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Eliminating shifter slop

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    Eliminating shifter slop

    I'm sure I'm not the first e30 owner to hate the amount of shifter slop you get with a 260 trans. I'm a previous S2000 owner, and once you experience that shifter feel it is hard to be satisfied with anything else. Inspired by Jordan's post on eliminating shifter slop, I decided to try it myself, albeit with a few tweaks.

    First, you need to remove the carrier itself from the car. This means dropping whatever is in the way - exhaust, ect. Rejoice, for this is the last time you will have to deal with the bitch clip!

    Note that you should NOT need to drop the trans with this method, but until I toss the car on the lift I can't say for certain.






    Shifter slop comes from #2 and #8 allowing the carrier itself to move around too much, and from a little bit of play in #13 and the horrible single shear selector rod. This writeup is going to focus on improving #2, #8, and #13.




    To improve #2 and eliminate the bitch clip, you'll need to head to a hardware store. Take the bitch clip and carrier with you. I selected a bolt that was the same diameter as the bitch clip so I wouldn't need to do any grinding on the trans itself. I measured the carrier bushing, #2, to be ~3/8" ID and ~5/8" OD, so I picked up a brass sleeve bushing that was 11/16" and found a steel sleeve that allowed the bolt to fit snugly. The brass bushing will likely need to be cut down to fit in where #2 goes, and the carrier itself will need to be ground out (particularly the mold line) to allow it to rotate on the bushing.

    When everything is bolted up, the brass bushing should be held in place and kept from rotating as the "ears" on the trans flex enough to clamp it in place. The hole in the carrier should be ground out just large enough that it rotates freely on the brass bushing.



    #8 is stupid, and I hate it. Instead of drilling short sheet metal screws around the bushing itself to make it rock solid, I just filled it with the best silicone gasket stuff ever - Honda Bond.




    Here's everything all bolted together.



    While I was at it I got new clips for the selector rod. I hate this thing. I called Rob over at UUC about the DSSR but he doesn't have one for a 24v swap running the 260 trans :(




    Hopefully before the end of the summer I'll be making my own dual shear rod, or find some other solution. Shifter feels great, though!

    #2
    is there a place you couldd just buy the bushing

    Comment


      #3
      take a video, i can't imagine an e30 shifter without slop. i'll probably try this sometime

      Comment


        #4
        I thought this was going to be another "just replace al of the oem bushings" threads. this is pretty neat, though. :)

        Another issue I have personally with shifter slop: I bought a BMW z3 1.9 shift lever (I now regret), which seems to be two ends joined somehow into one. thing is, the two ends are not solidly joined. you can wiggle the two halves independently of each other. my stock shift lever was joined as solid as a weld. the whole thing felt like one peice. but the brass bushing was worn. i was dissapointed with how much "wiggle" there was in the new lever. anyone else experience this?
        '87 325is [because racecar]
        '81 Kawasaki KZ550 LTD {summer dd}
        '97 Subaru Legacy Outback Limited (winter dd)

        Comment


          #5
          This thread is over two years old.
          How to remove, install or convert to pop out windows
          http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=297611


          Could be better, could be worse.

          Comment


            #6
            still just as useful as day 1! :)
            '87 325is [because racecar]
            '81 Kawasaki KZ550 LTD {summer dd}
            '97 Subaru Legacy Outback Limited (winter dd)

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by wakeboardr42393 View Post
              I thought this was going to be another "just replace al of the oem bushings" threads. this is pretty neat, though. :)

              Another issue I have personally with shifter slop: I bought a BMW z3 1.9 shift lever (I now regret), which seems to be two ends joined somehow into one. thing is, the two ends are not solidly joined. you can wiggle the two halves independently of each other. my stock shift lever was joined as solid as a weld. the whole thing felt like one peice. but the brass bushing was worn. i was dissapointed with how much "wiggle" there was in the new lever. anyone else experience this?
              Same experience with a used Z4 2.5 lever I bought. Newer levers are two pieces joined by a rubber inner section that gets loose with age. My original E30 lever was also a solid metal one, absolutely no slop.

