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    Originally posted by blueapplesoda View Post
    Because it comes with that riser cup, it's by far the best shifter for the money. BTW that cup makes a world of difference for those used to the super notchy feeling of the super short shifters.

    the notch is exactly what im trying to avoid! i want short SMOOVE shifts.. ;)

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      Does anyone know if an oem shift lever from a 335i would work in a 318is?
      Last edited by ZJP; 12-13-2008, 10:29 AM.
      WTB: '89-'91 5spd 318is/325is in Tri State area.

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        Originally posted by robspeed325i View Post
        the notch is exactly what im trying to avoid! i want short SMOOVE shifts.. ;)
        If you want smooth shifts just replace the shift lever without replacing all of the bushings in the system. Unless your stock linkage is excessively sloppy, replacement of the bushings isnt necessary. My 318is with the stock linkage at 140k felt great with no excessive play, so I just replaced the shift lever. It is much more smooth than my eta, which got all new bushings. Both have Z3 M coupe shifters.

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          Originally posted by ZJP View Post
          Does anyone know if an oem shift lever from a 335i would work in a 318is?
          Probably would, you can use the shifter from pretty much any manual BMW up to the E46 at least. I havent seen the E9x shift lever, but I'm sure it hasnt changed much if any.

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            Originally posted by rThor432 View Post
            Probably would, you can use the shifter from pretty much any manual BMW up to the E46 at least. I havent seen the E9x shift lever, but I'm sure it hasnt changed much if any.
            a pic for reference.

            WTB: '89-'91 5spd 318is/325is in Tri State area.

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              Yeah that's definitely usable. Not sure where the shifter would be located in the console (because of the odd bend) but it's got all the right parts.

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                Originally posted by rThor432 View Post
                Yeah that's definitely usable. Not sure where the shifter would be located in the console (because of the odd bend) but it's got all the right parts.
                Cool - thanks for clarifying that.

                I will post back the results after the installation.
                WTB: '89-'91 5spd 318is/325is in Tri State area.

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                  This may be a dumbquestion...but why not sue a premade short shifter like BnM ? or is there really that much of an advantage of using another OEM part(s)?
                  The 9mm is a .45 set on stun.:mrgreen:

                  Comment


                    ^^
                    The OEM part is basically the same thing as most aftermarket shifters (like B&M) except it is cheaper.

                    My Z3 M shifter is the same as my co-worker's B&M shifter, but cost something like $100 less.

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                      Originally posted by rThor432 View Post
                      ^^
                      The OEM part is basically the same thing as most aftermarket shifters (like B&M) except it is cheaper.

                      My Z3 M shifter is the same as my co-worker's B&M shifter, but cost something like $100 less.

                      not exactly the same thing, the B&M offers distinct advantages to the OEM route. the major one being the raised pivot point. this is the point of the el-cheapo B&M clone I bought....

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                        Alrighty, man, I want to go over a few things on this post. Too much misinformation!
                        Originally posted by rThor432 View Post
                        If you want smooth shifts just replace the shift lever without replacing all of the bushings in the system.
                        I do not quite understand how you would think that sloppy bushings equals smooth shifting, but think about it...if you change the lever, all you are gonna do is make short sloppy shifts. The "notchiness" was and is part of a Getrag 260 transmissions. They complained about it in all the magazines back in 1985, too. When I did the SSK on my car and replaced most of the bushings, it got LESS "notchy".
                        Originally posted by rThor432 View Post
                        Unless your stock linkage is excessively sloppy, replacement of the bushings isnt necessary.
                        Basically true. But show me a 20 year old M20 powered E30 with a non-sloppy shifter and I will show you one that has been rebuilt...
                        Originally posted by rThor432 View Post
                        My 318is with the stock linkage at 140k felt great with no excessive play, so I just replaced the shift lever. It is much more smooth than my eta, which got all new bushings. Both have Z3 M coupe shifters.
                        Yes, but that would be an entirely different transmission, see? The little motor got a little transmission, which makes sense..think about that too: the G240 is a much newer tranny with 10 years more development in...so yeah, they shift smoother.

                        Luke

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                          Originally posted by StereoInstaller1 View Post
                          Alrighty, man, I want to go over a few things on this post. Too much misinformation!I do not quite understand how you would think that sloppy bushings equals smooth shifting, but think about it...if you change the lever, all you are gonna do is make short sloppy shifts.
                          Well if the shifter feel is good before you change the shifter, there is no real need to replace the bushings, unless you want it to be more notchy. If the bushings are worn out to an unacceptable point where the shifter is excessively sloppy, then replacing the bushings is a no-brainer.

                          Of the last 3 E30's I have bought, one had an unacceptable shift feel. I replaced all of the bushings in that vehicle, and it is noticably more notchy than the other two, which have original bushings that arent trashed. Yes, most E30's I drive have completely shot bushings. But I havent had a problem with it for the most part.

                          It's not how I would do it, but if it is too notchy, that's the only way I can think of to reduce that.

                          Originally posted by StereoInstaller1 View Post
                          Basically true. But show me a 20 year old M20 powered E30 with a non-sloppy shifter and I will show you one that has been rebuilt...
                          1985 with perfect shift feel and no service to the shifting assembly.

                          Originally posted by StereoInstaller1 View Post
                          Yes, but that would be an entirely different transmission, see? The little motor got a little transmission, which makes sense..think about that too: the G240 is a much newer tranny with 10 years more development in...so yeah, they shift smoother.
                          Didnt M10 cars have 240 transmissions?

                          Anyway I see where you are coming from. I guess I should have said to lube everything up instead, but I just had a good experience with leaving everything as-is in a couple of vehicles. I was just sharing from my experience.

                          Comment


                            increased notchiness comes from moving the lower joint out of line of the back of the transmission, aka by installing a SSK. move the upper joint (the fulcrum ball) upwards to bring the shift rod back in line with the transmission selector shaft, and this fixes this. this is why UUC uses their "ERK" and B&M has their pivot-raising blue cup...

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                              I just browsed through the entire thread and have not noticed anyone using an E36 shifter. Has anyone tried using one? There are two 325i manuals in my local boneyard.

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                                grab it and take a photo. Not like its going to be that expensive.

                                I have an E36 M3 shift lever, not sure if it's different from the regular one.
                                '74 2002 - Build blog at
                                nomads2002.blogspot.com

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