In addition to the RTV, I would also suggest adding a radiator chemical flush to the list if you're planning to do one. Using your old pump and T-stat for this job is better than using your new one since crap may get dislodged from your 20 year old cooling system and clog one or both of them.
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Timing Belt / Water Pump DIY - Step by Step Pictures
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Originally posted by E30_(1st Musk)_ View Posthow do u make sure that both shafts are aligned properly? or in other words both are placed on the lines?sigpic
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Originally posted by 91greg325i View PostThere should be a small mark on the head, the cam gear, the crank, and the aluminum cover. They all should line up when it is in the right position. There might be some pictures of the marks visible in my posts, I can't confirm that though. Next time I do a timing belt, I'll be sure to take pictures. Also, they shouldn't move that much unless you really wrench on them, at least thats what I've experienced.
how do you move it. so it is in the correct position?]
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Originally posted by E30_(1st Musk)_ View Postthisis where i messed up. i moved it freehand without the belt(jus a bit) on. but i think i corrected myself. but if both of them line up i should be safe correct?
how do you move it. so it is in the correct position?sigpic
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^yeah, seems to go with the territory. I screwed up while doing the timing belt myself... I didn't have the stupid 32mm wrench for the fan clutch and tried to just take the water pump off with the fan still attached. Well that worked...except it was a HUGE PITA and the water pump was extremely old and brittle. I now have a mostly broken water pump with the fan & pulley still attached which need to come off somehow. Ugh. I think I'm going to sawzall through that biatch. Other than that, replacing the timing belt was pretty easy. I also found out my dist. cap & rotor are ancient! I think the cap is original to the car (date stamped '84 & VERY worn) and the rotor is date stamped '88 and also quite worn. It's amazing the car runs... but I'll be getting rid of all that soon.1997 540i/6 - stock
1985 325 - M50NV - Getrag 250 - 2.79 LSD - MS2/e -LC-1 - 750cc injectors - Blunttech Manifold - HX35 - AEM UEGO
1991 318i - M50NV - Getrag 240 - 4.10 open - e36 rack - Smileys - 55w 5000k HIDs
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This needs a sticky!
I wish i wouldve seen this earlier today as I did my timing belt this afternoon. To my dismay, my car didnt have a belt tensioner spring.. at all.My only hope is that the local dealer has one in stock.Originally posted by ebelementsAlso, for those who don't know, negative camber is the greatest thing since sliced bread(panera). Even tire wear is for city busses and the elderly.
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Originally posted by sticksdaman View PostThis needs a sticky!
I wish i wouldve seen this earlier today as I did my timing belt this afternoon. To my dismay, my car didnt have a belt tensioner spring.. at all.My only hope is that the local dealer has one in stock.1997 540i/6 - stock
1985 325 - M50NV - Getrag 250 - 2.79 LSD - MS2/e -LC-1 - 750cc injectors - Blunttech Manifold - HX35 - AEM UEGO
1991 318i - M50NV - Getrag 240 - 4.10 open - e36 rack - Smileys - 55w 5000k HIDs
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I got the 32mm wrench described in this writeup at REI. Removing the fan ended up being a two-man job with one of us on either side of the car: one guy on the passenger side immobilizing the WP pulley with a big screwdriver plus a long-handle combination wrench for leverage; me on the driver side using the 32mm bicycle wrench with a long-handle combination wrench on it for leverage.
STICKY!
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Yea i'm positive it wasnt there to begin with. The last place that did it mustv'e lost it.... Looks like its gunna have to wait until this weekend before I can get back to it.Originally posted by ebelementsAlso, for those who don't know, negative camber is the greatest thing since sliced bread(panera). Even tire wear is for city busses and the elderly.
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