BMW E30 -> E36 Steering Rack Swap
This guide was created to explain how to swap an E36, E36 M3, and/or E36 Z3 steering rack into
an E30. I do not consider this to be the only method to accomplish this swap so if you have suggestions please post them.
Edits and Follow up notes looking back: I created this thread many years ago when I first started wrenching, now that I'm older I have revised a few notes but not the pictures because, well.. it helps me remember how far I've come over the years. I have done my best to preserve the original photos over the many updates that R3v has been through over the years but I fear a few are permanently lost. Luckily enough exist to help you still get the general idea.
Most importantly I want readers to know the importance of using fresh seals, hardware, and a new reservoir because it is also the filter for the power steering system. There are now a number of kits that you can buy to modify your steering knuckle and I honestly do not have a preference. Just be sure whatever you install is safe and secure. More than anything I am glad that this thread has helped many of you and appreciate everyone that has chimed in to help improve this process over the years. Thank you!
A special thanks to my friend Josh (HST) for helping out.
The Parts You Need: - Quoted from BMAParts.com
Item - BMW Part Number - Qty - Price
7/16 Bolt 2 Inches Long - - xxxxxxxxxxxx - - - - -x2 - - -$???
Bolt M10x50 - - - - - - - - - 26111226737 - - - - x2 - - -$2.70
Self Locking Nuts - - - - - - 07129964672 - - - - x2 - - -$0.60
Copper Seals 14x20 - - - - -32411093596 - - - - -x4 - - -$0.68
Copper Seals 16x22 - - - - -32411093597 - - - - -x4 - - -$1.04
Self Locking Nuts - - - - - - 07129922716 - - - - -x4 - - $1.20
Power Steering Res. - - - - -32411097164 - - - - x1 - - -$19.50
High Pres. PS Hose - - - - - 32411141953 - - - - -x1 - - -$74.00
Spacer - - - - - - - - - - - -72118119268 - - - - -x1 - - -$2.05
Spacer - - - - - - - - - - - -72111847480 - - - - -x2 - - -$1.92
Nut - - - - - - - - - - - - - -72111977925 - - - - -x2 - - -$1.10
LP PS Return Hoses - - - - - xxxxxxxxxxx - - - - - x2 - - -$14.50
Bottle of ATF - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -x1 - - -$2.50
Tacos - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -- - - - - - -x3 - - -$2.75
Steering Racks
92-98 E36 3.2 Turn to Lock Ratio Rack - Ebay - Tom's FAP - $125.00
92-98 E36 3.2 Turn to Lock Ratio Rack - Maval Rebuilt - $270.13
95 E36 M3 3.0 Turn to Lock Ratio Rack - Maval Rebuilt - $270.13
95-97 E36 Z3 1.9L 2.7 Turn to Lock Ratio Rack - Maval Rebuilt - $317.59
Steering Racks Purchased from BMA have a $150 Core Charge.
Total Cost = $256.57 - $449.16
The Tools You Need
3/8 Ratchet
1/2 Ratchet
3/8 Sockets = 10mm, 13mm, 15mm, 17mm, 19mm, 22mm
1/2 Sockets = 17mm, 19mm, 22mm
Open End Wrenches = 13mm, 15mm, 17mm, 19mm
Hammer & Wooden Block
Vice Grips
Flat Head Screw Driver
Table Vice
Tape Measure
Hydraulic Jack & 2 Jack Stands
Dremel
Getting the Job Done
Step 1: Jack up the vehicle and set it on jack stands.
Step 2: Remove both front wheels from the car.
Step 3: Turn your steering wheel all the way to each side and remove the tie rod ends from the strut.
NOTE: Use a jack to raise the strut up on the control arm ball joint and then use a hammer and a block of wood to knock the tie rod end out of the strut. See Pic.
Step 4: Remove the old tie rod boots using a flat head screw driver to pry the boot clamps loose.
NOTE: This is what a rack will look like when it finally takes a shit.
Step 5: Bend the tie rod locking plates off of the inner tie rod
Step 6: Remove the inner tie rods from the steering rack using the vice grips, 32mm wrench, or Pipe Wrench.
Step 7: Drain the power steering fluid from the PS reservoir with a fluid evac tool or drain from by disconnecting the low pressure suction hose at the pump.
