What was behind the after market HU

[jjc-hi]

Finally got the HU that came with the car out tonight. It was a 2002 Pioneer unit. As suspected it was butcher job.


I plan to purchase the new Kenwood KDC-X595 (which has variable color) to install in the car. I have the the electrical troubleshooting manual and the info on this forum and I have installed a system in my 87 VW Vanagon but I am by no means an expert at stereo installation. I'll probably need some help rewiring this. I can identify almost everything except a have long purple/red wire and a long gray/red wire (with plug on the end) coming out of the wiring harness that I am not sure about. What are these? Also the yellow wire has what appears to be a 1/2 a fuse holder on the end. Is this fuse part of the original wiring or was it added by the PO? There appears to be other 4 other speaker wires in place that may go directly to the speakers. I was planning to reuse all of the existing wiring so I don't think I need these.

The bad news is a couple of nights ago I did something stupid. Before I had taken the head unit out, I tried to reinstall a trunk amplifier that was missing. Got it installed, turned the key, blew a fuse no 21 and had a little smoke in the trunk. Radio didn't work after that and the worst part may be that the OBC doesn't work any more. OBC panel just glows but no longer has any numbers displaying on it. I have not read the troubleshooting section on the OBC yet. How bad does this sound?

[jjc-hi]

Ordered the new head unit. In the meantime did some work on the wiring today. Work in the trunk was easy, rewired the wires going into the amplifier plug per Luke's guide. A few of the negative wire colors were a little different but I kept them together as the twisted pairs. Removed the amplifier.

There are 3 other wires coming through the harness, red/black, brown and white. Do I need to do anything with these or just cap them off?

Checked all the speakers and they appear to be wired correctly. Fronts have a regular speaker wire spliced into the stock wires near the speaker that runs up to the head unit.


In order to take out the left kick panel I had to remove the panels below the steering wheel. When I did this all kinds of crap fell out. I have a Derringer 2 Model VS8910, 2 Automotive Window Automation Control Subsystems and a Shatter Guard. There is a lot of wires cleanly spliced and a few dangling plugs. There is an alarm horn in the engine bay so I new there was an alarm installed previously. I am not sure what to do with this. Options are leave it as is, try to get it working or replace it with a newer model. IDK if this could be one of the reason my auto door locks are not working. Any recommendations?

[StereoInstaller1]

Oh my fuck: a VSE Derringer 2.

Keep it up, man. I will be back in your thread in a bit.

Luke

[jjc-hi]

Look forward to comments and suggestions.

I guess my main question is what to work on first, OBC, central locking, alarm or head unit. Door locks and handles are still off for door painting. Central locking was not working before I started the repaint project.

[StereoInstaller1]

Well, I say start on the central locking/OBC issues.

If I were you , I would pull your left front speaker and look to see what that installer did so long ago. He should have simply wired 2 relays to provide a negative pulse tot he stock central lock system...so pull the module out, check to make sure it has power first, then MAKING SURE YOU HOLD IT VERTICALLY, AS IT IS MOUNTED you can cycle the door locks.

You need to latch the drivers door latch first, so the lock can operate unimpeded.

While you are in there, you can also check to see if your domelight operates properly.

All you need is a simple testlight, no meters or any fancy nothing, just a normal lightbulb style testlight. Connect the clip to ground and probe the white and blue wires, see what happens as you lock and then unlock the doors: test each wire with both lock and unlock. Next, connect the clip to a constant 12V source (cigarette lighter behind the radio, whatever you find) and test those same 2 wires through lock and unlock...again, see what you get.

Then, post it here.

Tell me EXACTLY what happens as you lock and unlock. Do the same for yellow/blue and green/blue as well.

If you get stuck, PM me if you must, but post it here first. There is a TON of knowledge on this forum.

GL!
Luke

[jjc-hi]

Thanks Luke! It may be a few more days before the painting is done and the door locks are reinstalled. Left kick panel is still off so it will be easy to get the speaker out. In the meantime I'll do a little recon.

[jjc-hi]

Car painted today! Should have access to it Thursday. Picked up a working OBC as a back up just in case I need it.

