6 months ago I put in Z4 shifter...today I noticed it goes slightly up and down when I pull the knob up? Is this normal?
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Originally posted by cro320 View Post6 months ago I put in Z4 shifter...today I noticed it goes slightly up and down when I pull the knob up? Is this normal?1989 325is / 2.7, 274 cam, e30 M3 5-lug
1989 LN106 Hilux / 3.0TD SFA
1974 2002tii / stock
2002 IS300 / 5spd LSD
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If everything is moving it's probably the rear carrier bracket/bushing. Still, stock bushings will have tolerances in them.
I'm annoyed because after replacing EVERY linkage bushing, I have the same play as before. Looks like it's originating from the new tjoint. I even tried solid washers, but it's still sloppy.1989 325is / 2.7, 274 cam, e30 M3 5-lug
1989 LN106 Hilux / 3.0TD SFA
1974 2002tii / stock
2002 IS300 / 5spd LSD
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Originally posted by mkcman17 View PostIf everything is moving it's probably the rear carrier bracket/bushing. Still, stock bushings will have tolerances in them.
I'm annoyed because after replacing EVERY linkage bushing, I have the same play as before. Looks like it's originating from the new tjoint. I even tried solid washers, but it's still sloppy.
I replaced lever with Z4 2.5 and all the bushes but rear carrier was fine...I drove the car today, you can't feel that up n down movement while shifting, so probably I will leave it as it is.
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So I was in the process of replacing all of my shift bushings on my 85 325e and ive hit a snag at the ball cup bushing for the shift arm. This is a two piece bushing because I have the pre 86 shifter set up where instead of an aluminum carrier rod I have a steel plate for the carrier. My problem is that the too half of the ballcup bushing wont fit of the new e36m shift arm on either side. I even tried to test go it on the old arm and it wouldn't and the only reason the old one slipped off it is because it was cracked. I had the idea of sanding the inside of the bushing slightly so that it would fit but I wanted to know if that would mess everything up. Any advice/help would be much appreciated
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Originally posted by cro320 View PostRecent Rebranding!!
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Originally posted by cro320 View Post
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Add me to the list of people running the x5 lever. (or soon to be)
Installed in the car yesterday, but I haven't bled the clutch lines yet so it's a bit annoying to try and get it into gear. Overall feels real good, comparing it to a stock lever and a z3m this is my preference already. I did have to bend the lever to reduce some of the kink it has from the factory, I reduced the angle to be more along the lines of the z3 lever.
1990 332i, 4 door
2008 KTM 990 Superduke
2018 Golf R, 6spd manual (Pending delivery)
2017 Mazda CX-5 GT
2007 Z4M Coupe - Sold to very nice people
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Originally posted by cro320 View Post
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I put the Ireland engineering SSK in a few months ago with a ZHP shift knob. Love it. Notchy, short, but not difficult. IMO it's the perfect DD setup. Gotta be careful though, they sent me the wrong cup bushing for my 84 Eta. They did send me the right part (two little plastic rings) for free, which I had to cut with a razor then epoxy back together. Kindof a pain, but not really. Honestly, I love the feel, but it leans a little more to the front right than stock, which I've gotten over./______\_o_/______\
l{(OO)=[//][\\]=(OO)}|
\ #___======___# /
|__/-------------\__|
"Took me an hour to do this..."
took me like three seconds to copy/paste it- FOR SCIENCE!!
Barney Fucking Rubble
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I know it's an old post, but it's also arguably one of the most informative in this thread - just a couple of Q's;
Originally posted by iwantspeed View Post
Rear carrier bushing and bracket
PART number 25111220707
cost 27.50
pelicanparts wants $58 for this bracket (!!) - anyone know where else I could source one from at half the price, like stated above?
Originally posted by iwantspeed View Post
Instead of using the yellow spacer rings
part number 25 11 1 220 439
You need 4 washers
I have read that some people recommend a brass or steel washer instead of the yellow ones because
A, It tightens up the feel.
B, It won't degrade over time.
C, you can take the old yellow ones out and go to a hardware store and find ones that are the same thickness and similar diameter and done deal.
D, if anyone knows the outer diameter and inner diameter and the thickness, post up
I can't seem to find much more info on this elsewhere, and I would've thought that if metal washers were in fact a superior option, BMW wouldn't have bothered going for the yellow ones in the first place...
...unless it would make for a potential seizing issue
Originally posted by iwantspeed View PostI hope this information has been helpful to all.
As the 40+page is a lot to get through. I tried to condense some of the part numbers and tips all into one post, as best as I could.
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