ordering hids

[Turf1600]

of course not. but you're presupposing that an HID kit uses 30 amps - obviously it does not, or I'd be blowing fuses left and right. since I have such a small fuse, and it's not blowing, I really don't need to worry about my wiring, because if it did for some reason suddenly demand 30 amps, the 7.5 amp fuse would blow before any wiring was damaged.

all it says is they're oversizing the fuses in most HID kits to make you feel safe, when in fact it's less safe than a fuse that's sized just right.

mine's an old DDM kit, soon to be replaced by a kit from the retrofit source (just arrived today in fact).

From what I understand the draw when firing is super high with the cheap kits - which is why I'm suggesting that the OP avoid them or use a harness. I know the DDM kits are middle of the road. I tried several cheap kits that all blew fuses - which is why I'm switching to a full retrofitsource morimoto setup.

[bimmerteck]

From what I understand the draw when firing is super high with the cheap kits - which is why I'm suggesting that the OP avoid them or use a harness. I know the DDM kits are middle of the road. I tried several cheap kits that all blew fuses - which is why I'm switching to a full retrofitsource morimoto setup.

I don't have any cheap kits laying around ATM, but I'll happily test a DDM set this weekend for comparison.

If the ballasts are working correctly then there should not be enough current draw to blow even a factory 7.5 amp fuse. (I supplied all my test data below since the thread got me curious ;) )



The test equipment
Snap-on Vantage Pro 2 Channel Lab Scope
PDI CA60 Current Amp Clamp
14.8v regulated DC power supply and a car battery. (the same setup I use for coding and programming)




The test subjects
1 BMW OE Hella 35w ballast from an e39
1 Acura OE Matsushita 35w ballast and OE ignitor(donor vehicle unknown)
1 Apexcone Aftermarket 35w ballast
1 Genuine Phillips D2s xenarc bulb
1 Rebased xenon bulb that came in the Apexcone kit


Test #1
The Acura Ballast and Ignitor running the Phillips D2s Bulb
High was .902 amps at startup
Average draw was around .3xx amps


Test #2
The BMW Ballast running the same Phillips D2s Bulb
High was .720 amps at startup
Average draw was around .4xx amps


Test #3
The Apexcone Ballast running it's supplied rebased Bulb
High was .701 amps at startup
Average draw was around .4xx amps




Simple Control Test
a single 21w reverse light bulb in a tailight bulb tray
High was .280 amps at startup
Average draw was <.2xx amps

[Turf1600]

Well, that's enough for me to say I was wrong.

[stamar]

I bought the luminis g4 set, the 35 watt ones.

I just went by youtube reviews talking about reliability that covered two of the other brands.

these ones are reliable. They are also a heat synch body as opposed to black plastic.


the 55 watt part I just couldnt decide but both of the 55 watt ones were less reliable

I dont want to get pulled over for them

I figure that if I need better ones... Ill just have to buy another e30 to hand these ones off too.
(jk actually, if 35 watts are not enough, I can put the bulbs in fog lights and then buy some 50 watt ones)

[stamar]

One minute installation time. I still havent seen them in the dark to compare them to regular 9006 bulbs yet.

But I noticed when I took mine out, the PO had but 2 different halogen bulbs in there.

one was sylvania e1 and one is sylvania e13. looking up if that was my whole problem anyway.

[nando]

From what I understand the draw when firing is super high with the cheap kits - which is why I'm suggesting that the OP avoid them or use a harness. I know the DDM kits are middle of the road. I tried several cheap kits that all blew fuses - which is why I'm switching to a full retrofitsource morimoto setup.

I just installed half of the retrofitsource morimoto kit (replacing the worst of my two lights). yeah, you definitely don't need the relay harness (it's just uneccesary complication). I basically unplugged my old crappy DDM kit, crimped a 2.5mm connector onto the morimoto harness (which I cut off the relay kit), and plugged it into the ellipsoid connector. No blown fuses, no check control light, oh and it's about twice as bright and 5x crisper than the DDM junk. :D

I'll probably keep the relays as they are fairly nice, maybe replace my original high/low beam relays with them.

oh yeah, the morimoto ballasts are silent, compared to the DDM ones I have which make a loud, annoying buzzing sound.

[stamar]

what do you feel makes it brighter is it the ballast, or the bulb?

[nando]

maybe a little of both, but mostly the bulb. I went down to 5000k from 6000k, and the optics are much better (sharper cut off, less scattered light). But I also went from 55w to 35w.

[stamar]

Ok hold on nando.

You went from 50 w ( 55w is always false) ballasts to 35 watt miramotos

and 50 w bulbs to 35 watt bulbs. just changed the color to 5000k from 6000k ( it is true this color is brighter but they are similar)


In the same headlight, and you say the 35 watt version is brighter.

Am I correct?

I wish I could switch them but its your stuff. What you must have had is 35 w bulbs in a 50w watt ballast set

I was just about to alert people to that one of the ones i posted on ebay is exactly that. as a matter of fact that one is the same brand as yours but more modern ddm. Its sold as factory kiss.

[nando]

Yes, exactly.

They were 55w bulbs (this was 2006?} The only big difference is reduced life.

[stamar]

I notice with my new hids its not really the brightness of the light if anything I can look straight at it better.

Its that the light is clearer

my brights are still a lot brighter but all they show in their light is an outline..

[stamar]

I want to buy hid interior house lights.