prob a stupid idea...

[StereoInstaller1]

I am gonna be making some kits for verts/sedans and coupes, using E36 soft touch switches, relays, and window controllers...but it is definitely a winter project.

Not cheap. either, plus I have to chase down switches, harnesses and dead E30 window switches.

[MC Hammered]

When you have a kit ready I'll pick one up for sure.

If I can hook it up to my alarm to have the windows roll up when armed would be most useful.

[deathtomine]

I have switches to donate. . .

[el_gringo]

alright ladies, to shed some light on the subject: i PMed stereo installer about how i would approach this idea. waiting on a response.

obviously there is more involved with this than just *snip* *snip* clips and a few beers. if all goes smooth, i will deff post up something. possibly sell some if i/we get enough people to want a "kit"....

[StereoInstaller1]

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=119419Forgot to add that George and I are likely to collaborate on this.

I am an installer, I don't like to build circuit boards (but certainly can) and don't like to do basic assembly. My skills are too valuable to waste time on stuff normally paid $10/hr.

Luke

[Wiglaf]

So let me get this straight: you think you are going to find a nice looking momentary contact switch in DPDT that will run a window motor directly?

Let me know how that works out for you, OK?

using a window switch to short a window switch that's already there? why would you try running the motor directly? if that's how it works now, then the switches can obviously handle it. These aren't 100A starter motors.

I assumed there is a motor driver already there and that the switches are low current. wouldn't you assume that turning on both at once would necessitate nothing more than closing both control circuits at once?

well i won't stop you from doing this the hard way, now I'm curious to see how overcomplicated this can become.

[StereoInstaller1]

using a window switch to short a window switch that's already there? why would you try running the motor directly? if that's how it works now, then the switches can obviously handle it. These aren't 100A starter motors.

I assumed there is a motor driver already there and that the switches are low current. wouldn't you assume that turning on both at once would necessitate nothing more than closing both control circuits at once?

well i won't stop you from doing this the hard way, now I'm surious to see how overcomplicated this can become.

Well, now I see what part of this story you are missing: the window motors on an E30 are directly driven: no relays or controllers involved. Normal voltage reversal switches (SPDT), that is all.

So as far as my "overcomplicating" things goes, no, I am just building the circuit BMW should have included in the first place, plus an automatic rollup module with temperature venting.

Luke

[el_gringo]

guys guys guys! stop freakin fightin in my damn thread lol

im not going to make these switches, luke and graves are. they had the idea as well and they are going for it.

end of story, thread, and all following bullshit!

[AndrewBird]

They aren't fighting. If Luke was fighting, Wiglaf would be complaining that his keyboard fried because he cried all over it.

Why not just use two relays, one for up, one for down, that bridge the stock switches and that are controlled by another switch? Seems simple enough.

[AndrewBird]

Here is a diagram of what you would need to do.

(Click to enlarge)


I didn't show the brown wires coming off of the left and right switches, so don't get confused. They aren't needed. You do need to connect one brown wire (#5) on the single switch if you want it to light up though.

[george graves]

I think you might have a short if someone was rolling up one window and down the other.

[AndrewBird]

No, it wouldn't. The up and down circuits are completely isolated from one another, so there is no way they could short.

The wires going to terminal 3 is power to the switch. Then #1 and #8 are power up and down going to the motor.

[george graves]

Hmmm. The way I'm looking at it is that if one switch is pressed, giving power to either one or eight, the other switch will be "resting" on ground at the same pin. And since you now have them wired together....sparks.

I'm must not be reading it right if you are sure. My eyes are tired.

[AndrewBird]

You are right. I just tested a switch and the motor is grounded on both sides when nothing is being pressed (smacks forehead). A few diodes in the right places would fix it though.

[92 mtechnic cabrio]

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=119419Forgot to add that George and I are likely to collaborate on this.

I am an installer, I don't like to build circuit boards (but certainly can) and don't like to do basic assembly. My skills are too valuable to waste time on stuff normally paid $10/hr.

Luke

So you're going to let George take care of that part ;)