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Timing Belt / Water Pump DIY - Step by Step Pictures

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    #16
    In addition to the RTV, I would also suggest adding a radiator chemical flush to the list if you're planning to do one. Using your old pump and T-stat for this job is better than using your new one since crap may get dislodged from your 20 year old cooling system and clog one or both of them.
    sigpic

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      #17
      This post combined with the Bentley and about 20 calls to my father in law was very helpful in tackling my timing belt replacement over the weekend. Many thanks to the OP for taking the time to put it together.

      +1 vote to make this a sticky.
      Originally posted by kronus
      would be in depending on tip slant and tube size

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        #18
        Nice write-up . I did my water pump back in the day with the hood attached to the car, in my mom's driveway in a well-heeled residential Philadelphia suburb.
        Everyone should change-out a water pump. Such a priveledge. "Bravo"

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          #19
          how do u make sure that both shafts are aligned properly? or in other words both are placed on the lines?
          ]

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            #20
            Originally posted by E30_(1st Musk)_ View Post
            how do u make sure that both shafts are aligned properly? or in other words both are placed on the lines?
            There should be a small mark on the head, the cam gear, the crank, and the aluminum cover. They all should line up when it is in the right position. There might be some pictures of the marks visible in my posts, I can't confirm that though. Next time I do a timing belt, I'll be sure to take pictures. Also, they shouldn't move that much unless you really wrench on them, at least thats what I've experienced.
            sigpic

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              #21
              Originally posted by 91greg325i View Post
              There should be a small mark on the head, the cam gear, the crank, and the aluminum cover. They all should line up when it is in the right position. There might be some pictures of the marks visible in my posts, I can't confirm that though. Next time I do a timing belt, I'll be sure to take pictures. Also, they shouldn't move that much unless you really wrench on them, at least thats what I've experienced.
              thisis where i messed up. i moved it freehand without the belt(jus a bit) on. but i think i corrected myself. but if both of them line up i should be safe correct?

              how do you move it. so it is in the correct position?
              ]

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                #22
                Great writeup! I'm about to do a timing belt on one of my cars. I'm another vote for a sticky.
                sigpic

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by E30_(1st Musk)_ View Post
                  thisis where i messed up. i moved it freehand without the belt(jus a bit) on. but i think i corrected myself. but if both of them line up i should be safe correct?

                  how do you move it. so it is in the correct position?
                  You should be able to move the cam gear by hand, the crankshaft should move with a 22mm wrench. You are correct in assuming that if both the cam gear/head and the crank/notch in the aluminum by the crank are lined up, it is correct. You can send me pictures of the belt on before you put everything back together if you want and I can confirm that is is correct.
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                    #24
                    Surely more people replace a timing belt on their E30 than install Vaders in it... make this a sticky!
                    Originally posted by kronus
                    would be in depending on tip slant and tube size

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                      #25
                      I'm actually in the process of doing my timing belt right now, I would recommend throwing in the cam seal replacement to this DIY next time, since all you have to do is take out the cam sprocket and it's right there.
                      -Darius (aka DiscoDoughnuts on other forums)

                      dude man bro...

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                        #26
                        ^yeah, seems to go with the territory. I screwed up while doing the timing belt myself... I didn't have the stupid 32mm wrench for the fan clutch and tried to just take the water pump off with the fan still attached. Well that worked...except it was a HUGE PITA and the water pump was extremely old and brittle. I now have a mostly broken water pump with the fan & pulley still attached which need to come off somehow. Ugh. I think I'm going to sawzall through that biatch. Other than that, replacing the timing belt was pretty easy. I also found out my dist. cap & rotor are ancient! I think the cap is original to the car (date stamped '84 & VERY worn) and the rotor is date stamped '88 and also quite worn. It's amazing the car runs... but I'll be getting rid of all that soon.
                        1997 540i/6 - stock
                        1985 325 - M50NV - Getrag 250 - 2.79 LSD - MS2/e -LC-1 - 750cc injectors - Blunttech Manifold - HX35 - AEM UEGO
                        1991 318i - M50NV - Getrag 240 - 4.10 open - e36 rack - Smileys - 55w 5000k HIDs

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                          #27
                          This needs a sticky!

                          I wish i wouldve seen this earlier today as I did my timing belt this afternoon. To my dismay, my car didnt have a belt tensioner spring.. at all.My only hope is that the local dealer has one in stock.
                          Originally posted by ebelements
                          Also, for those who don't know, negative camber is the greatest thing since sliced bread(panera). Even tire wear is for city busses and the elderly.

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                            #28
                            Originally posted by sticksdaman View Post
                            This needs a sticky!

                            I wish i wouldve seen this earlier today as I did my timing belt this afternoon. To my dismay, my car didnt have a belt tensioner spring.. at all.My only hope is that the local dealer has one in stock.
                            are you sure? mine fell out (and into my coolant/drain pan). It's easy to overlook.
                            1997 540i/6 - stock
                            1985 325 - M50NV - Getrag 250 - 2.79 LSD - MS2/e -LC-1 - 750cc injectors - Blunttech Manifold - HX35 - AEM UEGO
                            1991 318i - M50NV - Getrag 240 - 4.10 open - e36 rack - Smileys - 55w 5000k HIDs

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                              #29
                              I got the 32mm wrench described in this writeup at REI. Removing the fan ended up being a two-man job with one of us on either side of the car: one guy on the passenger side immobilizing the WP pulley with a big screwdriver plus a long-handle combination wrench for leverage; me on the driver side using the 32mm bicycle wrench with a long-handle combination wrench on it for leverage.

                              STICKY!
                              Originally posted by kronus
                              would be in depending on tip slant and tube size

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                                #30
                                Yea i'm positive it wasnt there to begin with. The last place that did it mustv'e lost it.... Looks like its gunna have to wait until this weekend before I can get back to it.
                                Originally posted by ebelements
                                Also, for those who don't know, negative camber is the greatest thing since sliced bread(panera). Even tire wear is for city busses and the elderly.

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