Step 8: Disconnect all power steering hoses from the PS pump and the steering rack.
x2 19mm Banjo Bolts & x2 22mm Banjo Bolts
NOTE: KEEP ALL BANJO BOLTS REMOVED FROM THE STEERING RACK AND THE PS PUMP!
Step 9: Remove the PS Reservoir by loosening the 13mm bolt shown below. Then remove the low pressure lines and save the hose ends for the new low pressure hoses.
Removing the PS Res. with the bracket makes it easier to remove and loosen the 10mm bolt that clamps it in place.
Step 10: Loosen the 13mm bolts that hold the steering knuckle in place.
Step 11: Unbolt steering rack from the subframe by loosening the 15mm bolts holding it in place.
Step 12: Carefully bend back the lower tabs on the subframe that support the bottom part of the steering rack.
(Note: Yes, this is a cheap shade tree hack and technically you should drop the subframe for clearance, but this method works great provided you do not have a rusty old subframe. If so, then its best to replace the front subframe and rack together.)
Step 13: Drop the old steering rack from the steering knuckle.
Step 14: Remove the steering knuckle from the steering column spline.
NOTE: Using a flat head screw driver helps to open the knuckle at the spline to make it drop. See Picture Below.
Step 15: Eat some tacos and drink some beer!
Step 16: Using a Dremel (or anything much better) - Grind down the rivets that hold the steering knuckle together and pop them out to separate the two pieces.
Step 17: Using a Dremel w/ cutting blade - Cut the aluminum spacer in half.
Step 18: Use the 7/16 - 2 Inch Bolts & Spacer Halves to shorten the length of the steering knuckle U-joint. Make sure to put Loctite on the bolt threads to make sure the knuckle does not come apart.
NOTE: Use washers to make both sides even it needed.
Step 19: Tighten the bolts together and test the knuckle for any play. This is what the finished product should resemble.
Step 20: Tap the knuckle onto the steering column spline and tighten the 13mm bolt to secure it.
Step 21: Use a wrench to try and make the rack as even as possible. Use a tape measure to ensure both sides of the rack are even.
Step 22: Line the steering wheel up straight and lock it in place. Slowly push the new rack onto the bottom of the knuckle. Once in place tighten the 13mm bolt to secure it.
NOTE: This step may take some time. Be patient and rock the rack while pushing. This is somewhat like stabbing transmission back onto an engine. Here is a picture of the finished product.
Step 23: Tap the lower tabs on the subframe to bend them back into place.
Step 24: Line the holes up on the steering rack with the holes in the subframe. Place your short spacers and bolt the rack into place.
Step 25: Unlock the steering wheel and turn it to check for any binding.
NOTE: If there is some slight binding in the knuckle use a Dremel with a grinding bit to grind out some of the joint. Keep checking the wheel until there is not sign of binding in the steering wheel.
Step 26: Using your hands, bend the high pressure PS line to make it match up with the new steering rack then temporarily bolt it in place.
NOTE: The line to the rack requires very little bending to match up with the rack.
Step 27: Take notes of what bends are needed to match the hose up with the PS Pump. Use a vice or pipe bender to make the appropriate bends.
NOTE: This will take a few tries. Be sure not to bend the metal line at too much of an angle if using a bench vice or you could damage it.
Step 28: Place your new copper crush washers on the appropriate banjo bolts and bolt down the high pressure PS hose to the rack and PS pump. Torque to ~26ft lb and be careful not to over torque.
Step 29: Install the low pressure hose ends in the new hoses and clamp them in place. Then attach them to the new PS reservoir.
Step 30: Install the new PS reservoir into the engine bay.
Step 31: Bolt up the new suction and return low pressure PS hoses to the steering rack and PS pump.
Step 32: Fill the PS reservoir with ATF. Start the car and turn the wheel to both sides a few times to circulate the new fluid. Check for leakage and add more fluid when needed.
Step 33: Reinstall the tie rod ends with new locking plates, and don't forget to install a solid set of tie rod boots.
You can use zip ties to seat and seal the boots at both ends if you do not have new metal clamps. What's important here is that your new rack ends are sealed up well to avoid contamination from the elements.
Inner Tie Rods should be torqued to ~40 - 47ft lb
Outer Tie Rod end nuts should be torqued to ~ 31 - 42ft lb
Step 34: Bolt your wheels back on (be sure to properly torque them to ~80ft lb), lower the car off the jack stands, and take for a test drive.
