First I figured members could greatly benefit from a DIY on how to properly ship large and/or heavy items since many of you that have never done it seem to think its very expensive and impossible to do or some of you seem to think that a cardboard box with newspaper is ok to ship a cylinder head with.
Second, there is this misconception that its very expensive and Greyhound is the best option. Greyhound is ok but for many of us they are located in a very bad part of town and not convenient to travel to especially if you don't have a vehicle that can comfortably haul large packages.
My first choice is always www.bikeflights.com, it is a great website for pre-purchasing FedEx shipping labels. They are cheaper than my personal FedEx account and cheaper than the discounted eBay rates.. I recently shipped a transmission and engine wire harness to AZ for $67 and they picked it up from my home.
So, that said I will show you the basics of shipping 2 very common heavy items. Either of which can be applied to other heavy parts such as differentials and engine blocks.
Please feel free to chime in with your own tips and tricks.
Cylinder Heads
I'm convinced that FedEx and UPS see that bright red FRAGILE marking as a challenge instead of a warning. Cylinder heads should be packed very tightly with LOTS of shock absorption. This might seem like overkill, and probably is for core items but for nice stuff don't be cheap, and don't let a buyer convince you otherwise because if it shows up busted its always the shipper that is responsible. Be sure to include this expense when pricing items or quoting shipping costs.
Here is what I use:
- Sterilite Footlocker ($19.95 @ Walmart)
- 3 cans of Great Stuff Large Gap Foam Filler ($3.65 per can - ~$12 total)
- 2 quality garbage bags (.25?)
- 1 8ft 2x4 Stud - ($3 @ Lowes)
- 1 small pack of 1 3/4 inch drywall screws ($3 @ Lowes)
- 10 Plastic Zip Ties ($2 for a pack of 50 @ Lowes)
- Bright Marking Pen / Marker - ($2 @ Walmart)
Total = $43
1. Measure the bottom of your container and cut 3 pieces that will brace the bottom of the container. Uses a power drill to set screws through the outside into the wood to keep it from moving.
2. Spray your expanding foam on the bottom and cover the entire bottom.
3. Double bag your cylinder head with a heavy duty garbage bag and tie it up tight. Set it down into the container surface mating side down.
(With E36 and E46 cylinder heads it is best to remove the long VANOS studs at the front of the head, place them in a ziplock bag and tape them to the head before you bag it as they tend to dig into the plastic sides just slightly.)
4. Measure the inside of the container above the cylinder head and cut 2 pieces of wood. Brace them securely against the head in a position that will insure that it cannot move horizontally or vertically. Put downward pressure on each piece as you secure it with more dry wall screws from the outside. I usually use 3 screws spaced evenly.
5. Mark the screws so the recipient notices them when unpacking the item. Be especially sure to mark it "THIS SIDE UP" with arrows on the sides. Mark the top with "FRAGILE" and "HEAVY" along with the estimated weight. (Driver's really appreciate this and it helps prevent injury.)
6. Use your last can of spray to fill any gaps around the sides of the cylinder head.
7. Add additional packing / padding to the front and rear of the cylinder head just to be safe.
8. Drill holes through the edges on all four sides and use the zip ties to secure the top. (Sorry, lost this picture)
9. Use a liberal amount of packing tape to secure your shipping label to the center of the top. (Lost this pic too.)
Transmissions / Transmission Swaps
1. Measure the width at the bottom of your shipping container.
(I usually measure the length of the transmission and buy whatever is on sale at Walmart)
2. Measure and cut a piece of 2x4 and use 2 long drywall screws with a washer to secure it to the bottom of your transmission to keep it upright in shipping.
3. Reinforce the bottom with a couple pieces of cardboard (or plywood).
4. Double bag the transmission with some heavy duty garbage bags.
5. Set the transmission into the container. Make sure its secure then break out the expanding spray foam. Use liberally.
Usually takes about 4 cans for a transmission.
6. If you are shipping a complete transmission swap or even just the flywheel then double bag it and set it in the bell housing before you apply more foam.
7. Give the foam time to cure before placing the top on it. If you have other smaller items to include once the foam is hardened now is the time to throw them in. Best to also bag them up just in case.
4-5 hours is usually plenty of time
8. Once you place the lid on then use a small drill bit to drill into the lip of the container on all 4 sides. Then use zip ties to secure the lid.
9. Use packaging tape liberally to secure your shipping label to the center of the lid. Like the cylinder head be sure to mark it as "FRAGILE" and indicate with arrows which side is up during shipping. It is very important to mark things over 100lbs as "HEAVY" with the estimated weight.
