What is this wire behind drive side speaker

[bmwstephen]

Found this wire poking out. It's disconnected. I searched the surrounding area and didn't ntoice anything disconnected.

[Doughnut]

Not sure what the lonely plug is (maybe an option plug that your car doesn't support)

But get rid of those bloody scotch locks!

[bmwstephen]

working on it..trying to clean up the wiring

[StereoInstaller1]

But get rid of those bloody scotch locks!

He took it to a "pro", thats what you get.

Didn't use relays on the lock circuit either, how long you think a 500mA output will live?

[bmwstephen]

ugh don't remind me. so much for a simple plug and play. now I have to gather a couple of relays and learn how to wire them up. what has turned out to be a one night trouble shoot expanded to a week long one.

[quote=StereoInstaller1;2440363]He took it to a "pro", thats what you get.

Didn't use relays on the lock circuit either, how long you think a 500mA output will live?[/quote]

luke, can you elaborate on that? are you refering to the alarm unit being killed in this process?

[StereoInstaller1]

luke, can you elaborate on that? are you refering to the alarm unit being killed in this process?

Yes. The alarm brain has a 500mA output on the door lock wires. It is just a tiny little transistor running the locks. The lock relay onyour car has 2 things going against it: 1 is it requires about 800mA to run it AND it "rests on ground" meaning, the alarm now sees ground on whatever it did last.

[StereoInstaller1]

You find your relays yet?

[bmwstephen]

yup. thanks for following up Luke. I bought 2 relays and followed some of your old posts on how to wire them up. So much for a portable alarm, adding those relays, tapping in additional 12v ground, and fabricating mounting locations in order to make a clean install took a lot more time than expected. For kicks and giggle, why aren't the internal Relays in the Central Locking Mechanism sufficient to regulat the in going and outgoing voltage sent through it?

Also, I'm still perplexed at the unused wire up there. What is it for?

[StereoInstaller1]

yup. thanks for following up Luke. I bought 2 relays and followed some of your old posts on how to wire them up. So much for a portable alarm, adding those relays, tapping in additional 12v ground, and fabricating mounting locations in order to make a clean install took a lot more time than expected. For kicks and giggle, why aren't the internal Relays in the Central Locking Mechanism sufficient to regulat the in going and outgoing voltage sent through it?

Also, I'm still perplexed at the unused wire up there. What is it for?

Yes. The alarm brain has a 500mA output on the door lock wires. It is just a tiny little transistor running the locks. The lock relay on your car has 2 things going against it: 1 is it requires about 800mA to run it AND it "rests on ground" meaning, the alarm now sees ground on whatever it did last.

You connected the green wire to the door pins, right?

Purple is for certain OLD Mercedes and most Fords pre-2005 that provide a "positive trigger" for turning on the dome light.

Brown/white can honk the horn when the alarm goes off. Needs a relay and needs to connect to the horn AFTER the stock relay. It is cool but a PITA to install well. Grey is "trunk pop out", AKA "AUX 1" and will provide a ground when the button is pressed...so basically read your fucking manual!

[george graves]

But get rid of those bloody scotch locks!

Pfff - They are great if it's something you'll be un-doing...and as if butt connectors are any less destructive. Otherwise solder + heat shrink = bi-winning.

[StereoInstaller1]

Pfff - They are great if it's something you'll be un-doing...and as if butt connectors are any less destructive. Otherwise solder + heat shrink = bi-winning.

Solder does NOT belong in a car, George.

No manufacturer uses it at all, anywhere, in ANY electrical system. You have been proven wrong a million times, WTF?

Save your damn solder for circuit boards!

[george graves]

NASA uses it. Anything high-end uses it. It's fine - actually - it's better then fine. Trust me. Manufactures don't use it for other reasons...

I've gone as far as talk to a fucking NASA soldering instructor about this. It's was this guy's job to teach other engineers working on the space shuttle how to properly solder wires and connectors that people's lives depend on.

Now, I wouldn't expect you to solder your joints installing car stereos all day long - It's too much work. You need to make money at it, so I know you need speed and convenience, so butt splices are a great choice - FOR YOU.

Plus, I can't imagine being a car audio installer and dropping a hot iron on someone's brand new Porsche seat - What would that set you back? 5k a pop? Anyways...

What you fail to recognize is that solder, butt splices (and yes, even quick connects) are all tools. They all have a time and a place to be used. You need to know when to use witch one and why - that's all. End of story.

And yes, we all respect and appreciate your years and years, and years and years of experience. :) Cause I know you're old 'n stuff. :) :) :) :) :)

Don't just take my word for it. Here's what other installers have to say:

http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~36483~PN~1

Solder is definately a better connection when done correctly. The ONLY time I use butt connectors are on larger wires such as starter kills.

I agree with you guys I do not use butt connectors. I use solder on every connection plus heat shrink

With a little practice, it seems faster to solder anyway. Solder is so much cheaper than the butt connectors.

I prefer solder, I've used butt connectors and they work ok for some things.

Read The MECP study guide. Period.

If you want to argue, argue with them....

[StereoInstaller1]

Seems to me the last time we got into this battle you were wrong, NASA doesn't use solder, neither do the aircraft manufacturers...but MOST importantly, NONE of the CAR manufacturers use it.

AFAIK, this alarm is gonna be in a car, right?

And I do believe I have proven time and time again that MOST installers suck, so why would you use their opinions as any kind of validation of your argument?

[bmwstephen]

please stop fighting. I heart both of you. think of the children!

[george graves]

No Luke. I was right - you were wrong. I just dropped the argument cause you were so insistent on the "Luke way" I didn't want to upset you. But if you're going to tell me I'm wrong, when I'm not, I'm going to have to dis-agree with you and then show you why. Sorry.

I'll have to dig up the "Mobile Electronics Certified Professional" manuals, I believe it's the organization that gives installers such as yourself their certificates. Would they be credible enough for you?

There's the other little organization called NASA. Now NASA uses solder all the time. Spacecraft, aircraft, high vibration, with even with super aggressive flux. It's all laid out in their part of their "NASA Workmanship Standards Program" - They have like 10 manuals on this stuff - it's crazy.

http://www.hq.nasa.gov/office/codeq/doctree/NS87393.pdf

All of that is irreverent, really.

If I was installing car stereos for a living, you bet your ass I'd use butt-splices - all god damn day long. They are perfect for THAT JOB.

But please stop insisting that anything other then the "Luke way" is the wrong way - It's not. Solder is every bit as good as butt splices. In some ways(many, errr... dare I say most) it's better, and in some ways it's worse.

Dropping an iron on your carpet? That would be a downside to soldering. People not knowing how to solder correctly? That too could be a downside - they could make some ugly joints. But spending 5 mins with a buddy that knows how to solder, I bet the average Joe could pick up how to make a perfect join in no time.

Worried about flux eating away at the wire? Clean the flux up - that's all. I know you swear you've seen flux eaten wires, but the flux just doesn't have enough chemical in it to eat away that much copper - it's not going to happen. Even with aggressive fluxes - maybe what you've seen people were using copper pipe flux or some shit - I don't know. But that just doesn't happen with electronics solder and fluxes. Just use rosin core solder made for electronics. You'll be fine.

Saying "solder doesn't belong in an car" - is flat wrong. Even your fellow installers say so. I respect your practical advice - and I'm not saying your work is sub-par, so stop acting like I am....but about the solder stuff - you're wrong.