This guide was created to explain how to swap an E36, E36 M3, and/or E36 Z3 steering rack into
an E30. I do not consider this to be the only method to accomplish this swap so if you have suggestions please post them.
Edits and Follow up notes looking back: I created this thread many years ago when I first started wrenching, now that I'm older I have revised a few notes but not the pictures because, well.. it helps me remember how far I've come over the years. I have done my best to preserve the original photos over the many updates that R3v has been through over the years but I fear a few are permanently lost. Luckily enough exist to help you still get the general idea.
Most importantly I want readers to know the importance of using fresh seals, hardware, and a new reservoir because it is also the filter for the power steering system. There are now a number of kits that you can buy to modify your steering knuckle and I honestly do not have a preference. Just be sure whatever you install is safe and secure. More than anything I am glad that this thread has helped many of you and appreciate everyone that has chimed in to help improve this process over the years. Thank you!
A special thanks to my friend Josh (HST) for helping out.
The Parts You Need: - Quoted from BMAParts.com
Item - BMW Part Number - Qty - Price
7/16 Bolt 2 Inches Long - - xxxxxxxxxxxx - - - - -x2 - - -$???
Bolt M10x50 - - - - - - - - - 26111226737 - - - - x2 - - -$2.70
Self Locking Nuts - - - - - - 07129964672 - - - - x2 - - -$0.60
Copper Seals 14x20 - - - - -32411093596 - - - - -x4 - - -$0.68
Copper Seals 16x22 - - - - -32411093597 - - - - -x4 - - -$1.04
Self Locking Nuts - - - - - - 07129922716 - - - - -x4 - - $1.20
Power Steering Res. - - - - -32411097164 - - - - x1 - - -$19.50
High Pres. PS Hose - - - - - 32411141953 - - - - -x1 - - -$74.00
Spacer - - - - - - - - - - - -72118119268 - - - - -x1 - - -$2.05
Spacer - - - - - - - - - - - -72111847480 - - - - -x2 - - -$1.92
Nut - - - - - - - - - - - - - -72111977925 - - - - -x2 - - -$1.10
LP PS Return Hoses - - - - - xxxxxxxxxxx - - - - - x2 - - -$14.50
Bottle of ATF - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -x1 - - -$2.50
Tacos - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -- - - - - - -x3 - - -$2.75
Steering Racks
92-98 E36 3.2 Turn to Lock Ratio Rack - Ebay - Tom's FAP - $125.00
92-98 E36 3.2 Turn to Lock Ratio Rack - Maval Rebuilt - $270.13
95 E36 M3 3.0 Turn to Lock Ratio Rack - Maval Rebuilt - $270.13
95-97 E36 Z3 1.9L 2.7 Turn to Lock Ratio Rack - Maval Rebuilt - $317.59
Steering Racks Purchased from BMA have a $150 Core Charge.
Total Cost = $256.57 - $449.16
The Tools You Need
3/8 Ratchet
1/2 Ratchet
3/8 Sockets = 10mm, 13mm, 15mm, 17mm, 19mm, 22mm
1/2 Sockets = 17mm, 19mm, 22mm
Open End Wrenches = 13mm, 15mm, 17mm, 19mm
Hammer & Wooden Block
Vice Grips
Flat Head Screw Driver
Table Vice
Tape Measure
Hydraulic Jack & 2 Jack Stands
Dremel
Getting the Job Done
Step 1: Jack up the vehicle and set it on jack stands.
Step 2: Remove both front wheels from the car.
Step 3: Turn your steering wheel all the way to each side and remove the tie rod ends from the strut.
NOTE: Use a jack to raise the strut up on the control arm ball joint and then use a hammer and a block of wood to knock the tie rod end out of the strut. See Pic.
Step 4: Remove the old tie rod boots using a flat head screw driver to pry the boot clamps loose.
NOTE: This is what a rack will look like when it finally takes a shit.
Step 5: Bend the tie rod locking plates off of the inner tie rod
Step 6: Remove the inner tie rods from the steering rack using the vice grips, 32mm wrench, or Pipe Wrench.
Step 7: Drain the power steering fluid from the PS reservoir with a fluid evac tool or drain from by disconnecting the low pressure suction hose at the pump.
