Timing Belt / Water Pump DIY - Step by Step Pictures

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  • davvik
    replied
    Glad to hear it wasn't a big problem. Enjoy your e30-ing

    Sent from my XT1032 using Tapatalk

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  • staysideways
    replied
    Yea guys thanks for everyones help. The rotor that i bought the car with looked brand new but to take a closer look to it. It was a after market piece of shit. The middle contact i guees was super weak and it broke right off and i didnt notice it when i put it back so it was maybe giving spark just a couple times then it would get super hot or something and not work replaced that and cranked right up

    1989 E30 325i Sedan Alpine

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  • davvik
    replied
    What about the spark plug wires? Got them all in the right place?

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  • staysideways
    replied
    Yea i put the crank sensor back and the rotor stays just behing #1 when cyl1 is at tdc

    1989 E30 325i Sedan Alpine

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  • davvik
    replied
    Did you put your crank sensor back? Make sure your cap and rotor are correct?

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  • staysideways
    replied
    Originally posted by estoguy
    Okaaaaay... need a bit more info. When you turn the key, Is it turning over at all?
    Yea it cranks fine not valve knock or anything double checked timing twice and its correct,i have bright blue spark and fuel beacause plugs are getting wet

    1989 E30 325i Sedan Alpine

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  • e30onBBSs
    replied
    To get rotor bolts out use lots of penetrating oil, and get yourself one of these with some allen sockets. Great little tool! Put your socket on it and whack it with a hammer, and it turns to the left with all the force of the hammer. Deadblow preferred
    http://www.zoro.com/westward-impact-...m_campaign=PLA

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  • estoguy
    replied
    Okaaaaay... need a bit more info. When you turn the key, Is it turning over at all?

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  • staysideways
    replied
    My car wont start after timing belt

    1989 E30 325i Sedan Alpine

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  • sdhakko
    replied
    Thanks everyone for the help! Couldn't have completed this job without this walk through and the quick responses from everyone here. On the Cam bolt, I ended up saw-zalling the cam adapter off so that I could get a better grip on the stripped bolt, which I used a pipe wrench to get it out. Fun times!

    But learned a lot through doing this, I am excited for the next project, which is probably AC and then shocks/springs.

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  • dnguyen1963
    replied
    Here is a video for those interested.

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  • smokeyyank
    replied
    Only other option would be getting a bolt removal tool. Make sure you get a nice big fulcrum for leverage to get the bolt out with out too much jarring. If that doesn't work I'm kind of at a loss unless you replace the cam......

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  • sdhakko
    replied
    Originally posted by Das Delfin
    My rotor bolts stripped too. Just hammer in a torx socket and take it out with that
    Trying this now, now the torx bolt is stripped also. Used a e12 now trying to hammer/force an e10 on there. Not sure what to do to get the bolt out of this doesn't work.

    Any ideas?
    Last edited by sdhakko; 07-28-2015, 07:39 AM. Reason: spelling

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  • Das Delfin
    replied
    My rotor bolts stripped too. Just hammer in a torx socket and take it out with that

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  • sdhakko
    replied



    Here you can see the broken piece. So I should wait and take it off until after I get the TB off? Also what will I need to replace exactly, since I would like to see if I can hunt this down locally.
    Last edited by sdhakko; 07-28-2015, 07:52 AM.

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