You have asked this question in a few places, the answer is no. It worked for many people. If you are fearful of it, on a case by case basis, replace it.. your car.
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How To Guide - E36 Steering Rack Swap
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Originally posted by noahsense View PostI said knuckle but I really meant flex disc/joint! Around $100 so not cheap but worth doing while everything is apart since getting it off can be a god awful pain.
I got a used one from a used BMW parts specialist outside Toronto for $50. It was a nice clean unit.
Getting out the old one was a bit of a pain. I would have done the engine lift thing, but didn't have one, so I did the bend-the-steering-rack-tab thing. It worked out pretty well after that.Estoguy
1986 BMW 325, Alpenweiss ~ "Elsa"
Need a photographer, come visit my site: http://estoguy.wix.com/unique-perspectives
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Originally posted by TimeMachinE30 View PostYou have asked this question in a few places, the answer is no. It worked for many people. If you are fearful of it, on a case by case basis, replace it.. your car.
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Originally posted by marcusw View PostThanks, I needed to confirm cause I already have my e30 hoses ordered and it would be a hassle to reorder e36 ones.
You'll find that this is a really sturdy part. I'm a skinny dude so I had to clamp it in a vise (w/ soft jaws or wood) and put some weight into it. Remember, adjust, test fit, repeat.
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Yep just modify the firewall, here's a good write-up http://www.rmeuropean.com/bmw-e30-steering.aspx
My post with a few other sources, I went with an E46 M3 rack but same things apply to all airbag cars and rack swaps.
Sent from my MI 4LTE using TapatalkLast edited by djmossm42; 01-16-2016, 02:49 PM.
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Speaking of knuckles...
Can't get the steering knuckle loose from the steering column shaft. It's been two 5-6 hour days soaking with PB Blaster, spreading the clamp end gap wide as possible, prybar between knuckle and firewall. Don't want to pry TOO hard that way though.
Maybe heat?
Search failed to uncover solutions.
Advice?
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heat will certainly help! try to get a chisel in there so you can spread the knuckle apart. when in doubt heat it out lol...IG: deniso_nsi Leave me feedback here
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Originally posted by dude8383 View Postheat will certainly help! try to get a chisel in there so you can spread the knuckle apart. when in doubt heat it out lol...Originally posted by bumada View PostTry a slide hammer as well.
car I could get a good whack on it with the small sledge. Just needed to spread that crack open a bit more...;D
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Hey everyone,
I've been working on an e36 rack swap for my 91' 318 with an airbag steering shaft. In order to get everything to work properly, I had to trim a bit of the firewall like most people. Modifying the firewall plate is a must if you keep the rack positioned with spacers on top (24v swap w/ e34 pan is too close & doesn't have enough room for any other positioning). Boring out the stock plate can work in some cases, but the boot gets a bit stretched with the enlarged opening, and the stock plate isn't left with much meat on one side for my liking. This is what led to making a new plate.
To help others down the line, here's some rough dimensions of the new plate that my friends were kind enough to help make. Each car is different, but a new plate allows you to keep the stock boot functioning/sealing properly. Essentially the opening is moved 10-15mm down and to the right (while looking from the driver's footwell). The new plate is a little longer on the bottom so it covers the enlarged firewall opening. I did have to put some grease in the boot/shaft area since the shaft would rub on one side of the rubber, creating an annoying squeaking noise. Otherwise it works well. Add a lick of paint and nobody will even know it's there!
-Joey
Last edited by mtech325; 07-04-2016, 10:28 PM.
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Did anybody have to file down that first knuckle from the firewall? The knuckle was catching on itself as it spun.
EDIT: Oops, I guess it was covered on step 25.
Sent from my SM-G935V using TapatalkLast edited by bumada; 08-05-2016, 04:24 AM.1989 325i S50 swapped
2007 4Runner Sport V8
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So I finished the rack swap and ground down the knuckle from binding, then had it aligned. It pulls to the right pretty darn bad. The guy who aligned it asked if I centered the rack before install. The rack was rebuilt by Rack Doctor (reg E36 with new inner and outer tie rods) and looked to be centered when I got it. I measured the length of the old rack and used that length when installed the new rack.
Would it be possible that off-center rack would cause it to pull to one side? Aligned to E30 M3 spec of 0"-1/16" total toe.
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