How To Guide - E36 Steering Rack Swap

[Justin B]

What I did for my non airbag '90 cabby-

Dont know about the HP line, I'm not using PS. From what I gathered though, people were able to use their e30 line somehow.
Using spacers I cut for the rack, and the knuckle, it went together fine but had tight spots I found at the first U joint out of the firewall self clearancing a little. Some file work on the edges and it's all good. You're going to need to cut the linkage and space it otherwise the linkage will be too long and the splines lock screw (at the rack) will not locate properly.
Im using offset cabs and the whole e36 rack assembly including tie rods.


Dont mind the mess, I cleaned up shortly after I took the pic :D

[jolt1994]

how much different is this process on a 91 318i w/airbag? accually it sounds easier since i have a airbag

from what im reading i dont really have to buy anything except a E36 R&P

i wont have to mod the Knuckle, but do i still need spacers??? yes on the sub frame


this job is intimidating me and i just want to make sure i have everything i need before i start.


Edited in RED

now im pumped and cant wait to do this!

[alane]

Just to clarify.. the 96-99 M3 has a 3.2 ratio just like the standard e36? Only the 95 M3 has the 3.0 ratio?

[87e30]

Just to clarify.. the 96-99 M3 has a 3.2 ratio just like the standard e36? Only the 95 M3 has the 3.0 ratio?

search for a thread made by wheelhop.

[alane]

search for a thread made by wheelhop.

You sure that’s the right name? It sais invalid user when I searched. I also looked for users that started with wheel and there were no close resemblances.

Thanks for the help.

[87e30]

You sure that’s the right name? It sais invalid user when I searched. I also looked for users that started with wheel and there were no close resemblances.

Thanks for the help.

My bad. He fails. It's wh33lhop

[alane]

My bad. He fails. It's wh33lhop

Found it.. Thanks!

[bzboardz]

just did the install this weekend, was lazy and did it over two days. Here is my knuckle used m10 bolts and .5in spacers. I should have added a washer or two as it was a little on the short side.

[Pennyw1se]

Can anyone confirm this post on E30tech:

The knuckle doesn't need to be modified if you mount the rack on the non-PAS rack mounting holes.

Have fitted E36, E46 and Z3 racks this way with no problems.

Has everyone been using the inside holes on the tabs? Anyone try the outside holes with no mod to the knuckle on a non-airbag E30?

Also, does anyone know where specifically the knuckle is being shaven to avoid binding? I'd rather do it before I install the knuckle.

[Pennyw1se]

(Re-using the pics from the original posting. Very good job OP, by the way.)

Well, I went ahead and dove in this weekend. Wasn't too bad and definitely something that can be done by yourself.

My personal notes, on an 88 no-airbag E30, standard E36 steering rack, using 3/8" bolts for the knuckle, and using the spacer kit sent from E30tech (or DungeonMotorsport):

1. Bending the tabs was a no brainer. Very easy to bend and there was absolutely no signs of damage to the tabs. Just bend them far enough so you can clear the oil pan. Bend them a bit and try to pull the rack out. If it doesn't clear bend them a bit more. Once the new rack is in it is very easy to tap them back into place with a rubber mallet and there were absolutely no issues with bolt alignment.

2. After grinding the knuckle rivets the knuckle wouldn't split so, as shown
below, I cut the knuckle at the rivet with a reciprocating saw(sawzall). I then drilled the end with the rivet head using a 3/8" bit using the rivet head "hole" in the second pic as a guide.


The end without the rivet head was easier since it has a plastic spacer. A little bit of drilling and it fell off.

3. Get rid of the inevitable binding issues with the knuckle out. I did it with the knuckle in because I wasn't sure what needed grinding but there will be some bouncing while grinding down the knuckle that can be avoided by having the knuckle on a vice. Much cleaner grinding too. As the pic below shows, you can grind either of two areas. Grind either side of the area in red. I chose the area to the left. Grind so that its rounded out and it loses the squared end. The second arrow area (at the 3 o'clock position) should be grounded down by a few MMs as well.
What needs to be grinded:

Original:


4. I didn't see mention of this but you also need E36 boots since the rack ends are larger than the E30 rack. The rack I had was complete with good boots so I used zip-ties to tie them down.

5. Re-using the E30 high-pressure hose works great.

I'll add more if I can remember anything else.

[bzboardz]

I was almost going to do the same thing in your point #2 but first stuck a flat head screw driver and hammered it in to wedge the two apart instead

[///digitalme]

can you use the e36 tie rods on an e30? meaning im picking one up with good tierods and end links or will i need e30 tie rods to fit?

[sharky]

E36 outer tie rods work, that what I use.

[Zmann42087]

So, in retrospect, you would have bought the E30 HP line?
Also, I don't need to replace the ends of the low pressure lines, do I? Just buy some new hose, right?

Yeah.. I would have probably used an E30 HP line and you do not have to replace the LP line ends. just clean them up and get some new hose.

Does anybody happen to know the part number for the E30 high-pressure line?

[drinaldis]

Has anyone fit stops to the rack to limit the steering lock? At full lock my tires hit the frame.