subs below rear windows

[Dozyproductions]

Dozy - I just did 5.25's all around, amped and I have the same issue. I am running Diamond S500's in the back with the silk tweeter, OEM premium covers.

The tweeter material such as titanium, silk, ribbons (not a material :)) and etc will more or less not determine how loud it will get... but more or less cater to one's preferred sound. Metal domes will seem crisper though, but dont confuse that with their loudness.

Like a SQ woofer (ex. JL w6) with a boomy one (ex. audiobahns.)

[whakiewes]

Luke,

I can gain it all the way out and for whatever reason the SQ turns to crap and honestly I still feel it is rear biased. The only solution I have found so far is to fade out the rear via the headunit, but I honestly haven't messed with it since I amped and rewired everything. I don't think the S500's are that much more overbearing than the D6's, but it may just be my speaker setup. I have thought about going to a larger 6.5" in the rear deck via the reccomendation of my local shop, move the S500's to the front, and run plate speakers in the door panel compartment. Not sure yet what I am going to choose to do.

I haven't put much effort into bass yet. I don't honestly care for a lot, but now I have nearly none. In my E30 M3 I had two 12" free-air subs mounted to the rear seat (circa 1995 or so) and like the space, but for what it was worth the sound sucked. I was hoping to do something similar but use a 10" into the rear deck. I am also getting a rear euro seat with a fold down arm rest so I have contemplating doing something through that as you spoke of.

Wes

[StereoInstaller1]

No matter how much I play with the gains on the amp, I am still WAY rear biased.

So you are saying that if you have the gains on the rear amp all the way down, and the front amp all the way up it is still rear biased?

Having done about 20 different subs in E30's over the years (all e30 owners are cheapasses, evan back in 1987) I can honestly say these are one of the toughest cars there are to make really impressive bass. Tons of muck are not too tough to make, but nice clean articulate detailed bass is tough.

Here is a list of what I have done so far in my own E30:
1. 2) 12" subs, sealed, big assed prefab box...generic crap. Worked for the weekend, though!

2. Single 12" woofer, 2.2 cu.ft, ported, tuned to 32Hz. Port firing through rear seat, woofer and port both carefully sealed to the cabin.

3. Insanely diffucult bandpass box, 2 ports firing through the rear speaker locations. Single 10" sub, tons of power. Clean, just not enough output.

4. Insanely HUGE ported single 10" (3.2 cubic feet) plenty clean, plenty low, plenty loud...just too damn big. Ported through the rear speaker locations.

Next box is gonna be about 1.4 dubic feet, woofer will be a single S4.10.VC2 from Lightning Audio. 100% sealed into the cabin, ports through the ski hole, along with the woofer.

Luke

[DrMcDave]

remove your rear speakers, you don't need them. and don't add any more tweeters. all you really need is a sub and front components its been covered here 100 times.

back on topic

[whakiewes]

Dozy - I just did 5.25's all around, amped and I have the same issue. I am running Diamond S500's in the back with the silk tweeter, OEM premium covers. Fronts are Diamond D6's with the tweeter mounted in the pod. No matter how much I play with the gains on the amp, I am still WAY rear biased. I thought the silk tweet in the back and then aluminum in the front would make it much more pleasureable, but unless I have all the power pulled to the front (which kills my sound), all mine is from the rear. My general thought is that the location of the stock front speaker makes it hard to hear. I don't want to make special kick panels so I have purchased an array of speakers to play around with. 3.5" Eclipse Coax, 4" Diamond S400 (I got a smoking deal on these), and several tweeters. I am thinking of making a dash mounted center channel type speaker using either one 3.5" or one S400 and the tweets (three speakers all together). I have also considered putting a 4X6" plate speaker in the door panel compartment.

As to the woofers I am stuck as well. I heard an 8" setup in a friends car dialed to respond at its lowest frequencies, and I don't think it will be enough if I add a ton of tweets and Khz level speakers. I am looking at putting a single 10" mounted in the rear deck to fire at the glass, but I want to talk to a pro about the accoustics and mixing the same sound signals with the 5.25".

Wes

[Dozyproductions]

6.5 woofers

[DrMcDave]

i will have 6.5's in the doors, just playing w/ options at the moment. I have my motor torn apart so i dunno when i'll get to this.

[Dozyproductions]

You could always put in 6.5" woofers made by Tang Bang, Ed Designs, DD, or a midbass driver like CDT es-06+'s. (i believe in a sealed enclosure it will go lower than 40hz!)

The reason i ask this is because, i noticed with my rear speakers (5.25 eclipse coaxils) that they, even with fading and all that, are very over powering and pull the soundstage way back. Im not really seeing how putting two tens will work... have seen two eights in an e30 but he also had kickpanel pods aim at him so it kept the soundstage at around his ears instead of from behind him.

kind saying that perhaps the 10's would drone out your music being so close to you. Unless thats how you like it :D

Some one correct me if im wrong, its just what im noticing with my e30. ( know that bass notes travel in every direction for the most part but most of the waves would seem to be reflected off of the back windshield. Since the e30 is not a longer car, this actually is a problem)

[Ray Smoodiver]

eLuke had 8" subs under the rear side windows

[Dominic49]

do what i did in a friends e30... cut out a sheat of MDF the same shape and size to fit above the shelf... cut holes for 2 10s at opposite ends
cut holes in rear shelf that are big enough to buid a sealed enclosure for each sub get the mdf covered re mount 3rd light.... if you are up for the chalenge it is so worth the end result... just make sure the MDF is able to be securly fastened to the rear shelf


i used studs put throught the board with holes drilled into the shelf with a thick rubber washer a normal metal washer and a lock nut to keep it fastened down and vibration free


dynamat between the board and the shelf keeps the ratlles away...




here is an xample of what i did... the whole asembly can be removed by just unscrewing the nuts and undoing the wires to the amp...

[DrMcDave]

what kind of design are we talking here.

I can't seem to picture how i would make this work but i'd like to put some 10's in there.

I am able to fiberglass but would i make an mdf skin or what would i be looking at.