Second, there is this misconception that its very expensive and Greyhound is the best option. Greyhound is ok but for many of us they are located in a very bad part of town and not convenient to travel to especially if you don't have a vehicle that can comfortably haul large packages.
My first choice is always www.bikeflights.com, it is a great website for pre-purchasing FedEx shipping labels. They are cheaper than my personal FedEx account and cheaper than the discounted eBay rates.. I recently shipped a transmission and engine wire harness to AZ for $67 and they picked it up from my home.
So, that said I will show you the basics of shipping 2 very common heavy items. Either of which can be applied to other heavy parts such as differentials and engine blocks.
Please feel free to chime in with your own tips and tricks.
Cylinder Heads
I'm convinced that FedEx and UPS see that bright red FRAGILE marking as a challenge instead of a warning. Cylinder heads should be packed very tightly with LOTS of shock absorption. This might seem like overkill, and probably is for core items but for nice stuff don't be cheap, and don't let a buyer convince you otherwise because if it shows up busted its always the shipper that is responsible. Be sure to include this expense when pricing items or quoting shipping costs.
Here is what I use:
- Sterilite Footlocker ($19.95 @ Walmart)
- 3 cans of Great Stuff Large Gap Foam Filler ($3.65 per can - ~$12 total)
- 2 quality garbage bags (.25?)
- 1 8ft 2x4 Stud - ($3 @ Lowes)
- 1 small pack of 1 3/4 inch drywall screws ($3 @ Lowes)
- 10 Plastic Zip Ties ($2 for a pack of 50 @ Lowes)
- Bright Marking Pen / Marker - ($2 @ Walmart)
Total = $43
1. Measure the bottom of your container and cut 3 pieces that will brace the bottom of the container. Uses a power drill to set screws through the outside into the wood to keep it from moving.
2. Spray your expanding foam on the bottom and cover the entire bottom.
3. Double bag your cylinder head with a heavy duty garbage bag and tie it up tight. Set it down into the container surface mating side down.
(With E36 and E46 cylinder heads it is best to remove the long VANOS studs at the front of the head, place them in a ziplock bag and tape them to the head before you bag it as they tend to dig into the plastic sides just slightly.)
4. Measure the inside of the container above the cylinder head and cut 2 pieces of wood. Brace them securely against the head in a position that will insure that it cannot move horizontally or vertically. Put downward pressure on each piece as you secure it with more dry wall screws from the outside. I usually use 3 screws spaced evenly.
5. Mark the screws so the recipient notices them when unpacking the item. Be especially sure to mark it "THIS SIDE UP" with arrows on the sides. Mark the top with "FRAGILE" and "HEAVY" along with the estimated weight. (Driver's really appreciate this and it helps prevent injury.)
6. Use your last can of spray to fill any gaps around the sides of the cylinder head.
7. Add additional packing / padding to the front and rear of the cylinder head just to be safe.
8. Drill holes through the edges on all four sides and use the zip ties to secure the top. (Sorry, lost this picture)
9. Use a liberal amount of packing tape to secure your shipping label to the center of the top. (Lost this pic too.)
Transmissions / Transmission Swaps
1. Measure the width at the bottom of your shipping container.
(I usually measure the length of the transmission and buy whatever is on sale at Walmart)
2. Measure and cut a piece of 2x4 and use 2 long drywall screws with a washer to secure it to the bottom of your transmission to keep it upright in shipping.
3. Reinforce the bottom with a couple pieces of cardboard (or plywood).
4. Double bag the transmission with some heavy duty garbage bags.
5. Set the transmission into the container. Make sure its secure then break out the expanding spray foam. Use liberally.
Usually takes about 4 cans for a transmission.
6. If you are shipping a complete transmission swap or even just the flywheel then double bag it and set it in the bell housing before you apply more foam.
7. Give the foam time to cure before placing the top on it. If you have other smaller items to include once the foam is hardened now is the time to throw them in. Best to also bag them up just in case.
4-5 hours is usually plenty of time
8. Once you place the lid on then use a small drill bit to drill into the lip of the container on all 4 sides. Then use zip ties to secure the lid.
9. Use packaging tape liberally to secure your shipping label to the center of the lid. Like the cylinder head be sure to mark it as "FRAGILE" and indicate with arrows which side is up during shipping. It is very important to mark things over 100lbs as "HEAVY" with the estimated weight.
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