              I've seen an old guide here to fix this. Seperate the lever into 2 pieces and remove all the rubber inner. Then pack the lever with epoxy (use one with a longer cure period to give better working time) and reposition the other piece within it (make sure you get the angle of the connector right). Once the epoxy cures rock hard, it should fix the slop.

              Comment


                #8
                Thing is (now), Garagistic make derlin replacements for both of those bushings which eliminates you needing to fab up anything.
                -Build http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=295277

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by FLG View Post
                  Thing is (now), Garagistic make derlin replacements for both of those bushings which eliminates you needing to fab up anything.
                  http://store.garagistic.com/ocart/bm...hifter-bushing

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by FLG View Post
                    Thing is (now), Garagistic make derlin replacements for both of those bushings which eliminates you needing to fab up anything.
                    Just got new rubbers from blunttech. I'll probably swap in the delrin once the slop returns but with new OEM parts and enough washers on the selector rod, I have eliminated like 95% of the slop. I actually used one large Metal washer between the little yellow plastic ones and then forced the clips on. Feels good. Not a very helpful post but just letting everyone know what worked for me.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by evilnickwong View Post
                      Same experience with a used Z4 2.5 lever I bought. Newer levers are two pieces joined by a rubber inner section that gets loose with age. My original E30 lever was also a solid metal one, absolutely no slop.

                      I've seen an old guide here to fix this. Seperate the lever into 2 pieces and remove all the rubber inner. Then pack the lever with epoxy (use one with a longer cure period to give better working time) and reposition the other piece within it (make sure you get the angle of the connector right). Once the epoxy cures rock hard, it should fix the slop.
                      I was thinking about something like that but wasn't sure if the two halves of shifter were meant to come apart lol. seems like it's be a bit of a hassle to get them apart. next time i have my shifter out imma take a closer look at it and possibly try this.
                      '87 325is [because racecar]
                      '81 Kawasaki KZ550 LTD {summer dd}
                      '97 Subaru Legacy Outback Limited (winter dd)

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Has anyone tried this hondabond in#8?
                        Seems like it might work great and simpler than delrin inserts.

                        87 4dr specE30: Bitsy (lurking above), 89 4dr 325i blau, 91 318is brillrot, 90 325ivertbronzit

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by GillesBigCowboy View Post
                          Has anyone tried this hondabond in#8?
                          Seems like it might work great and simpler than delrin inserts.
                          The delrin inserts are inexpensive, readily available, and easy to install. I can't imagine how hondabond is simpler than that. Seems messy. just my

                          Comment


                            #14
                            The garagistic instructions for the rear bushing are a little vague to me, especially the details on exactly how to grind down the rod and how to dimple the bushing bracket... but maybe that is just me... A few years ago, I did not even know how to change oil.

                            87 4dr specE30: Bitsy (lurking above), 89 4dr 325i blau, 91 318is brillrot, 90 325ivertbronzit

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by GillesBigCowboy View Post
                              The garagistic instructions for the rear bushing are a little vague to me, especially the details on exactly how to grind down the rod and how to dimple the bushing bracket...
                              The rear part of the carrier has a mushroom tip...:giggle: This is designed to "lock" into the OEM rubber mount. To install a delrin bushing you need to carefully remove the tip at the end of the rod so that the tip slides snugly into the delrin bushing. The dimple is an easy way of securing the bushing in the OEM mount. Every action has an equal and opposite reaction right? If you dimple the surface, it's going to make a peak on the inside, thus securing the bushing. To do this, use a BFH, a sharp punch, and a vice.

                              My

                              Do NOT use a solid rear bushing! I have a delrin front carrier bushing, AKG DSSR, new joint at the selector rod, new rear OEM mount, and a new lever and my linkage is TIGHT. You need some play in the linkage so that the force that is put on the linkage has somewhere to go! Unless yo have solid motor and transmission mounts (will still move...), the transmission is going to move a good amount.

                              Also, I will note that my lever was "loose" too :( I even sent the first one back to blunt and the second one I received was only a little better...
                              sigpic

                              A man chooses, a slave obeys... Would you kindly?

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