Step 8: Disconnect all power steering hoses from the PS pump and the steering rack.
x2 19mm Banjo Bolts & x2 22mm Banjo Bolts
NOTE: KEEP ALL BANJO BOLTS REMOVED FROM THE STEERING RACK AND THE PS PUMP!
Step 9: Remove the PS Reservoir by loosening the 13mm bolt shown below. Then remove the low pressure lines and save the hose ends for the new low pressure hoses.
Removing the PS Res. with the bracket makes it easier to remove and loosen the 10mm bolt that clamps it in place.
Step 10: Loosen the 13mm bolts that hold the steering knuckle in place.
Step 11: Unbolt steering rack from the subframe by loosening the 15mm bolts holding it in place.
Step 12: Carefully bend back the lower tabs on the subframe that support the bottom part of the steering rack.
(Note: Yes, this is a cheap shade tree hack and technically you should drop the subframe for clearance, but this method works great provided you do not have a rusty old subframe. If so, then its best to replace the front subframe and rack together.)
Step 13: Drop the old steering rack from the steering knuckle.
Step 14: Remove the steering knuckle from the steering column spline.
NOTE: Using a flat head screw driver helps to open the knuckle at the spline to make it drop. See Picture Below.
Step 15: Eat some tacos and drink some beer!
Step 16: Using a Dremel (or anything much better) - Grind down the rivets that hold the steering knuckle together and pop them out to separate the two pieces.
Step 17: Using a Dremel w/ cutting blade - Cut the aluminum spacer in half.
Step 18: Use the 7/16 - 2 Inch Bolts & Spacer Halves to shorten the length of the steering knuckle U-joint. Make sure to put Loctite on the bolt threads to make sure the knuckle does not come apart.
NOTE: Use washers to make both sides even it needed.
Step 19: Tighten the bolts together and test the knuckle for any play. This is what the finished product should resemble.
Step 20: Tap the knuckle onto the steering column spline and tighten the 13mm bolt to secure it.
Step 21: Use a wrench to try and make the rack as even as possible. Use a tape measure to ensure both sides of the rack are even.
Step 22: Line the steering wheel up straight and lock it in place. Slowly push the new rack onto the bottom of the knuckle. Once in place tighten the 13mm bolt to secure it.
NOTE: This step may take some time. Be patient and rock the rack while pushing. This is somewhat like stabbing transmission back onto an engine. Here is a picture of the finished product.
Step 23: Tap the lower tabs on the subframe to bend them back into place.
Step 24: Line the holes up on the steering rack with the holes in the subframe. Place your short spacers and bolt the rack into place.
Step 25: Unlock the steering wheel and turn it to check for any binding.
NOTE: If there is some slight binding in the knuckle use a Dremel with a grinding bit to grind out some of the joint. Keep checking the wheel until there is not sign of binding in the steering wheel.
Step 26: Using your hands, bend the high pressure PS line to make it match up with the new steering rack then temporarily bolt it in place.
NOTE: The line to the rack requires very little bending to match up with the rack.
Step 27: Take notes of what bends are needed to match the hose up with the PS Pump. Use a vice or pipe bender to make the appropriate bends.
NOTE: This will take a few tries. Be sure not to bend the metal line at too much of an angle if using a bench vice or you could damage it.
Step 28: Place your new copper crush washers on the appropriate banjo bolts and bolt down the high pressure PS hose to the rack and PS pump. Torque to ~26ft lb and be careful not to over torque.
Step 29: Install the low pressure hose ends in the new hoses and clamp them in place. Then attach them to the new PS reservoir.
Step 30: Install the new PS reservoir into the engine bay.
Step 31: Bolt up the new suction and return low pressure PS hoses to the steering rack and PS pump.
Step 32: Fill the PS reservoir with ATF. Start the car and turn the wheel to both sides a few times to circulate the new fluid. Check for leakage and add more fluid when needed.
Step 33: Reinstall the tie rod ends with new locking plates, and don't forget to install a solid set of tie rod boots.
You can use zip ties to seat and seal the boots at both ends if you do not have new metal clamps. What's important here is that your new rack ends are sealed up well to avoid contamination from the elements.
Inner Tie Rods should be torqued to ~40 - 47ft lb
Outer Tie Rod end nuts should be torqued to ~ 31 - 42ft lb
Step 34: Bolt your wheels back on (be sure to properly torque them to ~80ft lb), lower the car off the jack stands, and take for a test drive.
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