sounds like you have alot of caster, and might have positioned the rack a little too far downward
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How To Guide - E36 Steering Rack Swap
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My feedback:
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=186328
http://e30tech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=74911
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Originally posted by kwseattle View PostYeah, I'm not sure, haha.
On another note, I'm running it unpowered at the moment and MAN is it hard to steer. Everyone is saying "oh you won't notice it above 5 mph!" This is definitely BS in my case. It could be the fact that I need to get it aligned, or maybe it's my E36 M3 front suspension + large wheels.
Anybody know if misaligned front toe would cause a massive increase in steering effort? It isn't pulling at all, but it re-centers very aggressively and there also seems to be a huge amount of bump steer. ANYTHING on the road surface will almost violently jerk the wheel (correct me if I'm wrong on using the term bump steer). I'm guessing (it looked like it) that it is very toe-in at the moment.
E36m sucks terrible to drive without power steering.
If your car has not been aligned it us dangerous to drive and should be aligned before anything else.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using TapatalkOBD1 M54/M52TU swap as a M50b25
Z4 non powered steering rack fits e30
Euro e46 2005/6 320d 6mt gearbox into E30 with M20 hardy and beck 1985 327s engine
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I looked at it again today, my right front toe is CRAZY in. Like visible from a distance. That'd be fault of my hasty tape-measurements. So I definitely won't be driving it anymore until I can get it in for an alignment. I've only really driven it so far to test how the new rack has felt. @bataangpinoy: I'm not sure how I could've mounted the rack too far down, that isn't really possible.
Originally posted by Wanganstyle View PostE36m sucks terrible to drive without power steering.
Originally posted by FLG View PostGet an alignment first. Do you track the car at all? I run - 3.5 degrees of camber and zero the toe. Is perfect.
If stock everything you'll just be able to adjust toe
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Front camber is set probably at about -2.5 degrees, not sure. It looks pretty aggressive. Think I should run zero toe or slightly out? It's mostly a daily driver, so I'm not sure.Last edited by kwseattle; 02-11-2014, 08:39 PM.
Alpinweiss II 88 325is | M20 | 5 Lug Conversion
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Kyle
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Originally posted by kwseattle View PostAlignment is done, it's set at zero toe. I forgot to ask what the camber was, haha.
Still a bitch to turn, though, that power steering is definitely being reconnected asap. That would be fault of the M3 suspension.
I tried that power steering delete w/stock set-up and it was still a bitch. At speed it's not that bad, but most definitely an overrated experience. There are simply no gains to be had.
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I just finished reconnecting my power steering, and man do I agree with that. It's a whole different car now, I could barely turn the wheel before.
On the first drive I was sitting in my car laughing at how crazy fast the steering is now!
It's unbelievable. I definitely recommend the Z3 rack.
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Alpinweiss II 88 325is | M20 | 5 Lug Conversion
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Kyle
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So how horrendous is the bump steer supposed to be after this swap is done? I did align (string method, did the same when I put my tie rod spacers in and it turned out fine) here's what I did:
1. e46 shafts cut to length
2. z3 rack, it's something under 3 turns lock to lock
3. Used approximately 50mm of washers on top of the rack as a spacer (rough measurement of the height difference between the two racks)
4. IE camber plates (the ones with the urethane)
5. IE delrin CABs
6. e46 lower control arms
7. Stock e30 tie rods
Still haven't finished the PS bracket and lines, so it was unassisted at the time I did my shakedown. Camber is set to max positive (still probably -1.5 to -2* or so)
It's got a very, very slight pull but otherwise drives fairly straight, so either the toe is a bit off or the camber is a bit off. Regardless, as long as the road is smooth I'm good... but as soon as I touch a pebble on the road it's almost as if the car tries to throw me into the nearest tree. Is this something that'll get better once the PS is installed and running? Because it didn't seem to make much of a difference with the e30 rack, though that was progressive, not linear.
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Originally posted by jalopi View PostSo how horrendous is the bump steer supposed to be after this swap is done? I did align (string method, did the same when I put my tie rod spacers in and it turned out fine) here's what I did:
1. e46 shafts cut to length
2. z3 rack, it's something under 3 turns lock to lock
3. Used approximately 50mm of washers on top of the rack as a spacer (rough measurement of the height difference between the two racks)
4. IE camber plates (the ones with the urethane)
5. IE delrin CABs
6. e46 lower control arms
7. Stock e30 tie rods
Still haven't finished the PS bracket and lines, so it was unassisted at the time I did my shakedown. Camber is set to max positive (still probably -1.5 to -2* or so)
It's got a very, very slight pull but otherwise drives fairly straight, so either the toe is a bit off or the camber is a bit off. Regardless, as long as the road is smooth I'm good... but as soon as I touch a pebble on the road it's almost as if the car tries to throw me into the nearest tree. Is this something that'll get better once the PS is installed and running? Because it didn't seem to make much of a difference with the e30 rack, though that was progressive, not linear.
Bump steer does feel more pronounced without the ps hooked up. Also, sounds like you placed the washers/spacers on top of the rack. To most minimize bump steer you'd want them on the bottom (moving rack upward). Having said that, I can't imagine 1.5-2 inches is going to make a world of difference...
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I could swear there's a post somewhere in this thread about some dude that put his car on an alignment rack so he could see the toe change as the suspension was loaded up. He said it was getting roughly 1.5* of toe changes when the spacers were on the bottom, and less than .5* with the spacers up top.
However, that was just one post - I'm assuming it isn't too bad for you with the spacers on the bottom? I guess I can give it a try, not exactly hard to change the spacer location.
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