E30 Vert Power to Manual Conversion Guide
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the springs on the locks can get pulled apart and will not lock. On one of the setups I shortened the spring and basically this makes them stronger or to close up faster and it worked. -
Yes.. Lol at least for me.. I am pretty sure I have something in backwards as the lid won't stay closed not to mention. It won't lock.. But with all the damn rain we have been having I can't really so the work I want to right now..lolLeave a comment:
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Correct.. I added that info at top. Thank you and glad this helped!Leave a comment:
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Went to grab these up today at a local PAP pictures really helped...:D. I Strongly suggest a sticky..Ps all sockets are 11mm for the screws..and the only other thing needed is a Phillips head screwdriver..9.50 for all the partsLeave a comment:
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E30 Vert Power to Manual Conversion Guide
I will be adding part numbers and more info in the next week
OK So I know I was looking for this and could not find it.
It took me a little bit of time to figure this out and get it done.
If you have an Auto Top Vert and want to convert it the Manual top.
Here is what you need:
This is the Driver side Hinge and Lock Assembly and Cable:


This is the Manual release. When you pull the handle and the locks open you have to reach in and un-lock it manually so it doesnt pop open on it's own.

This is the Passenger Side Lock Assembly and Cable:



This is the Handle to open the top: (You dont need to buy the whole speaker cover. I trimmed mine to the opening needed and installed the handle.

Additional pictures. This is also got the Part that goes in to the handle that holds the cables and the end caps:



You will need a 11mm for all the screws..and the only other thing needed is a Phillips head screwdriver. Not very difficult to install or switch over.
http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...05&hg=41&fg=55
and


Also:
Great write-up, thanks! I just completed mine without having seen it. Had a few frustrations, but I'm not a guru mechanic like many on R3V, and was also dealing with semi-non-related problems inherited from the idiot PO.
Tips from my install:
0. The top is easy, you just disconnect all the motor stuff and remove it - no parts are needed. You will need a torch or grinder to cut off the motor-to-top-frame push-arm. The tricky stuff for me was the storage flap.
1. Clean the two cable-released catches, then apply penetrating oil to the hinges and work a tiny bit of vaseline into the sliding surfaces of the moving parts. This will make the catches pop easier when pulling the release handle.
2. Pushing the long cable for the passenger-side catch under the carpet, it can get kinked and caught halfway where the slot in the sheetmetal widens out. If you don't get it through in one push, you will have to pull up the carpet, or use a stiff wire to fish the cable through.
3. If you were a more compulsive personality, you would also weld in the attachments to have the itty bitty shocks that hold up the storage lid. I did not, my shoulder works fine.
4. After some trial and error, I fished the two cables through into the interior from the top storage area and attached them to the release handle there. Don't forget the rubber grommet at the bulkhead.
5. When you pry the little end caps off the cable-to-handle attachment barrels, item 12 in the diagram, they will go flying and you will never see them again. Be careful.
6. You will need to adjust the longer, passenger-side cable via the built-in hex screw thing so the two catches release at the same time. If there is not enough adjustment, you can slot several small washers and use them at the cable-to-catch joint to take up slack.
7. On mine, even with the catches as far up in the chassis slots as they would go, the hoops (item 3 in the diagram) hanging down from the lid were not low enough to latch reliably. I had to install a few fender washers between the lid and the hoops to get the interface right.Last edited by catuned; 02-05-2013, 05:51 PM.Tags: None

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