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Timing Belt / Water Pump DIY - Step by Step Pictures
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going to be doing this soon, anyone in LA want to give me a hand? ill buy some pizza and beers??
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Piston dings following valve-dance; how bad it too bad?
Hi - I just suffered an "interference situation"; not a belt breakage - but an idler shaft shearing...same effect - valve/piston collision.
My question: Beyond the usual bent valves (all intake <?>) and broken rockers (all six intakes <!>), I have one badly nicked piston top. I'd say that the depth is as much as a 1/16" in a few locations.
If I grind/polish out the high spots, is there much of a chance of "burning through" the injured piston? Thanks for your opinions.
Paul
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I've used both Graf and Geba in the past. They both have worked fine for me.
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Originally posted by anabolice30 View Post
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Thanks for taking the time to document this
I have done this on my 74 2002 long time ago.
For sure bring it up to TDC.
Remove the valve cover, Both valves should be closed on #1
I know you can just pull the belt where it is and replace but if you move the cam. You will wish you had it @ TDC just makes life easier .
and not that much more work.
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Before I get started on this job (finally -- sourced all the parts I think)
are there any bolts that I should replace with new ones while I do this? Or any other things like that I should keep in mind?
Thanks
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I have a question since my car is an auto (for the time being) and all of the timing belt write-ups assume a manual.
How much trans fluid can I expect to lose from the radiator cooling lines when disconnecting them if my car is flat? Do I need to plug the lines to stop the trans fluid? Should I plan on topping off the trans fluid when done?
Ryan
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You should always get a new bolt/crush washer for the engine block. It's a cheep way to ensure it won't leak.
With regard to the tranny lines. Less will come out of the return VS the supply line, but if you have the front end of the car (and lines) elevated, the fluid should remain in the tranny. Of course you'll loose a bit when first disconnected.
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Maybe it is because I am on my phone but I can't tell why you think that bolt looks broken. Is it because the bolt is so short? That's the correct length. It's just a plug.
As for the transmission lines, I don't know that answer.
Sent from my SGH-T989D using Tapatalk
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Apparently I'm a dumbass and I'm the only one with this question or I'm the only autotragic on this thread but as I was about to remove the radiator I ran into those two transmission hoses you mentioned in step 7. I removed the top one and a little fluid came out, no biggie, but the lower one seems like its gonna keep draining, will it stop on its own or do I need to drain the ATF? Also, I removed the block plug to drain the coolant from the block and it looks like the bolt was broken? Should I get a new bolt?
Or am I being overly cautious? This is my first real attempt at anything big on a car so I just wanna make sure not to hurt her
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Thank you so much for posting this guide. It helped me out when I changed my belt today.
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