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How To Guide - E36 Steering Rack Swap

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    So I have found a bunch of differing information about the actual steering ratios of the varying e36's. I decided to email BMW.
    This is their reply:
    Steering Ratio Turns (Lock-to-Lock)
    1995 M3 variable – 17.6:1 mean 3.0
    1995 and 1996 - other 3 Series 16.8:1 3.4
    1997 3 Series 15.4:1 3.4
    1996 and on M3 variable – 15.6:1 mean
    1996 Z3 13.9:1 2.75
    (the formatting doesn't seem to stay when posting)

    I picked up a 95 M3 rack a while ago, but am still waiting on some parts for install... this makes me think the Z3 would actually be the best one to go with.

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      Originally posted by andrson View Post
      So I have found a bunch of differing information about the actual steering ratios of the varying e36's. I decided to email BMW.
      This is their reply:
      Steering Ratio Turns (Lock-to-Lock)
      1995 M3 variable – 17.6:1 mean 3.0
      1995 and 1996 - other 3 Series 16.8:1 3.4
      1997 3 Series 15.4:1 3.4
      1996 and on M3 variable – 15.6:1 mean
      1996 Z3 13.9:1 2.75
      (the formatting doesn't seem to stay when posting)

      I picked up a 95 M3 rack a while ago, but am still waiting on some parts for install... this makes me think the Z3 would actually be the best one to go with.

      the z3 rack is also shorter, so it may require less turns to turn it lock to lock, but it will not push your wheels out pull them in as much as the e30/e36 rack. If you understand what im saying. The z3 rack only has less turns because the rack itself is shorter

      Comment


        Well, that is something that I had not considered. I figured that the Z3 rack was shorter, but had fewer turns because it had had a 13.9:1 ratio. I'm guessing that you mean there is less travel (mm or inches of movement of the rack per rotation of the steering wheel)? I didn't think to ask them for that statistic.
        Thanks for the reply.

        Comment


          i'm having trouble loosen the the lock nuts on my e36 tie rods where the to tie rod meet. Any ideas?
          sigpic
          24v swapped

          Comment


            Originally posted by e30love View Post
            i'm having trouble loosen the the lock nuts on my e36 tie rods where the to tie rod meet. Any ideas?
            Depending on how rusted they are you may have to break out some PB Blast or a blow torch to loosen them up.

            Comment


              just finished my 95' m3 rack swap on my airbag car. overall pretty straight forward, take the rubber boot off the fire wall so you see what you have to grind down. don't even have to remove the plate, just grind it from the inside out (buy a dremel it makes light work). the big nut on the steering column might have to be extended too. I used e30 inner and outer tie rods e36 lock tabs (a big bigger so it was easier to bend them). steering feels heavier, not what I expected on turning radius but feels quick.

              I'm not one to support people wasting time on modding cars but I got a good deal on the rack so I did the swap, plus most used e30 racks are junk.

              Comment


                Which steering boots do you use? Can you reuse the e30 ones? My e36 rack was bought bare to the bones, no accessories attached.

                And where are the cooper seals (14x20, 16x22) used? Why would I need them?
                Last edited by David325is; 09-06-2008, 05:32 AM.

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                  I replaced my steering rack to an e36 M3 rack, and since the e30 hoses are so long, and the M3 rack has the receiving holes in a different location, I cannot seem to get the hoses tightened on the the appropriate places. I hand tightened the bolts as much as possible, but the space is so tight in there that I cannot get a socket, or even a wrench in there to make it fully tight. Can anyone help me here? RobertK, do you have a solution?

                  I am thinking of just taking my steering rack completely out again (bending back the tabs, taking the bolt off the knuckle, etc) and putting the hoses in while the steering rack is out and putting the rack in with the hoses already tightened on. Should I?

                  Comment


                    Originally posted by graphikg View Post
                    I replaced my steering rack to an e36 M3 rack, and since the e30 hoses are so long, and the M3 rack has the receiving holes in a different location, I cannot seem to get the hoses tightened on the the appropriate places. I hand tightened the bolts as much as possible, but the space is so tight in there that I cannot get a socket, or even a wrench in there to make it fully tight. Can anyone help me here? RobertK, do you have a solution?

                    I am thinking of just taking my steering rack completely out again (bending back the tabs, taking the bolt off the knuckle, etc) and putting the hoses in while the steering rack is out and putting the rack in with the hoses already tightened on. Should I?
                    Just unbolt the rack and move it over to the side so there is enough clearance to tighten up the hoses, then bolt it back up again. I did this when I had to replace the high pressure line after I had the rack already installed. It wasn't necessary to take the whole thing out and I kept the knuckle connected (just had to move to the side, not forward or back).

                    Comment


                      I just installed a 96+ M3 rack. What problems would I see if the rack isn't centered? I ask because I just DIY'ed aligned the toe on the front and now when traveling straight, the steering wheel is at 8 & 2 instead of 9 & 3. The rack was centered (2" extended both ends) and the steering wheel was straight when I installed everything. And since I am pretty much near perfect on my alignment, I just want to reposition the steering wheel to be straight, thus resulting in an off centered rack in relation to the steering wheel.

                      Comment


                        Sounds like you just need to unbolt the steering wheel, bolt it back on in the correct position. Just make sure that you have the same movement turning the wheel one way as you do the other.


                        http://www.cardomain.com/ride/657387

                        Comment


                          Does anyone know what kind of 7/16 2 inch bolts to use and which nuts go on those bolts? I'd like to have all of my parts ready when I start working on the car. Thanks

                          Comment


                            Originally posted by swooper View Post
                            Does anyone know what kind of 7/16 2 inch bolts to use and which nuts go on those bolts? I'd like to have all of my parts ready when I start working on the car. Thanks

                            Any reason to we're using a 7/16 inch bolt instead of a metric bolt?

                            Comment


                              Originally posted by swooper View Post
                              Any reason to we're using a 7/16 inch bolt instead of a metric bolt?
                              We live in America and America is still stuck on using the wrong unit of measurement.

                              I used two M10 x 50 hex head bolts. FYI, I had to enlarge the holes where the grounded rivets were removed on the steering knuckle to make them fit.

                              Comment


                                Originally posted by David325is View Post
                                We live in America and America is still stuck on using the wrong unit of measurement.

                                I used two M10 x 50 hex head bolts. FYI, I had to enlarge the holes where the grounded rivets were removed on the steering knuckle to make them fit.
                                I went to the hardware store last night and tried both metric and standard size bolts of different thread pitches and the 7/16 inch bolt seems to fit the nut 72 11 1 977 925 the best, which is odd.

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