dont read this... i promise

[robert325is]

today I pulled a 10 inch kicker comp sub out of a boat I just bought

It already has a box, but the carpeting is coming off...

I have no idea about sound stuff...
my system as of now consists of stock speakers and a pioneer head unit..
i don't have an amp and i have no idea about installation or anything...
what do you recommend?

EDIT: 12/1/04
look at the last post ASAP

[e30Matt]

Throw it in the garbage and forget about it. 8)

[Kruzen]

i think its ugly, and you should give it to me.

[StereoInstaller1]

Hey Robert
1. Do you have a table saw and a cabinet stapler? Do you have skills necessary to build a nice cabinet? If so, get Jordan to give you the specs of the box we built for his car, put it together.
2. Go buy
A. One cheap 2 channel amp. MUST be bridgeable, have variable low pass crossover. Look at the fuses it has, you want to see 30 amps minimum. I like "Extreme" from DEI. Call around to DEI dealers.
B. Some kind of 8 gauge amp kit for your wire OR 8 feet of 8 gauge, a AGU fuse holder (with 40 amp fuse) a set of RCA cables about 15 feet, remote wire the same length as your RCA's and about 3 feet of 8 gauge ground wire. Don't buy this stuff anywhere but a car stero shop. Expect to spend aboutr $25 bux.

Lemme know when you have your goodies...box is the big trick.
I can build you one and ship it to you, but not for a week or two, and It will run you about $200 for the box and a pretty panel to make it all look good. I sell the amp and kit too, but both will run you like $150 from me.

You would have to get a MO too, I don't take checks or Paypal.
Luke

[colt325e]

Thats not going to give you very much bass, just a little fill. That is a very inexpensive sub you can buy it online (cbrstereo.com) for $50. I'd buy another one along with a Hifonics Zeus ZX4400. Itd be pretty inexpensive overall, you could probably get something better, but thats one possibility.

[colt325e]

Is your sub 4ohm or 8?

[StereoInstaller1]

As far as Colt's comments above go, if you buy the box and amp from me, install it EXACTLY as I describe, I will guarantee you will be able to produce 120db at 25Hz, using the industry standard AudioControl SA3055 analyser and IASCA test CD, MAX DB2.
Whiile that may or may not be considered loud, it is certainly more than just "fill" and will provide plenty of boom for most music, with terrific clarity.

I would prefer to see you build it yourself, and have the joy of creating something with your own two hands.

I would be willing to help with any questions you may have.

The amp I suggested is one of hundreds of good cheapo amps on the market today, made somewhere in the Pacific Rim.

Of course, there are many many choices out there. I personally feel most people would be satisfied with the combo I am suggesting, having satisfied literally thousands of customers in my 24 years as a professional stereo installer.
Luke

[robert325is]

ok...

it is a 10 inch Kicker Comp 8OHM sub...

I have that and a box and a Pioneer head unit...

whats next?

[808BMW]

ok...

it is a 10 inch Kicker Comp 8OHM sub...

I have that and a box and a Pioneer head unit...

whats next?

An amp, a new box, and wiring.

[robert325is]

ok.. so i ordered a Phoenix Gold Octane-R 2.5:2 amp today so i should have that in a few days... im gonna pick up the wiring tomorrow

here's the specs on the amp...

• 2 channel power amplifier
• 12dB HP/LP fixed crossovers
• Full range aux output
• Dimensions: 8.75L x 10.875W x 2.25H


80W x 2(4 ohm stereo)
250W x 1(4 ohm bridged)

[808BMW]

You didn't mention anything about a new box...

If you leave it in the box it's in right now, you will be disappointed. I put 2 12's in a prefab box with a bigger amp than that in my trunk, and it was a total letdown (good thing I didn't spend any money).

The box is more important than the sub or amp. Forward firing into the cabin, sealed from the trunk, is going to be the only way to get noticable output from that combo.

[robert325is]

im just going to leave it in the box i have for now.. because i have no time or money to make a different one right now...

ill probably build a new box around thanksgiving

[robert325is]

ok so i have the wiring, the box, sub, and amp.... where do i start out my wiring?

can anyone give me a complete walkthrough or something?

[DSchultz325e]

disconnect the ground from the battery. first thing is to choose a spot close to the battery to mount the fuse. take out the side carpet moulding from the trunk and set it aside. i chose a little lip right above the battery. you have to be very careful where you mount it because the fuel tank is right next to it. i'll take a pic tomorrow of how mine is wired up tomorrow because my car is at my dad's house right now. anyway, once the fuse is mounted, go ahead and attach the remainder using a connector to the positive battery post. run the cable around the trunk hinge, over the wheel well, and run it along the side until you reach the wall. if you choose, depending on where you are going to mount the amp, run the wire around the rear seat panel and cut a small hole through the back cardboard moulding to run the wire through. attach a connector on the end and it is ready to be plugged in, but do not plug it in yet.

now you need to choose a proper ground point. it is necessary that you grind the point down to the bare metal so you can achieve a good ground. i chose to use the other side of the trunk, right above where the jack sits on that little bracket. since i don't have the car right now, i can't name any good points off the top of my head that are pre-drilled, but it shouldn't be too difficult to find one. ok, anyway, with my ground point, run the ground wire just like the power wire was ran (around the trunk hinge, over the wheel well, and through the back).

finally you need to hook up the RCA cables and the remote line to the head unit. i posted on this earlier, but...ok plug in the RCAs and connect the remote wire to the amp. keep the remote wires and RCAs together for this. remove the seat bottom, find where the wiring loom is that the battery cables run through. run the cables through there. the RCA cables don't get along with the power cables so after they are run through, head towards the center console with the RCAs. I believe they will run just fine down the side of the center console. They should be able to fit around the heater duct and fish out of the head unit mounting spot. Once they are up front, plug the RCAs into the head unit and connect the remote wire.

Now all that is left is to hook up the connections to the amp. Hook up the positive to the amp, hook up the ground to the amp, and reconnect the ground to the battery post. Everything is good to go. This was strictly from memory of 4 years ago when I first got my car, so if i forgot some stuff, please forgive me. If I followed a procedure that isn't within "pro audio tech installer" spec, flame away. HTH.

[DSchultz325e]

i forgot to add, punch out your ski hole. I tried to run it without my ski hole punched out and it sounded like crap. Honestly, mine sounded just fine firing rearwards (i did have my trunk completely dynamatted, though. it helps when you are nice to the guys. i was able to get a complete dynamat trunk kit that goes for about 120 for 50 bucks :D ) the sub will be just fine. I used to have that sub in the 15" version. Even with the poorly constructed box it was in, it was still plenty loud. good luck.