs:
DB vert plastic bumpers
OEM Keys
MTech1 docs
88 ix Lach/Card
91 ic Calypso 3.1
86 Cosmo 2.7
OEM+ or bust!
reelizmpro: I will always be an e30 guy.. I still do all of my own labor
TrentW: There's just something so right about a well-built M20 in an E30
e30m3s54turbo: I save my money for tuner parts.
Comment
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Originally posted by Fusion View PostOk so keys were bought, cut. Locks rebuilt.
Originally posted by Fusion View PostNow I have a problem with the ignition barrel
Originally posted by Fusion View PostDoes anyone know how to get the "CODE" of the locks based on the wafer numbers?
Originally posted by Fusion View PostI don't know if my car has original locks and am afraid to order based on VIN.
Originally posted by Fusion View PostI do know all the wafer numbers, and the barrel can be ordered with the key code. But I have no idea how to get that code. Any ideas?I BUY/SELL REFURBISHED CM5907s & CM5908s
HOWTOs:
DB vert plastic bumpers
OEM Keys
MTech1 docs
88 ix Lach/Card
91 ic Calypso 3.1
86 Cosmo 2.7
OEM+ or bust!
reelizmpro: I will always be an e30 guy.. I still do all of my own labor
TrentW: There's just something so right about a well-built M20 in an E30
e30m3s54turbo: I save my money for tuner parts.
Comment
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Originally posted by bradnic View PostPlease post pics so we can see what you’ve got
Originally posted by bradnic View PostWhat’s the issue?
Originally posted by bradnic View PostThe codes were attached to the keys when the car was delivered. An individual owner can therefor know their own code for their car, but not any random code.
I’m not sure I understand the concern. You can only order a coded key if you can prove you own the vehicle in question. I’d say it’s highly unlikely an ignition lock has been swapped, or even rebuilt.
Under 4] there's 4 versions of coded locks. One of my local BMW parts resellers offers these (original) part numbers, so I thought (maybe I'm wrong) that you can order the barrel based on the code.
Worst case scenario, I can order based on VIN. But if it was the wrong coding, I'd have just the barrel without the correct key (only part num 32 32 1 152 474 comes with a key, I guess this is a random coded lock with key). So I would have to rebuild the barrels, which sucks because of the way the black ring requires being damaged to rebuild.
Originally posted by bradnic View PostIf you could reverse engineer the ordering code based on inspecting the locks, then anyone with access to a lock could order keys.
I just had new keys made last week (the ones in the image), and they work in the barrel as well. The problem is that the barrel can't be fixed and I want a new barrel to match the keys and door locks I just spent over $200 on.Last edited by Fusion; 06-10-2019, 01:56 PM.
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I totally get it. But you just don't need the ignition lock code if you can prove ownership of the vehicle. Unlike door glovebox and trunk locks, BMW won't sell you a repair kit for an ignition lock either - they expect you to replace your key with a new coded one if it's worn.
Unless you have reason to believe your ignition lock cylinder was changed the VIN lookup for your key will be fine. If there are 4 lock core types (and your post certainly shows that), then the dealer will have a way to determine the right core for your car based on VIN lookup.
more info on that here https://itstillruns.com/key-codes-ve...s-7455733.html
EDIT: Confirmed there are 4 different ignition locks based on code range. I posted about the ignition lock in detail earlier in the thread - see post 31
If for some reason it was changed either your ignition key would be different from the rest of the car or all looks would have been swapped out with those of a complete lock set. I believe the E30 lock set is NLA now. Just seems extremely unlikely given the cost and effort involved.Last edited by bradnic; 06-10-2019, 07:42 PM.I BUY/SELL REFURBISHED CM5907s & CM5908s
HOWTOs:
DB vert plastic bumpers
OEM Keys
MTech1 docs
88 ix Lach/Card
91 ic Calypso 3.1
86 Cosmo 2.7
OEM+ or bust!
reelizmpro: I will always be an e30 guy.. I still do all of my own labor
TrentW: There's just something so right about a well-built M20 in an E30
e30m3s54turbo: I save my money for tuner parts.
Comment
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I just had to do something similar. Just bought a new to me e30 with only 1 key. Bought a new set of keys based on VIN and found that the new keys didn't match the old one and didnt work in the car so my car was rekeyed for some reason. I was able to order a new ignition cylinder to match the VIN and then rebuilt the other locks to match the new keys.
I think that is the only way to do it.e30sport.net
'86 325es - s54b32tu - 6-speed - Mtech 1
'89 325is - m20b25 - 5-speed - Individual​
'06 M3 Competition - 6-speed
'19 Porsche GT3 RS - 7-speed PDK
'94 Lancia Delta HF Integrale EvoII - Giallo Ginestra
'97 Range Rover Vitesse
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That is definitely the worst case scenario
1) order the master key by VIN, rebuild the non-ignition locks
2) order the ignition lock by VIN if your new key doesn’t work
@Fusion needs to do step 2 first, but will end up in the same place eventually.
The only alternative to a single common key is buying the full lock set, but I checked yesterday and it was showing NLA. You could also buy a used lock set but that’s just delaying the inevitable
This is the full lock set (from post 31 of this thread)
Last edited by bradnic; 06-11-2019, 07:06 PM.I BUY/SELL REFURBISHED CM5907s & CM5908s
HOWTOs:
DB vert plastic bumpers
OEM Keys
MTech1 docs
88 ix Lach/Card
91 ic Calypso 3.1
86 Cosmo 2.7
OEM+ or bust!
reelizmpro: I will always be an e30 guy.. I still do all of my own labor
TrentW: There's just something so right about a well-built M20 in an E30
e30m3s54turbo: I save my money for tuner parts.
Comment
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I guess my best bet is to order the ignition lock based on the VIN and the cheapest key.
Either It won't match and I'll just use the new key to start (installed remote entry anyways) or I'll be lucky and it matches and I can use the master key to start.
Screw trying to rebuild it, too much hassle.
Thanks for your help guys.
Btw: Holding the new driver side lock (pic top left) in my hand, I can deadlock it, but I can't pull the key out in the deadlock position (90°). Is this normal? Not that I really need it, was just trying it out because the previous lock was broken and I never used it so I have no idea how that one worked.Last edited by Fusion; 06-11-2019, 05:41 PM.
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