Convertible Box? No way! Lets chat.

[g.ruff561]

Hey Luke,
As soon as you perfect this concept, hit me up. I will be one of your first customers.

Did you happen to see my post for rear seat delete bass design? Is it possible? Do you plan on producing 2 designs? 1 for rear seat delete, 1 for trunk bypass.

To bad I do not live close, you could keep my car as long as you need it for a production model and try different designs. Let me know what you think of the rear seat delete. I think there is a considerable size market for that design.

Thanks...............Gary.

[StereoInstaller1]

Huh? No way, I was glad to see your question!

Sorry if I came off wrong, but there is a bunch of reasons why I have to do it this way, and it is nice to have someone ask instead of me just yapping.

Keep the questions coming!

Luke

[Acehye559]

Sorry, didnt mean to piss you off.

[StereoInstaller1]

Can you make a design to fit two 10" woofers?

No.

I really cannot, not and mass produce it. Making it fit well enough with the airspace requirements and the physical size of 10" drivers makes it just about impossible, plus the lack of suitable woofers at all. If I had a stash of Fosgate Punch DVC woofers from 1998 we could talk...

However, keep in mind that I am known for making BIG, FAT bass that is incredibly clean...you can take it from the over 250 people who have bought boxes from me, this pair of 8's will kick your ass, and your buddies ass too.

OH! That and your car won't rattle.

Forgot that bit. That is why I will not build like every other crappy-ass builder out there. I will not fire a woofer into a trunk, ever. Anyone can build a box, it is not hard and it is not expensive, and your grandpa likely has a tablesaw, right? The reason people buy from me is I build WAY better than your local shop. My subwoofers force ALL of the bass inside the car so the trunk does not rattle. It may not sound like all that big of a deal, but it more than doubles the overall efficiency of the system, and sounds much better too.

In fact, with the standard E30 box, the car is actually quieter with one of my boxes installed! Due to my 30 years as a professional installer specializing in BMW since about 1990, I know more about the acoustics of these cars and I incorporate that knowledge and proper box calculation technology into my designs.

Simple as this: Mine has to be the best I can do or I won't ship it, period.

I can be a bitch like that, sorry.

Luke

[Acehye559]

Can you make a design to fit two 10" woofers?

[StereoInstaller1]

BIG UGLY UPDATE: THIS WILL ONLY FIT MANUAL TOPS!

Sorry.



I have a "model" coming 8/26. I should have a final design/concept/pricing ready by the end of the weekend...so it is time to start the build thread.

The deal here is I have a few goals. First, it has to be LOUD. We need to see big fat bass down to a very solid 25Hz and since the 'vert has even crappier midbass than the closed roof car, it has to play higher than the coupe design too, like nice and even response up to a realistic 100Hz (12db/oct expected slopes for the geeks out there)

The other part of the design is that the bass has to be solid with the top down. That means getting it into the cabin, one way or another.

I am going to use the "Area Under The Roof" as part of the design. This will be an actual "bandpass" enclosure (4th order) and should provide the kind of sound I expect to hear out of one of my designs.

This will, out of necessity REQUIRE you to cut a couple of holes in your car.

I will be including an actual template you will be installing, ports and all.

My plan is to use 2 top quality but inexpensive 8" woofers. I do not know what brands out there are DVC, but that is the plan. The cool thing is that the "sealed" side of the bandpass should be tiny, so the trunkspace usage should be minimal...and I do plan on building an amp rack, should you want it pretty.

This will mean you will buy new woofers more than likely. Bandpass boxes are VERY unforgiving and if you grab the wrong woofer, expect it to die quickly.

I expect power handling to be in the range of 800 RMS, but should play plenty loud on 350 watts too. a 1200.1 monoblock would make HUGE boom, but you would be taking it apart to replace woofers fairly often, unless you were super careful.

I am hoping to find a suitable SVC woofer so everyone can have a 2 ohm load, so a simple class A/B 500ish mono amp would work: they are great, cheap power. The issue is that the very few 8" woofers out there that perform well in bandpass boxes are puny little things that will let all their smoke out at 120 watts...or giant behemoth things that are $300 EACH...I have a few leads on a good woofer choice, and I would think it would be great discussion fodder, too.

Anyway, lets talk about it.

Thanks!

Luke