Installing Luke's Box - questions!!!

[ak96ss]

Didn't say I was unwilling, it takes a few seconds to take the pictures and get them up. Fortunately they are not installed yet, because otherwise you'd be out of luck.

I bought the 564 in July 2005 and the 421D in February 2006, so I have had them for a few years now.

Edit: Pictures deleted.

[Schnitzer318is]

^LOL... I wonder how many of those amps are out there in MD. Probably a lot.

You'd be better off searching Craigslist for your missing amps/sub.

[jon.giant]

I search the model #'s of all the stolen equipment on google for recent activity on forums nationwide and a google site search of craigslist locally and nationally... Daily. Since it was stolen. (*Edit* and of course e-bay */edit*)

Sorry you got caught up in it and thanks for posting the SNs. As long as I created a username in this forum for which I am not sure why it exists at least I can give you my opinion on your questions.

Do you have two of the Infinity Perfect 10.1d subs or just one? Either way you might want to go with the Thunder 8302 amp because it will deliver more than enough power. Whereas the 421D won't quite ever reach even one of those 10.1d's potential power.

As far as needing a Cap to run this system I would advise against it. I had a 95 nissan with standard alternator/battery and the system could handle the draw of those two amplifiers. Also many people say that they will test the caps with a multimeter and will find they do nothing as far as storing or transferring any sort of current.

And as far as mounting the amps on the subwoofer box. I'd say I wouldn't. You will probably want to mount the subwoofer box to the floor or rear wall of the trunk so it does not constantly move around the trunk as it does its thing. The amplifiers are something you might want to have more frequent and convenient access to.

Also the amps are made to withstand road vibrations but personally I do not like to add on the risk of shaking something loose with it vibrating along with the subwoofer enclosure.

Just my $.02. If any of you have more suggestions on finding my equipment I'm all ears.

P.S. <- this is what part of the alphabet would look like if Q and R were eliminated

P.S.2. -> Maybe setup some sort of electric fence perimeter to keep thieves away from your system you have a nice setup.

P.S.3. -> Since you said you like your trunk space for well.. uh.. space. You might consider mounting the Sub in the rear deck or elsewhere because that particular sub is well suited for free-air mounting... i.e. no box

[ak96ss]

I've decided to mount the amps on a separate board, as I also have concerns about the vibrating from the box (although the box is VERY sturdy!).

Just one 10.1d.

Thanks for the input, and no harm, no foul - I'd be curious as well.

[ak96ss]

So now I'm thinking I may have to splurge a little and get a new amp for the sub. If you hadn't figured it out, I am a trifle partial to MTX. Anyone have thoughts on either the Jackhammer JH600 or the 1000XD with that 10.1d?

JH600:

RMS Power Output (Watts x Channels) 350 x 1
Peak Power Output (Watts x Channels) 1200 x 1
Power at 2 Ohms (Watts x Channels) 600 x 1
Bridged Power (Watts x Channels) N/A
Minimum Impedance Bridged N/A
Minimum Impedance Unbridged 2
Best Frequency Response 20-200 Hz
THD at Rated RMS Power 1%
Signal to Noise Ratio 70 dB
Input Voltage 14.4v
Amplifier Class D
Low-Pass Crossover Frequency 40-200 Hz
Low-Pass Slope (dB/octave) 24 dB/oct
High-Pass Crossover Frequency N/A
High-Pass Slope (dB/octave) N/A
Bass Boost 0-12 dB
Bass Boost Frequency 40 Hz

1000XD:

RMS Power Output (Watts x Channels) 500 x 1
Peak Power Output (Watts x Channels) ---
Power at 2 Ohms (Watts x Channels) 1000 x 1
Bridged Power (Watts x Channels) ---
Minimum Impedance Bridged ---
Minimum Impedance Unbridged 2
Best Frequency Response 20-200 Hz
THD at Rated RMS Power 1%
Signal to Noise Ratio 70 dB
Input Voltage 14.4v
Amplifier Class D
Low-Pass Crossover Frequency 40-200 Hz
Low-Pass Slope (dB/octave) 24 dB/oct
High-Pass Crossover Frequency N/A
High-Pass Slope (dB/octave) N/A
Bass Boost 0-12 dB
Bass Boost Frequency 40 Hz

[StereoInstaller1]

John, trust me on this: that box with that woofer only needs 300WRMS to make PLENTY of boom.

Try it first, you will be shocked.

I know several installs with under 150 RMS that make big fat bass.

Remember that it takes 10X the power to gain 3db, that is why I build such efficient boxes. 100db @ 1 watt IN CAR is what I expect.

Luke

[jon.giant]

John, trust me on this: that box with that woofer only needs 300WRMS to make PLENTY of boom.

Try it first, you will be shocked.

I know several installs with under 150 RMS that make big fat bass.

Remember that it takes 10X the power to gain 3db, that is why I build such efficient boxes. 100db @ 1 watt IN CAR is what I expect.

Luke

I agree. You don't need more power. In fact I was just looking at my birth sheet for the 421D and its actual power output is 358 watts rms. I imagine yours is similar. That should be ample power for one sub.

[StereoInstaller1]

I agree. You don't need more power. In fact I was just looking at my birth sheet for the 421D and its actual power output is 358 watts rms. I imagine yours is similar. That should be ample power for one sub.

Jon, have you looked at how I build these boxes?

The point is 100% of the bass sealed into the cabin, along with top-notch craftsmanship. I tune with the specific resonant frequency of the E30 interior in mind, but keeping it a bit fat at the 25 to 35Hz region, just for the bitches.

[jon.giant]

No sir, I cannot say I have. How are you tuning a sealed box? By making it the proper volume?

[AndrewBird]

They aren't a sealed box. They are ported but the ports are sealed into the cabin. As is the front of the woofer through a ski-hole in the rear bulkhead.

[ak96ss]

John, trust me on this: that box with that woofer only needs 300WRMS to make PLENTY of boom.

Try it first, you will be shocked.

I know several installs with under 150 RMS that make big fat bass.

Remember that it takes 10X the power to gain 3db, that is why I build such efficient boxes. 100db @ 1 watt IN CAR is what I expect.

Luke

<lol> OK, I'll take your word for it. Just that momentary allure of being able to say I have over 1000W in the car; which would be almost entirely useless, as I often find myself turning the stereo off to listen to the Triflo anyway... :)

[ak96ss]

Here is where we are now - which is to say, not very far. Just got the connectors and crap for the wiring in this afternoon, and I still need to drill a hole for the speaker wire and mount the sub, then when I get the template work on the amp board... It will likely be weeks! ;)

[jon.giant]

That's a nice looking setup. It would look good with some gloss finish cherry wood and aluminum accents on the port. I'd throw a Soundsplinter Rl-i 10" in there.

[ak96ss]

That's a nice looking setup. It would look good with some gloss finish cherry wood and aluminum accents on the port. I'd throw a Soundsplinter Rl-i 10" in there.

It would, except that the part you see there is flush with the firewall and behind the back seat, somewhat like this:

[StereoInstaller1]

Here is mine: