Turn signal ideas?

[Jaxx_]

Anyone have a way to bypass the constant wire? Im runing my euro bumper with just the blinker wire & it blinks quickly indicated a broken bulb.

Can you elaborate a bit more? The flasher circuit is only tied to the flasher portion of the bulb.

[E30_Pare]

Can you elaborate a bit more? The flasher circuit is only tied to the flasher portion of the bulb.

So u know how the front blinkers have three wires. Parking, blinking, ground. Well my euro turn signals are only 2 prong instead of 3. I decided to only run the blinker wire & ground which leaves the parking wire. Which causes the malfunction & causes the indicators to blink rapidly. So I'm trying to eliminate the rapid indicator. Is there a way to trick it into thinking the bulb is there?

[Jaxx_]

So u know how the front blinkers have three wires. Parking, blinking, ground. Well my euro turn signals are only 2 prong instead of 3. I decided to only run the blinker wire & ground which leaves the parking wire. Which causes the malfunction & causes the indicators to blink rapidly. So I'm trying to eliminate the rapid indicator. Is there a way to trick it into thinking the bulb is there?

The park and blink filament are different circuits. So pretty sure you grabbed the wrong wire. Does it actually flash? If it does flash, you have a significantly less powerful bulb compared to stock. You can either modify the flasher relay or you can add an inline resistor to match the factory wattage.

The minimum is 10W for the flasher to function correctly. Otherwise you have to modify the flasher relay, which can go down to 2W. For example, you can't drive regular LEDs with the factory flasher.

If you want to read more, and read how to modify the relay, you can look at the U243B datasheet, which is the pulse generator IC that is in the flasher relay along with the relay. http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/data...c/mXyzusyu.pdf

Have fun.

[E30_Pare]

Yup it's flashing. Let's just say it's a single filament with only the flasher wire/ground connected. Right now the parking wire is just dangling until I figure out what to do with it. I'll check out the relay thing. I've got a thing for relays LOL

[e30trooper]

i have my city lights wired up as my turning/parking tights. They also flash FAST. I hate it but fuck it it works i guess. I wired it up so that the lights stay on ( like parking lights ) and when the turn switch is turned the flash is active.

[Jaxx_]

as I say, the load is too small and you have to add a resistor to the factory relay as per the datasheet linked. It will fix the problem.

[E30_Pare]

I got some old tweeters il rip the resistors off of. Should be sufficent

[Jaxx_]

I got some old tweeters il rip the resistors off of. Should be sufficent

where are you putting them?

[cardnation]

I got some old tweeters il rip the resistors off of. Should be sufficent

Go to radio shack and buy a pack or resistors for $0.99.

Use this calculator to figure out what resistance you need. http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz

where are you putting them?

Resistors should be wired inline with the LEDs depending on how they have been structured (eg: series, parallel).

Do some google Fu' and you will see what I mean.

[Jaxx_]

Resistors should be wired inline with the LEDs depending on how they have been structured (eg: series, parallel).

Do some google Fu' and you will see what I mean.

I'll give you a break because you seem to be new around here. But you should read the thread before you start giving feedback. I wanted to confirm that Pare was not doing this wasteful way of adding load to smaller lights.

Why don't you back up a few posts and look at the datasheet for the factory flasher, then understand what I'm talking about. Or you can put in a fuck ton of resistors and add heat and complexity to every bulb.

[cardnation]

I'll give you a break because you seem to be new around here. But you should read the thread before you start giving feedback. I wanted to confirm that Pare was not doing this wasteful way of adding load to smaller lights.

Why don't you back up a few posts and look at the datasheet for the factory flasher, then understand what I'm talking about. Or you can put in a fuck ton of resistors and add heat and complexity to every bulb.

I apologize if I didn't illustrate/articulate my point appropriately. What I meant to draw attention to is that a properly sized resistor is easily found and readily available. Which will lower the blink to a normal speed without any adverse issues such as excessive heat.

That said, I dont see any reason for such an aggressive reaction, and no where did I say to add a "fuck ton" of resistors.

[Jaxx_]

I apologize if I didn't illustrate/articulate my point appropriately. What I meant to draw attention to is that a properly sized resistor is easily found and readily available. Which will lower the blink to a normal speed without any adverse issues such as excessive heat.

That said, I dont see any reason for such an aggressive reaction, and no where did I say to add a "fuck ton" of resistors.

Don't mind the way I talk and type. I just say fuck a lot.

Anyways, you missed the point. Your method is the wrong way to do it.

edit: also, I would like to point out that the equivalency would be 19W draw in resistors(heat) from going from 25W bulbs(factory) to 6W bulbs(probably what Pare is running). As the datasheet in post 18 notes, it is not resistance, it is load. A minimum of 10W(let's say 1a) load is needed, or it will indicate a bulb fault. If you're going to LEDs... you're talking about 24W of power with resistors to replicated a bulb with a LED array that runs at .1A(measured one two days ago).

The proper way to do this is to adjust the flasher relay and not the external car wiring.

[glnr13]

im using the city light off my bosch smileys for turn signals.

how washed out do they get when the headlights are on?