Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

DIY: Polishing your trim

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    DIY: Polishing your trim

    THIS REMOVES THE PROTECTIVE LAYER AND YOU WILL NEED TO RE-POLISH THE TRIM A FEW TIMES THROUGH OUT THE YEAR TO KEEP IT MIRROR LIKE!!!

    All Pictures were taken with a iPotato, so the shine looks better in person.

    This takes a very long time to do! Now if you want to proceed you can. In this guide I will be stripping the coating off the trim and polishing it to a mirror like shine. It took 2 hours to do this rain gutter trim piece.

    Supplies:


    This is what I used. 80,180,400,800,1200,2000 grit sand papers. The 1200 and 2000 are wet sand paper. Bush Aluminum polish and Mothers Billet polish. I have a 6" DA and a 3" mini buffer with a foam waffle pad.

    Before:


    Step 1: Remove whatever the finish is thats on them with 80 grit. You can see the difference as you go. On the left is with the finish on, on the right is the finish sanded off. Continue doing the whole piece from one end to the other.



    Step 2: Use 180 grit to get the marks out from the 80 grit. Make sure you inspect the piece of trim very closely to make sure all the 80 grit marks are out.

    Step 3: Do the same with 400 grit.

    Step 4: Same thing with 800 grit.

    Step 5: This step is important. Wet sand with 1200 back and forth in the same direction. When done look over the whole piece very carefully and make sure you see no 800 or less grit sand marks. It will be easy to see them and you can touch them up now and it wont be hard. This is what the marks look like for me.



    Step 6: Wet sand with 2000 grit in a different direction thats perpendicular to the way you sanded with the 1200 grit, so its easy to tell when you sanded far enough.

    Step 7: Use the mini buffer and Busch aluminum polish and go to town on the trim. It should only take a few passes to make it shine nicely. Wipe off the polish and move onto the next section. You might notice it has a blue haze to it now but is relatively shine. This might be good enough for some, but not me.



    Step 8: Put on the latex glove and use the mothers billet polish and rub it back and forth until it turns black then wipe it off with a new cloth. After a few swipes it should be haze free and hopefully no sand marks. If there are sanding marks, go back to step 5 and try again.

    Step 9: Wipe it down with another new cloth and this is the end result.





    This is the piece that goes on the window vents (rear windows on a 2 door)

    Last edited by 88BlackS-ETA; 07-01-2017, 02:25 PM.


    Feedback Thread

    #2
    Damn! If I weren't going oem shadowline Id definitely do this. Nice write up!

    Comment


      #3
      Considering doing this as my trim has quite a few scuffs and scratches. Anyone know if a clearcoat on top would protect it with a new finish and make it so you don't have to re-polish constantly?

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by The Real e30 View Post
        Considering doing this as my trim has quite a few scuffs and scratches. Anyone know if a clearcoat on top would protect it with a new finish and make it so you don't have to re-polish constantly?
        it would be hard to get clear to stick to it if it's polished.

        1989 Coupe build thread: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=312012
        IG: @mitchlikesbikes

        Comment


          #5
          these are actually anodized and clear coated from the factory, so doing this is taking those layers off and polishing the raw ally.. dare say would need some sort of adhesion promoter if putting clear back over it again.

          I should of done this instead of buying new ones.. oh well.
          Boris - 89 E30 325i
          84- E30 323i

          Comment


            #6
            Right, they had to get the finish on and sticking somehow, so I'm trying to figure out what will work to replicate that.

            Originally posted by bangn View Post
            these are actually anodized and clear coated from the factory, so doing this is taking those layers off and polishing the raw ally.. dare say would need some sort of adhesion promoter if putting clear back over it again.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by The Real e30 View Post
              Right, they had to get the finish on and sticking somehow, so I'm trying to figure out what will work to replicate that.
              you'll have to anodize to mimic the factory finish and durability.

              1989 Coupe build thread: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=312012
              IG: @mitchlikesbikes

              Comment


                #8
                what ever you do don't bend one of those. Once they are tweaked or dented/bent its over... I know because I polished one side of mine a few years back and accidentally put a small dent in it while removing them from the car. Just be super careful..

                That reminds me, my car has polished trim on one side and shadowilne on the other lol. Luckily it just sits in storage..

                Flickr

                @michael.colby on Instagram


                "All he needed was a wheel in his hand and four on the road"

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by mitchlikesbikes View Post
                  you'll have to anodize to mimic the factory finish and durability.
                  That can be a challenge if you and your anodizer are not on the same page.
                  ADAMS Autosport

                  Comment

                  Working...
                  X