Central Locking Problems
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So I put the good CLCU in the non-working car and it did not help. I then put the CU back in the working car and swapped in the trunk actuator from the non-working car and it is confirmed fried. I also read on e30wiki that when the actuators fry they default to double lock which means your key is useless until you remove or loosen the actuators. Precisely where I am at.
Note to self...do not bypass thermal protection ever again !!Leave a comment:
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Valid point & it confirms that the CLCU is bad beyond the melted thermal fuse...and yes, it wasnt too bright to think I could just resolder it and not deal with the underlying cause..although you would think there is some other form of protection (like a fuse) to keep the actuators from fryingThat's the problem, the solder you used has a higher melting point, the origional one BMW used had a lower melting point, hence why it was cracked.
This is so that the rest of the C/L is saved if there is an electrical issue elsewhere!
What you have done is allowed more current to flow to the C/L, and I think you may have fried your actuators, as that's always the first to go when its soldered with high melitng point stuff.
I'll swap back in my known good CLCU which will tell me if the actuators are ok.
TYLeave a comment:
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That's the problem, the solder you used has a higher melting point, the origional one BMW used had a lower melting point, hence why it was cracked.
This is so that the rest of the C/L is saved if there is an electrical issue elsewhere!
What you have done is allowed more current to flow to the C/L, and I think you may have fried your actuators, as that's always the first to go when its soldered with high melitng point stuff.Leave a comment:
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I've got to stick my nose in here with a question. Last week I rebuilt my drivers door lock so now that is working as it should. Today I swapped the known good relay and clcu from my other car and confirmed it was the CU. Just for fun I pulled the cover off and found the thermal fuse melted..bingo !! Resoldered it, put it all back together and it worked fine at least for a while.
My problem now is the door actuators are in lock, but none of the doors are locked and the key will not even turn as if to lock them. I think its a synch issue but can't seem to get a response from the system.Leave a comment:
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Im in the middle of trying to fix my centra locking issues right now. I had really high hopes that I'd find the answer by them end of this thread! :( Fucking annoying. Its freezing cold, my kick panel broke into 10 pieces when I pulled it out, and I still don't know whats wrong with this thing!
Its weird because Its worked beautifully for years now. One day I was driving home and the drivers door started locking and unlocking itself for about 45 seconds until it died. Since then my CL has been non existant.
/sucksLeave a comment:
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It was tested before I got it and all the doors works with the one I bought. Plus now I am starting to lose a little coolant
:|
Problems man, I have them.Leave a comment:

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