You power top guys kill me...BRING ME YOUR CAR!
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Convertible Box? No way! Lets chat.
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Hey guys, here is a quick update.
Building the amp rack on this car has been one of the most frustrating things I have done yet. Keep in mind, this is not just me building an install for one trunk and getting it done, but this has to be repeatable and pretty much a flawless fit, and be able to be installed by anyone, easily. What that means is a bunch of measurements, and keep trying until it is perfect.
Well, here is the prototype of the 5th version of the E30 Convertible Amp Rack:
This will fit most 5 channel amps and lots of other combinations as well. You will have a space that is 10" X 34" X 3", that should fit just about anything, as long as the wires are "end mounted" and not on the long face.
Keep in mind, this will have a plexiglass window, be upholstered in a nice "near perfect" grey carpet, 2 fans to cool the amps and an LED strip to light the trunk. You will want to convert your stock light to LED, or just do away with it altogether.
We are hoping to start shipping the 'vert boxes and racks this week. If you are interested, please let me know, I only plan on building 5 of these and 3 are pre-sold.
Luke
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This is pretty awesome. I had my box made to fit around the spare tire well and fire a single 10 through the same place you fit your 4" port, however I ran the port right into the box. I still have the majority of my trunk available and stacked my three alpine Pdx amps where the battery goes on a coupe.
5" morel subs in the kick panels, stock kick panel cover removed, morel grill fit to location. Pdx 2.150 powering.
Morel supremo tweeters (the big ones, not piccolo) in custom enclosure just beyond door pulls on door panels. Morel hybrid ovation mid drivers also in the same enclosure. Pdx 4.100 powers these.
All run active with imprint through alpine 9887 head unit.
Single alpine 1043R in trunk fed by Pdx 1.600.
As the pro here says, you can spend a ton of money on it (I have the port actually through the rear seat with custom upholstery) or you can pay somebody to do proper math to check the physics of the space.
I am on the fence for one of these for my other vert.sigpic
Gun control means using both hands
Sex, Drugs, Rock 'n roll. Pick two.
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i am no audio expert by any means, but i was wondering why the vert box uses two woofers and the standard e30 box only uses one?
i have a cd43, all the wiring and both harman kardon amps from a 2000 M z3 that i was thinking about installing in my vert. instead of running the little 5" or 6" woofer/box from the z3 system, could i use your vert box with good results? do i really need dual woofers?sigpic
Gigitty Gigitty!!!!
88 cabrio becoming alpina b6 3.5s transplanted s62
92 Mtech 2 cabrio alpinweiss 770 code
88 325ix coupe manual lachsilber/cardinal
88 325ix coupe manual diamondschwartz/natur
87 e30 m3 for parts lachsilber/cardinal(serial number 7)
12 135i M sport cabrio grey/black
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Originally posted by flyboyx View Posti am no audio expert by any means, but i was wondering why the vert box uses two woofers and the standard e30 box only uses one?
i have a cd43, all the wiring and both harman kardon amps from a 2000 M z3 that i was thinking about installing in my vert. instead of running the little 5" or 6" woofer/box from the z3 system, could i use your vert box with good results? do i really need dual woofers?
Kind of a bizarre thing, but the woofers are basically only a piston. What you actually hear is the ports and that second chamber.
I will shortly be posting some modifications I recommend you do to that chamber to seal it better and reduce some resonances. As I have said before, these things are a bear to install.
The reason the "roofed" boxes only use one driver is that really is all that is required. The single 8" makes some actual thump, the 10 makes solid bass and the 12 makes thunder...and the Beast boxes are coming soon.
I have a general design philosophy of using the least expensive, least weight, highest performing stuff I can find. Basically, it is because I expect fucking stellar performance and I am a cheapass...so I don't want to have to use all the space, I don't want to have to use a big alternator, running giant wire sucks, all that jazz...but I want the stuff I build with MY name on it to kick ass. I mean, something absolutely without equal, the best you can get, period. This is what I have done all my life and I take it (way too) seriously. You guys have given me a chance to build a new business, develop something that might become a solid thing, something I could retire from, something I can pass to my kids, hopefully...all because of the support I have gotten from just this forum. That is why I try so damn hard to get it perfect, better than any local shop could even think about doing, much less for the prices I charge.
We will get the power top thing figured out. Lyle, I might have to bribe you. Maybe I can give you an E30 of mine to drive back home in while your car stays here for 2 or 3 weeks...there is no way in the world for me to put in 50 or 60 hours of thinking and development time away from my shop. Hell, I can't be that far from my tablesaw!
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Originally posted by lylefk View Post2-3 weeks? It's my gf's driver, so if you have something she wouldn't mind driving for a bit I'm sure we can work it out.
Originally posted by Cabriolet View Postluke, if i took measurements w/ pics would you be able to build the power top box w/ that info. or do you have to have the car to test?Originally posted by Turf1600 View PostCan you add anything to a manual vert that will simulate the presence of an electric mechanism?
In the meantime, here's some pictures of how the manual box looks finished (without the amp rack, of course).
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