[jjc-hi]

Good day today. Changed a few of the old 7.5 amp fuses and the OBC is still working. Decided to go ahead and install the new head unit. Following the instructions, everything went smoothly, reconnected the battery, turned the key on and everything worked. I now have a new HU and all 6 speaker work fine. Thanks for the great DIY instructions! Didn't have my camera will post pics tomorrow.

Door locks are not on yet. I may just take it to an alarm shop next door and have a new one installed.

[jjc-hi]

Got the central locking control unit out for testing. For all test the unit clicked 2x when locked but made no sound when unlocked.Not sure what the relay is next to the central locking control unit is. It was warm when I removed the pair and it remained warm.

Test light connected to ground:
Blue: no light
White: no light
Green/Blue: no light
Yellow/Blue: on unlocked, off locked, off unlocked, reset – on unlocked

Test light connected to constant 12V:
Blue: light on unlocked/locked
White: light on unlocked/locked
Green/Blue: on unlocked/locked
Yellow/Blue: off unlocked, on locked

Also behind speaker there are 3 wires with white plastic female plugs not connected to anything, one is single with blue/brown wire and the other is double with blue/brown and ? (green/purple I think I got distracted and forgot to write this down).

The process was not hard but a little mind numbing to keep track of what I was doing and to write it down correctly, which I hope I did. What's next?

[StereoInstaller1]

What I need to know you already answered: if that module is warm, it is draining your battery and incapable of functioning.

But, what you didn't do in your most excellent note taking is tell me what that wire did AS you operated the lock, as in "observe and document" the pulse.

Did you download the ETM yet? I know it is shitty, but do it anyway, give it a shot.

Blue and white run the motor, the "green stripes" provide a signal from the motor to tell the rest of the system to lock or unlock...but in your case, your CLM is dead.

Luke

[jjc-hi]

What I need to know you already answered: if that module is warm, it is draining your battery and incapable of functioning.

[So what is this module? Does it need to be replaced?]

But, what you didn't do in your most excellent note taking is tell me what that wire did AS you operated the lock, as in "observe and document" the pulse.

[? Which wire, one of the wires on the unidentified module?]

Did you download the ETM yet? I know it is shitty, but do it anyway, give it a shot.

[Yes I have downloaded the ETM. I am using the 89 version. I think when I checked there was no 90 version.]

Blue and white run the motor, the "green stripes" provide a signal from the motor to tell the rest of the system to lock or unlock...but in your case, your CLM is dead.

[If CLM is dead does that mean it needs to be replaced or its just not getting power?]

Luke

Thanks but you quickly went over my head. Questions to your comments posted in the quote above. I scanned the ETM section on central locking and it looks like I will go from operation 4 (no doors lock) to test A. I don't see a diagram that identifies what the wire numbers are.

[StereoInstaller1]

Yeah, that ETM is as clear as mud.

First: that module is the central locking module. If it is warm, there are issues. I would start by replacing it.

Second, when you move the lock, one or the other of the "green stripes" should switch to ground. The other wire should be "open". Those are the signal wires, and get that signal from the door lock actuator.

When one of them goes to ground, the CLM generates a +12V pulse on either blue or white. The other wire (blue vs white) should already be "resting" on ground. Opposite direction should generate a +12V pulse on the other wire, so as to reverse polarity to the motor.

You seem to be hanging in there pretty well, congrats on the head unit install!

Luke

[jjc-hi]

Clearer. There are 2 modules in my first photo. The smaller one is the one that is warm, what is this? I though the central locking unit was the larger module.

[StereoInstaller1]

Yes, that is correct. Smaller one is dome light relay

[jjc-hi]

Got tired of thinking about what to do with old alarm system so I pulled it all out. Took my time checking every so often to make sure that everything still worked. Mostly successful except for losing power windows. Gotta work on that this weekend along with the power locks. Brought the car home tonight so I can spend more time on it.

OK back to the original problem. The dome light relay is warm so I need to replace this right? $120 new. Will this have any impact on the power locks?

Key in drivers lock will turn somewhat toward lock position and will make CLU click but doesn't lock door, still have to push lock down from inside an close door. Is a problem with actuator or CLU? CLU is another $135 if I can't find a used one here.

Now that I think about it, am not sure if power mirrors were working before I pulled them off. I need to check this also as they seem to be somewhat connected to the central locking system.