How To Guide - E36 Steering Rack Swap

[irish44j]

can the lockplate for the inner tierod ends be re-used once removed, or do they have to be replaced with new ones? Going to tackle this sooner or later. The e36 rack sitting on my workbench is calling to me......

[drumad]

You're probably better off getting new ones. They're cheap insurance.

[cobraken]

You're probably better off getting new ones. They're cheap insurance.

Or you can try Locktight!

[davem]

So i have a spare steering knuckle that i had a friend grind off the rivets for me. I ordered the e30tech spacer and hardware set and the bolts don't slip through one side of the steering knuckle. It's like the holes in one end are smaller...but i see no mention of drill/elongating the holes???

[Aahj]

They fit, just have to play with them like puzzle pieces. Need to be arranged in a certain order to fit together. Don't remember how I did it off the top of my head though, sorry. But it can be done!

[ToPLeSS(e30)FeinD]

So i have a spare steering knuckle that i had a friend grind off the rivets for me. I ordered the e30tech spacer and hardware set and the bolts don't slip through one side of the steering knuckle. It's like the holes in one end are smaller...but i see no mention of drill/elongating the holes???

I had the same problem when I did mine. I ended up drilling the smaller side out to fit the bigger side just to avoid problems. I don't know why this problem exists but it's a small one that can be moved around.

[ToPLeSS(e30)FeinD]

Mine was like this. I adjusted the steering lash (big bolt i think 22mm? on the bottom of the rack) and it acts like normal now. Just a very slight adjustment was needed.

What is this adjustment you speak of? I had that slow return problem until I got an alignment but for some reason now I have an incredible amount of bump steer especially in high speed turns. How does this adjustment operate and what direction did you spin?

[davem]

I had the same problem when I did mine. I ended up drilling the smaller side out to fit the bigger side just to avoid problems. I don't know why this problem exists but it's a small one that can be moved around.

ya i never came across any need for drilling in any diys i read so i was a little confused...

[irish44j]

got my e36 rack all installed (after much cursing) with the spacers, etc.

Now my steering feels heavy and doesn't return well to center.

The e36 rack has TWO big bolts on the bottom:

One is a 22mm flat head, which apparently adjusts lash. It was tight when I got the rack, and once loosened at all it gets REAL loose (like, turn-by-hand loose).

Also there is a 2nd bolt, about 45* around the rack directly above it. It's a smaller (17mm) nut with a circle around it and little tick marks. This bolt is not present on an e30 rack. Any ideas as to what it is for? Centering position perhaps?

Anyhow, the car is driveable, and the steering quicker, but it definitely feels heavy and doesn't return well to center....

suggestions?

[jrobie79]

I just scooped a 1.9L z3 rack for $120 with only 88K on the car it came from...CANT wait to put this in my car

[defaultName]

Last Friday I swapped in a Z3 steering rack.

Everything went pretty smoothly and there looked to be barely any binding in the steering knuckle.

The problem's started happening when I drove it. I didn't really have an issue with binding so much as the car pulling violently left and right. It fells as if someone is jerking on the steering wheel. I would turn the steering wheel very slightly and then it would continue to turn on its own until it locks

I put the car back in the garage and tried to grind down the steering knuckle but it didn't feel or look like it was binding very much so I wasn't sure how much to really remove. I drove the car again and it didn't feel much better at all.

I'm really not sure what could be causing this. Would a binding steering knuckle cause the car to pull from side to side, because I thought it would make it harder to turn?

I even tried to check if my tie rods were touching my wheel but there seems to be enough room. Power steering has been deleted as well.

Any ideas?

(pic of the car just because)

[ToPLeSS(e30)FeinD]

^ this is also the problem I am having, only not to this extreme. I thin it might have to do with one of the adjustment bolts on the bottom of the rack. I have yet to do research but I'll share if I find anything. Does anybody know what that 17mm bolt does on the front side of the rack?

[inwoo]

Hi everyone... I'm getting ready to do this mod, and i have a question that i don't believe was answered yet.

What's the best way to grind out the firewall area without removing the engine? Should i go from the bottom or from the top? Should i remove the brake booster?

Is it easy to get to that area to grind out?

[defaultName]

^ this is also the problem I am having, only not to this extreme. I thin it might have to do with one of the adjustment bolts on the bottom of the rack. I have yet to do research but I'll share if I find anything. Does anybody know what that 17mm bolt does on the front side of the rack?

Have you had a proper alignment done after your swap?

I have had 2 people suggest that it is poor alignment causing the problem.

[ToPLeSS(e30)FeinD]

Ya I had an alignment and it deleted the slow return problem I had. But the issue regarding the inline instability feels like its something else. Feels like something is loose but ive been through the setup three times and checked through everything to ensure it was done right.