Kenwood HU cutting out?

[StereoInstaller1]

Why would you power the antenna unless you were using it? The Kenwood has a separate output just for the antenna, that would be the blue wire. It is live only when the unit is in tuner mode versus the blue/white that has power whenever the unit is on

[bmwstephen]

I'm referring to the "Ant-Pwr" white wire in the diagram below

[bmwstephen]

No...that wiring is wrong.

Since you aren't using the amp, you will use all 8 speaker wires.

Grab that little mess and re-do it.

Somewhere I posted a chart that shows the bypass and shows deck wiring.

Here is the basics: use the 4 pair of twisted wires: red strips and black stripe are positives, so brown wires are negatives (yes, BMW uses black stripes as +)

Now back at the amp, you will use that same 4 twisted pairs (8 wires, 4 twisted pairs) and simply connect them to the 4 pair of speaker wires which will be radically different.

Use your ANT CONT (blue) to the white on the antenna.

Luke, reviewing this piece of instruction here. I do not think it applies to me because I did a 318ti/z3 antenna retrofit. On the rear of my antenna unit, there is no connection to plug the existing white wire located in the trunk. The z3 antenna only has the following: antenna (thick black), ground (thin black), red (power)

[bmwstephen]

use the pairs! Blue/brown is the same as the brown/orange.

I knew it wouldn't be so easy! I always say BMW changes their shit and doesn't tell anyone.

Great job on that chart, BTW!

Luke

thanks Luke. 2 more specific questions.

1) So can I simply just splice all those negative wires in unison and into one bundle and join them together? Or is that a bad idea (I'm have know knowledge of electrical.

2) those 3 thick wires (red, white, brown) I pointed out. are they exclusive to the amp and should I just ignore them?

[StereoInstaller1]

use the pairs! Blue/brown is the same as the brown/orange.

I knew it wouldn't be so easy! I always say BMW changes their shit and doesn't tell anyone.

Great job on that chart, BTW!

Luke

[bmwstephen]

oki Luke. I came back home tonight all pumped up to tackle the trunk wiring only to get stumped half way through when I realized that some of the wiring codes in your diagram arent matching up. So after splicing as many dash wires (+) to the (+) correct speaker wires, I was starting to tackle the (-) only to realize...

I do not have the Brown/Orange wires you speak of. Rather I have 2 pairs of (Brown/Yellow) and (Brown/Blue). I assume these are the dash negatives so I was thinking about splicing all the negatives together into some sort of single common ground because I can't really distinguish which is which (is that even possible?)



Additionally, I have 3 addition thick wires in Red (with a black stripe down the middle), White, and Brown, that have been cut off. I'm not sure what they are used for but I assume they were exclusive to powering the amp that's no longer in use?

[bmwstephen]

much appreciated Luke. Will take a look at this tonight

[StereoInstaller1]

and I made a bypass thread: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=191119

[StereoInstaller1]

OK, here is the info.

Obviously, what you do here is simple: connect the "deck" wire to the "dash" wire, then back at the trunk, connect that "dash" wire to the "speaker" wire.

This is not rocket surgery, boys. Get it done.



Aftermarket-----------Dash Wires-----------Speaker Wires

RF+ Grey--------------Blue/Red-------------Grey/White
RF- Grey/Black--------Brown/Orange--------Grey/Brown

LF+ White------------Yellow/Red------------Grey/Red
LF- White/Black-------Brown/Orange--------Grey/Violet

RR+ Violet------------Blue/Black------------Black/white
RR- Violet/Black-------Brown/Orange--------Black/Brown

LR+ Green------------Yellow/Black----------Black/brown
LR- Green/Black-------Brown/Orange--------Black/Violet


(+12V Unswitched) Yellow----Red/Green (Changes to Yellow at C302)

(+12V ACC) Red-------------Violet/White (Changes to Voilet/Grey at C302)

(Ground) Black---------------Brown (may also be Brown/Black)

(ILL) Orange-----------------Grey/Red (Changes to White at C302)

(P ANT) Blue-----------------White (this is one of 2 white wires)

(AMP REM) Blue/White--------White (this is the one in the same harness as the speakers)

[Schnitzer318is]

^That's some weird stuff right there. People always go about trying to over complicate a simple BMW amp bypass. I'll never understand it.

This may help, though his testing procedures and explanation seem over the top.

http://www.unitedbimmer.com/forums/c...termarket.html

Edit: This should help more.

[blackhawkimpact]

Oh, nvm then. You should rewire everything again. I had a similar problem and had to rewire the whole unit.

[bmwstephen]

You should cover those cut wires with electrical tape or something.

they were covered prior to taking the pics. I removed them to get a better look at what wires were cut and spliced and Luke's comments for the amp bypass wiring before I continue with this project. I assume the wiring back here is correct because as mentioned earlier, I have sound to all 6 speakers

[blackhawkimpact]

You should cover those cut wires with electrical tape or something.

[bmwstephen]

hope you're still reading this Eric and Luke. Below are pics of the amp bypass my tech did. I assume its correct (I say this because I do get sound to all 4 speakers + 2 tweeters). However, I sense that something is wrong.

[StereoInstaller1]

Wait...let me get this straight...you are saying you run 10 gauge wire to your mids and highs?