i have some wiring Q's

[bmws50b30]

car i s91 318is with no premium sound. i think the car is pre wired for premium sound. can i use the exisitng wires here to connect my new tweets? is it okay to run patch cable along the pass side with the battery cable? any tricks on removing the stock tweets from the pods? i have the infinity reference 5000cs. i'll be using amps so all wires will be going to the back of the car. is it okay to mount the amps to the back of the seats in the trunk? thanks for the help.

here's the existing tweeter wires

i'll connect the crossover to there pair


patch cable along pass side


patch cable close to DME


my interior how it is now

[StereoInstaller1]

You are doing just fine in using the stock tweeter wire...good that you found the other end in the kickpanel.

I would advise against running the RCAs along the passenger side. Far more chance of noise, seeing the main battery run is there.

Rear seat mounting (trunk firewall) is just fine too. When you pull the back seat, you will find grommets at the top of each side, just cut a new hole to run your cables through.

Looks like you have it under control!

Oh yeah, those tweeters....I carefully cut through the glue using a new blade on your X-acto knife, then carefully pry with small screwdriver.

GL!
Luke

[bmws50b30]

thanks luke. i may have more Q's along the way. i'm taking my time on this install to get it right the first time. i did a search and was reading on some of the install threads. they said not ot run audio wires with power wires. i'll be running 2 amps and never dealt with a distibution block. should i use one or just buy 2 amp wiring kit? if i go with the 2 amp wiring kit, would i be running 2 remote turn on an connect both to the head unit wire? here are the amps i'll be running. i bought the amps from a friend really cheap and it should do the job for my setup.




the sub i'll be using. i need to get a box done for it

[StereoInstaller1]

Dammit, why the fuck do you have to live in New Yawk?

I would trade you a matching 4 channel for the 5 channel in a fucking heartbeat!

That 5 channel is a pile of crap, but it would be perfect for the GFs car until the new Exile comes out...and I have a very similar Alpine 4 channel to your 2 channel...you could have matching amps, she could have 5 channels with me hearing her whine about all the room 2 amps take up...

OK, so I would not recommend any amp kits..you are running from the rear battery, yes? Buy 3 sets of RCAs, a fuse holder, 2 feet of 4 gauge and 10 feet of 8 gauge, plus enough ground wire to do the thing.

Now go get busy!
Luke

[bmws50b30]

OK, so I would not recommend any amp kits..you are running from the rear battery, yes? Buy 3 sets of RCAs, a fuse holder, 2 feet of 4 gauge and 10 feet of 8 gauge, plus enough ground wire to do the thing.

Now go get busy!
Luke

i'm sorry you lost me here. i'm not that experience with installing a system. this is my first time installing amps. i've installed 3 stereos but no amps. can you explain where would i use the 2 feet of 4 gauge and 10 feet of 8 gauge and how would i ground everything? I know where to use the RCA cables. you're still recommending to use 2 amps, right?

thanks for your patience on this.

[NC325iC]

you would run the 4 guage to distribution blocks from bat and ground, then you would run 8 guage from the dist blocks to the amps, ground it just about anywhere really just clear off some paint, i have mine grounded on the rear seat back hold down bolts right now

[AndrewBird]

Generally, the shorter the ground leads the better, so like Chris said, just ground them right there at the amps to the trunk firewall, sanding/grinding away any paint.

Hey Luke, why 3 sets of RCA's?

[StereoInstaller1]

3 sets of RCAs'= front, rear and sub.

Yes,, only you would use 4GA to the fuse holder, then put BOTH 8ga into the other end of the fuseholder...no distribution needed, unless you want the look.

Ground is fine, I just do not recommend using an existing bolt.

Obviously, you will not be using the 5th channel of the 5 channel. It is puny power, and meant for a 2 ohm load, so your 4 ohm sub will only get about 50 watts at most. Your 2 channel will make plenty of power on that sub.

Luke

[AndrewBird]

3 sets of RCAs'= front, rear and sub.

Duh, didn't think of rear. Although, why do you need a set of RCA's for the sub. It is mono yes/no?

[StereoInstaller1]

Momo? No, mono...but 2 RCAs because most amps require 2 channels of input, then "sum" the two internally...most decks have 2 RCAs for sub, too.

Luke

[bmws50b30]

i really appreciate all the help you guys have given me. this is the first install i'm doing with components and multi-amp setup and i want to do it right the first time, at least get the wiring done right with room to upgrade the amps later. i drew this setup from what i understood what you guys are trying to say. let me know if this is correct. i also read from cruthfield that if you combine your amp turn on lead that you'll need a relay to avoid burning your receivers turn on lead. do i need a relay or i'm fine here. again thank for all the help you've given me.

[StereoInstaller1]

Dude, you are all sideways! Or, at least your drawing is.

My rule of thumb is not more than 2 items turned on without a relay.

You would be using "power antenna" to run the antenna, and "amp remote" to turn those 2 amps on. I say no relay is necessary.

Neither are 4 ga grounds on those amps, but that is only overkill, no worries.

Luke

Luke

[AndrewBird]

most amps require 2 channels of input, then "sum" the two internally...most decks have 2 RCAs for sub, too.

Learn something new everyday. I assumed decks had a mono output for the sub.

[Mtriple]

Looks like you're making out just fine Georgie.

[bmws50b30]

thanks bob.

i'm getting there. i'm working on mounting the new tweets to the stock pods. all the wiring is done. i'll be using the stock premium rear speakers for now. should i buy another set of infinity components to match the fronts? is it fine to mount the amps on bare metal? my rear firewall doesn't have the card board panel anymore. should i used nuts and bolts or self tapping screws to mount. i'm thinking of putting some kind of dampener between the amp and the mounting screws. it's too friggin hot to work on the car right now, 90 deg here in NYC.

here's what i've done so far with the tweeter pods. should i use crazy glue or JB weld?