This is a multi series of which I am showing the documentation of my BMW M10 Standalone Conversion, Here we have the Jeep Idle Control Valve setup sold by 02again. Technically this is part three!
Parts and tools Required:
Standard Motor Products AC151T Idle Control Valve
02again Jeep Idle Control Valve Kit.
3/8 Hose (anything can work, this is a DIY afterall)
A hose to connect the throttle body port to the hose (if you wish to keep the heater portion)
One Allen Key - (I do not know the size but however this is needed if deleting the throttle body heater / installing the bolts supplied by 02again.)
10mm wrench - Removal and installation of original nuts (only needed if you don't wish to take out the studs.)
15mm wrench (for installing the brass port)
Jeep Idle Control Valve Pigtail with connector (source it online or hit the junkyard)
Finally, RTV or a paper gasket for the adapter.
Got everything? Cool let's get started.
Start off by unboxing all of your parts and laying them out, Get familar and then delete the old idle control valve setup (not listed here but use the Idle Control Valve Delete guide by Loki_)
This is what it will look like with the deleted ICV plate if you did this first on a stock engine:
NOTE: You will need to use a paper gasket or RTV to install the new idle control valve adapter.
Once you got it off and then you put the RTV on the new adapter - The new adapter will come with new allen key style screws, This is your time to decide if you want to take out the studs themselves and install the screws or reuse the original 10mm nuts. In my case, I reused the 10mm nuts shown here:
It will be a tight fit if you're reusing the 10mm nuts, However the brass port shown in the photo is a 15mm so you will need to screw it in with your wrench until you physically can't do it anymore, Note that you still might have a air leakage if you're paranoid, That RTV can be used to cover up any leaks in this system if you feel like it but once you get the 3/8 hose attached to the brass port? Now you can go ahead and install the idle control valve.
The provided instructions will tell you to use a wells or niehoff but THEY ARE DISCONTINUED! Use the standard motors product AC151T since it's the closest thing that will work. Also verify that your ecu can run this setup or you will have to use something external! Use the two provided allen key style screws to put the idle control valve into the adapter. You can run the connector up or down based on your preference:
Now? How do we connect the hose to the throttle body?
This is where you have two options: One: You can use the provided heater block plate and just use the provided secondary brass port as intented. This will force you to remove the heater system and risk freezing up the throttle body.
Second: You can shove the secondary brass port into a hose and connect the two hoses that way. (You can reuse one of the hoses from the old setup like i did, However i recommend using a proper hose since you really do not want leaks coming in and ruining the entire idle control valve setup.)
This is what I did for my options:
This may be a messy writeup but I am showing you the idea of how everything will work here. Hopefully folks will give tips and critism for a better installation: It is up to you to decide how you can make this work!
With the next guide, I will show you how to properly install a trigger wheel and rebuild a early model shifter while you're in there. Cheers
Parts and tools Required:
Standard Motor Products AC151T Idle Control Valve
02again Jeep Idle Control Valve Kit.
3/8 Hose (anything can work, this is a DIY afterall)
A hose to connect the throttle body port to the hose (if you wish to keep the heater portion)
One Allen Key - (I do not know the size but however this is needed if deleting the throttle body heater / installing the bolts supplied by 02again.)
10mm wrench - Removal and installation of original nuts (only needed if you don't wish to take out the studs.)
15mm wrench (for installing the brass port)
Jeep Idle Control Valve Pigtail with connector (source it online or hit the junkyard)
Finally, RTV or a paper gasket for the adapter.
Got everything? Cool let's get started.
Start off by unboxing all of your parts and laying them out, Get familar and then delete the old idle control valve setup (not listed here but use the Idle Control Valve Delete guide by Loki_)
This is what it will look like with the deleted ICV plate if you did this first on a stock engine:
NOTE: You will need to use a paper gasket or RTV to install the new idle control valve adapter.
Once you got it off and then you put the RTV on the new adapter - The new adapter will come with new allen key style screws, This is your time to decide if you want to take out the studs themselves and install the screws or reuse the original 10mm nuts. In my case, I reused the 10mm nuts shown here:
It will be a tight fit if you're reusing the 10mm nuts, However the brass port shown in the photo is a 15mm so you will need to screw it in with your wrench until you physically can't do it anymore, Note that you still might have a air leakage if you're paranoid, That RTV can be used to cover up any leaks in this system if you feel like it but once you get the 3/8 hose attached to the brass port? Now you can go ahead and install the idle control valve.
The provided instructions will tell you to use a wells or niehoff but THEY ARE DISCONTINUED! Use the standard motors product AC151T since it's the closest thing that will work. Also verify that your ecu can run this setup or you will have to use something external! Use the two provided allen key style screws to put the idle control valve into the adapter. You can run the connector up or down based on your preference:
Now? How do we connect the hose to the throttle body?
This is where you have two options: One: You can use the provided heater block plate and just use the provided secondary brass port as intented. This will force you to remove the heater system and risk freezing up the throttle body.
Second: You can shove the secondary brass port into a hose and connect the two hoses that way. (You can reuse one of the hoses from the old setup like i did, However i recommend using a proper hose since you really do not want leaks coming in and ruining the entire idle control valve setup.)
This is what I did for my options:
This may be a messy writeup but I am showing you the idea of how everything will work here. Hopefully folks will give tips and critism for a better installation: It is up to you to decide how you can make this work!
With the next guide, I will show you how to properly install a trigger wheel and rebuild a early model shifter while you're in there. Cheers