^ just fyi, changing these shocks is a major bitch. Getting them out is okay but to get them back in there's a little metal clip you have to feed through at just the right angle, making sure it doesn't fling off into oblivion all the while doing this through the cage that makes up the arms of the folding top. It takes some patience and needle nose and I don't recommend doing it at night :up:
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1991 325iC - Rear Cover Questions
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Poor OP, sorry for jacking the thread. We need a vert sub forum.
Thanks again everyoneMike
Cary, NC
Current Rides
1991 325iC - For Sale
2006 M3 Cabriolet
Past Rides
2000 323i Touring - Daily Driver
1994 325is (S50) - Fast Car
1998 Z3 - Fun Car
1986 325e (i engine conversion)
1969 Mustang Mach 1
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My vert was converted from power to manual top as well. I had a guy on here who was parting out a vert cut out the entire hinge section along with shock mounts and send them to me. My question now is once i cut the brackets loose how should i go about attaching them to my car? Originally they were spot welded but that's not an option for me. I had planned on just bolting them but wondering if anyone on here has a better idea. Here's a pic of the hinge setup i purchased. Unfortunately the shocks are shot so if anyone can point me in the direction of less expensive replacements I'd greatly appreciate it.
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if you can find these brackets from a parts car, you should just drill out the plug welds. if you can weld, spot weld them back in. otherwise, i think that rivets would be an acceptable option.
you should not be taking the top off to replace those back "struts" or "shocks." simply fold the back section of the top UP. if you don't have a second set of hands available, cut a piece of wood so that it holds the top out of your way. or somehow tie it up to rafters in the garage.
while not struggling with keeping the top on your shoulder, it is much easier to fit/replace those struts. they are simple E-clips so they will fly off - cup with your hand or hold a finger on it when removing. installation is very quick.
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Thanks for the advice! I think I'll probably go with rivets and see how that works. I mainly leave the top down all summer (driving my saloon on rainy days) then switch over to the hardtop for the winter so I really don't do a lot of top raising and lowering. Hence the fact I've been so lackadaisical about mounting the shocks and brackets.
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I have a new set of lower mounts
Originally posted by JWHIII View PostThanks for the advice! I think I'll probably go with rivets and see how that works. I mainly leave the top down all summer (driving my saloon on rainy days) then switch over to the hardtop for the winter so I really don't do a lot of top raising and lowering. Hence the fact I've been so lackadaisical about mounting the shocks and brackets.Mike
Cary, NC
Current Rides
1991 325iC - For Sale
2006 M3 Cabriolet
Past Rides
2000 323i Touring - Daily Driver
1994 325is (S50) - Fast Car
1998 Z3 - Fun Car
1986 325e (i engine conversion)
1969 Mustang Mach 1
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I just noticed, if you look at the pics of how they are mounted to my car on the first page (the gray car) it's with four nuts/bolts straight through. And mine is an early model, before they came out with the power top option, so you know it's an original design
it's a Kenny Powers quote on wheels
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