My Z3 rack did not have provisions for lock plates either.
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How To Guide - E36 Steering Rack Swap
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Please help. I'm looking for a Z3 (holy grail) rack to put in my e30 M3. After ~$1300 and 3 weeks of buying and returning racks to BMA I can't find one. It seems no matter what part number I order, what re-manufacturer I use, I wind up getting a rack that turns 3+ revolutions lock to lock and translates 45mm per revolution. Is there a definitive source or method of identifying the Z3 rack? I'm losing time and patience.
Thanks,
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There's a little section on this forum. It's called "want to buy". $200-$250. $300 if the seller is being greedy.
I haven't driven a z3 rack e30, but I hear they are a bit too darty on the free way. I still suspect that the m3 rack is the best all around rack for anything other then autocross.Originally posted by Matt-Bhey does anyone know anyone who gets upset and makes electronics?
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Originally posted by RobertK View PostStep 21: Use a wrench to try and make the rack as even as possible. Use a tape measure to ensure both sides of the rack are even.
I'm trying to think why this step is necessary to align the rack on center. Unless I'm missing something, there is nothing about the steering column that can't be changed by removing the steering wheel and re-centering it, right? You're going to most likely mess it up when you go to get the universal joints onto the splines anyways.
Anyone care to correct me?Originally posted by Matt-Bhey does anyone know anyone who gets upset and makes electronics?
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Originally posted by george graves View PostJust finished a e36 m3 rack. Haven't driven it yet.
I'm trying to think why this step is necessary to align the rack on center. Unless I'm missing something, there is nothing about the steering column that can't be changed by removing the steering wheel and re-centering it, right? You're going to most likely mess it up when you go to get the universal joints onto the splines anyways.
Anyone care to correct me?
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Ah, great - thanks for confirming. I know the turn signal cancel is on the wheel - but I wasn't sure if there was something thing else that needed to be aligned by me before I take it to get an alignment.
BTW - with a m30, the rack can be pulled out with out bending the tabs - plenty of room.
Thanks for the write up Robert. It's simple in hind-sight, but it's always nice to see what's required for parts planning and tools.Originally posted by Matt-Bhey does anyone know anyone who gets upset and makes electronics?
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Originally posted by Janderson View PostGeorge, that part fucked me up, too! I got everything finished, and was like "oh shit! I didn't measure the rack!" and was driving myself crazy, counting the amount of turns from lock-to-lock and checking my steering wheel, and then kind of went "wait..."-Alex
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Originally posted by george graves View PostI haven't driven a z3 rack e30, but I hear they are a bit too darty on the free way. I still suspect that the m3 rack is the best all around rack for anything other then autocross.
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The knuckle spacer needs to be around .55 of an inch.
Don't forget to grind down the binding arm. Grind down MORE than you think you need to because ppl here said "only a little bit" or "just until the square edges are gone". I'm happy I grinded mine down quite a bit only to find it was "just enough". I used an angle grinder and it took a while. But the most stubborn part for me was getting the old rivets out.
Spacers for the steering rack itself are also a little bigger than half an inch. I ended up using some spare nuts I had lying around and it works perfectly fine.
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