Shrinking my defrost switch

[Streichholzschächtelchen]

Looking to add gauges up above my radio using a gg afr gauge, and two innovative goods gauges for oil temp and oil pressure. Slot number 4 will remain hazard light switch. Doing so doesn't leave room for the rear defrost switch, but when looking below the AC/recirc double switch there is a little room. My idea would be to take a window lock switch http://www.bavauto.com/fland.asp?par...FQWTfgodMAwK7w and somehow get it to turn the rear defrost on and off. Fitment issues aside, would this work? They both seem to be nothing more than on/off switches, completing or breaking a curcuit.

I really don't want pillar gauges because I'm tall, nor gauges near my ashtray or front pocket as I'm a stoner, and like keeping my wallet, cellphone, etc there while driving. I'd rather keep my vents as well, for hand sweat lol. This seems to be the only way to keep all important functions, have all important gauges, and not look like a ricer.

[reelizmpro]

When I installed my EQ above the radio I relocated the defroster and hazard switches to the left trim panel inside the glove box. The wiring is long enough to reach so it's very easy to do.

[vpilarrt]

Even though both the rear defrost circuits are driven from 30 amp fuses the window circuit breaker is rated (trips) at 25 amps. So will the window lock switch be able to handle 30 amps? Don't know, switches are usually selected to handle a higher current than the circuit is designed for but not sure about 5 more amps. Might have to wire in a ≥30 amp relay so as not to fry the switch.

[Streichholzschächtelchen]

Even though both the rear defrost circuits are driven from 30 amp fuses the window circuit breaker is rated (trips) at 25 amps. So will the window lock switch be able to handle 30 amps? Don't know, switches are usually selected to handle a higher current than the circuit is designed for but not sure about 5 more amps. Might have to wire in a ≥30 amp relay so as not to fry the switch.

You are 100% right on the money. 30A fuse for defrost is #8 on the fuse panel, there isn't a defrost relay. Once I get a few other things done on my car I will use a 30A relay, and previously mentioned switch. Hopefully it can take the extra 5A.

Would it be possible to make my defrost only pull 25A vs 30A? I don't fully comprehend electronics lol, if it takes a little longer to defrost I'm fine with that.

[Rontgen]

If you use a relay to handle the high current to the defroster, you can use virtually any switch to trigger the relay. Current draw on the coil side of the relay is typically very low.

[vpilarrt]

Would it be possible to make my defrost only pull 25A vs 30A?

You would need a .1 ohm, 300 watt in-line resistor - they're about the size of a paper towel tube.

[Streichholzschächtelchen]

I get it now yay! I might not need the relay depending on if the switch can handle 5 more amps, but if I don't want to potentially do it twice go for the relay. Thanks guys

[AndrewBird]

I'd use a fog light switch, not the window breaker. Same size/shape, but just a switch without a breaker built in.

[Streichholzschächtelchen]

I'd use a fog light switch, not the window breaker. Same size/shape, but just a switch without a breaker built in.

Fog light switch is no smaller, I never planned on using the breaker.