Convertible Box? No way! Lets chat.

[StereoInstaller1]

OK people here are some details.

You MUST cut the wall of your trunk. Don't even think about, here is why:



The outlined triangles are what needs to be cut out. I say track down someone with a plasma cutter, that is what I will do with this one. I will listen to it first.

Here is where the woofers overlap the holes. As you can see, this is pathetic, terrible blockage...but the best we can do right now. Shitty compromise, but this needs to get done.

Here is the face of the box, obviously unupholstered (this is not even glued in yet BTW) and no gasket:



So, as far as the box itself, turns out we really NEED 1.5 cubic feet on the sealed side. The chamber is 1.35 cubic feet, we will tune that with 2 4" ports, pics shortly.

What this means is that the box comes nearly to the edge of the top storage area:







More to come soon. I am only building a total of 5 of these right now, and 1 is going to be in this car. I am thinking we will be looking at finish options, whether or not you want fully upholstered, the optional amp rack, etc. This can dress up VERY nicely, I have a couple of ideas...

As far as performance goes, on computer this thing should do a solid 135db, or close to it. In car...well, lets hope. The numbers are excellent so far, but the proof is in the hearing.

[DRTSRFR]

:(

[g.ruff561]

For the right bass setup, I would not mind swapping from power to manual. Thats how important having good quality bass is to me. My power top is in-op anyway. Just a matter of tying back the existing wires. IJS................................

[Bearmw]

What is it that makes the power top models more difficult? Is it simply less space due to top motor? If a top is swapped to a manual one is it then the same difficulty as a vert that is an original manual top?

[clayparkley]

OK time for a bad update: This build WILL NOT fit power tops.

I will, in the future, be making a power top version. The notches that will be necessary to make this happen are just too complex. You power top guys WILL get tended too, but I need a model for it, one committed to a full install.

Sorry, guys.

Luke

You'll be making one in near future right? :)
Then meanwhile, I want to at least put premium sound speakers since you said they're the best with out the sub.
Where should I be checking to find one? How do I know if mine is premium or not? If I don't have any luck finding one, which speaker do you recommend(under $200/pair) while I wait for you to come up with a box for power vert.? thanks~

[IminDiegoTriick]

This thread excites me

[StereoInstaller1]

I just looked at mine to see if I wanted to cut holes and found out that the PO cut a 6x10 inch hole clean through.

Guess I learned a new place to look during a PPI. Ugh.

Wow...like right in the middle of the wall, like where all the ribs meet?

OK time for a bad update: This build WILL NOT fit power tops.

I will, in the future, be making a power top version. The notches that will be necessary to make this happen are just too complex. You power top guys WILL get tended too, but I need a model for it, one committed to a full install.

Sorry, guys.

Luke

[morningsmiler]

How would you guys feel about ventilating the trunk wall? I just do not have enough square inches to pressurize properly. I have been thrashing the calculator all day.

BTW: that chamber is 1.35 cubic feet. Just so you know.

You will have to punch holes in the panel behind the seat for sure. I have thinking dual 4" ports. I want to keep airflow at the lowest possible velocity, but I want it "easy" to install, too.

I just looked at mine to see if I wanted to cut holes and found out that the PO cut a 6x10 inch hole clean through.

Guess I learned a new place to look during a PPI. Ugh.

[RT325iVERT]

yes, exactly that. The goal is as little cutting as possible.

Good deal !!! keep me informed .:up:

[StereoInstaller1]

So the box will be in the trunk and then ported into the cabin , but in a bandpass setup .
To me it sounds like there won't be a large amount of cutting , if that is the plan .

yes, exactly that. The goal is as little cutting as possible.

[RT325iVERT]

So the box will be in the trunk and then ported into the cabin , but in a bandpass setup .
To me it sounds like there won't be a large amount of cutting , if that is the plan .

[StereoInstaller1]

Yes, it is very obvious why the metal is so thick, it is clearly structural. That is why one of my design goals is no mods to the car.

The power top stuff has me in a bit of a tizzy. I have a power top 'vert coming tomorrow, so I should be all good as far as that goes, the cars will sound the same. I can finalize the design and listen to it, see what happens.

As it is, I am pretty jazzed. The math shows that the trunk part of the box only needs to be 7.5" deep. Should be very easy to hide, even if you do the optional amp rack you should have decent trunk space!

[IronmanE30]

That metal is thick! Plasma cutter would be the smart way, that is for sure.

Hi Luke,

I have cut up two verts, one power top, one not, and one coupe to take to the junk yard after I parted them out. The verts were much harder to cut the portion behind the rear seat than the coupe. It is not only thick but has an additional support that runs parallel with the ground and double layers where that coupe does not have them. I think this will be the hardest part of your design.

If you need pictures or measurements I have both power top and manual top verts here at the shop. I think this is a great idea but you have a job ahead of you making this the way you have done your previous projects. Perfect!;)

Cheers,

Jim

[Eike_Oak]

I don't mind cutting, but when you say it's thick, is ask why?
Is it tick to sustain the rigidity of the chassis? Would it be a good idea the reinforce the area around the freshly cut hole?

[StereoInstaller1]

That metal is thick! Plasma cutter would be the smart way, that is for sure.