Does anyone know the size/spec/part number for the two bulbs that provide the backlighting above the LED bar? They are circled in the pic below. I can't remember if one of them wasn't working, but while I have it apart to replace the SI batteries, I noticed one of them looks burned out. Thanks in advance!
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Assuming that those bulbs are 3mm diameter and ~6.5mm long, these would probably work.
I do not know of any OEM PNs for them, but they should just be standard miniature incandescent bulbs. -
bmwman91 Thanks for the input! I really appreciate it. I gave those two bulbs in the SI board a crude measure, and they are more like 4mm x 9mm. My primary concern is wattage, I suppose. I've read the stories about guys putting 194 bulbs for their dash backlighting and melting the diffusers, so I don't want to go too hot here. The bulbs you linked are 0.72W, so I'd feel safe with those. I'm going to see what I have at work (vintage hifi repair shop) in terms of bi-pin bulbs. I'm figuring if I keep it under 1.2W, should be fine, right? I believe that is what the rest of the warning/indicator bulbs in the cluster are rated at (the 12 twist socket bulbs).
Honestly, these SI board bulbs might still be good. I just don't want to have to pull the cluster again for another 15-20 years. I put 1.5 volts to them and the filaments didn't even glow, though. Maybe I'll try 9V once I desolder them. 1.5V did make the twist socket warning/indicator bulb filaments glow, for what that's worth.
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I'd think that 1.2W should be safe in terms of heat. The bulbs are almost never turned on (or at least shouldn't be lol), so I guess it could be hard to dial in the brightness.Comment
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bmwman91 That's a good point, they really should never be on too long once they come on (for conscientious owners like us anyway), and it's easy enough to reset them once they do. I'll make sure to post what bulbs I end up going with. Likely will be something very similar in voltage and amperage as what you suggested.Comment
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You could also upgrade to LED's (as many have done for the light bar of the OBC).
That way, you should be fine for the remaining life of you/your e30.If it's got tits or tires, it's gonna cost ya!Comment
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Very good point, sir. I think if I were doing the whole suite of bulbs for the bar, I'd probably go the LED route.Originally posted by Stanley Rockafella View Post
That said, I find most LEDs to be very "cool" on the light spectrum and I don't want to do a lot of trial and error to get something that is right to my (admittedly old and picky) eyes. And I also have access to a decent selection of traditional/incandescent bulbs, so I decided to go that route.Comment
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Alright, to land this plane for the SI board non-bar lamps... I wound up using a "T-1 1/4" lamp from Mouser. It's pretty close in size to the original lamp, maybe 1mm longer due to it not having that flat cut off at the top.
The specs are:
Model: 560-DW07
Brand: JKW Components
Current: 0.08A
Voltage: 14V
Weight: 0.003880 oz (weight was a serious consideration here, lol)
If my crude math is correct (Amps x Volts = Watts), this lamp comes out to 1.12V at 14V and 0.96V at 12V. Should be good and not melt anything if left on too long. No brighter than the indicator bulbs in the cluster.
Using my apocalyptic tester (a 9V battery with a snap on connector attached and the two bare leads), this JKW lamp actually lights a bit brighter than the surviving "Oil Change" lamp, perhaps due to the thinner gauge wire of the "pins".
I also tried a smaller "T-1" sized lamp, also from Mouser, which lighted up about the same as the surviving lamp, but was much smaller in size (about half the size of the original lamp), but I opted to go with the slightly brighter one. I will keep a few of these T-1 bulbs on hand in case the current T-1 1/4 lamps are too bright upon activation for an alternative. Here's the specs for the smaller lamp:
Model: 560-23
Brand: JKW Components
Current: 0.04A
Voltage: 14V
Weight: 0.003175 oz (super light for racing applications, obviously)
Photos below show the replacement T-1 1/4 bulbs installed above the SI bar, with another one of the replacement T-1 1/4 bulbs (560-DW07 with the untrimmed pins) vs. the original bulb for reference in the foreground. I always buy several in case some don't survive the journey. Note the pins on the original flat top bulb are much thicker.
At any rate, while I was in there, I replaced the SI batteries, all indicator bulbs, the two cluster backlighting bulbs (12V3W) and did up the odometer gears as well. Hopefully I won't be pulling this cluster again until I'm qualified for Social Security. Still have slight regrets about not using the racing bulbs, but that'll all come to light (ha) once it's time for an oil change.
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Thanks a lot for sharing this thread here. I don't know much about it. But I would like to learn more. Have a very good day!Comment
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